Im sure ur right, but it spins the wheels still in first, so it must be hooking OK
Can a Hydraulic Clutch be adjuted, cause I didnt know It had a hydralic clutch
+1 Does temperature affect how badly it slips?
I think it does, I’ve had the car for 2 days so I really dont notice it much, I’ll try it warm and cold, But I basicly think that that in high gear any time is slipps.
But why is 1st Still so strong
i think the only adustment on a hydro clutch is where the pedal engages…atleast that is all my adjsuter does behind the pedal
At this point what I’m at the limit of my knowledge. Someone with more experience troubleshooting hydraulic clutches can come in and tell you if there’s a chance that the slave cylinder or something has stuck and is preventing the clutch from fully disengaging, although I’d start price shopping for a new clutch in the mean time.
it sounds like your only options are IF there is an adjuster for where the pedal engages on the back of the pedal…or maybe your low on hydraulic fluid for the clutch, that or there is air in the line and you need to bleed the line. if all that doesnt help, then the clutch is on its way out. i have a BRAND NEW stage 3 clutch in my focus, and its hydro…and the catch point on this clutch is further out on the pedal than it was on the OEM clutch. and i know its not blown…so try the pedal first. check on a stealth specific forum how to do it
ide say bleed the clutch, then adjust
The hydraulic clutch on my Fiero had zero adustment. Either it was bled properly and it worked, or there was air in the lines and it wouldn’t disengage. There were no conditions that would result in the clutch slipping, other than a worn clutch. Maybe your car is different but I doubt it. Mechanically it’s a pretty simple device.
As for spinning in first, it could still be slipping. The last autocross I did before replacing my clutch I was spinning like crazy off the start, but on the drive home I could put it in 4th @ 40mph and floor it and watch it slip by watching the tach. I’m guessing it was slipping on the launch too, but just not enough to prevent the wheelspin.
Typically you will be placing more load on the clutch in higher gears which would make slipping more noticeable if it’s out of adjustment/toasted.
For example:
You floor it in 5th even though you have it floored and the car isn’t moving faster. The engine is still applying all of it’s power to the clutch even though you can’t feel it.
Where as in 1st gear when you try to apply full power the wheels will spin before the clutch sees a full load on it.
Most hydralic clutches don’t have an adjustment, however I’m not familiar with your particular car so unless there is some adjustment it’s not sounding too good.
could the power steering fluid got thrown onto the clutch?It was all over the place and perhaps it just needs a good cleaning
I dont know, Does any body know if that is possable ? and did u ever have a problome whit it, I’m gonna bleed it today and adjust the pedle and try it again
well the biggest prob is that I’m not famillar with it either,cause I’ve had it for 2 days, Im gonna try bleeding it
Is it Possable to get pwr steering fluid in a hydro clutch ? cause I Did have a line blow up multiple times.
do the 4th gear up a hill test…crusing speed in 4th and mass it when you go up a hill and if the rpms rev up fast then its safe to say you need a new clutch…
Is there a resivior for the fluid on the clutch ?
Even if it is Worn, which Im sure it is, there should be an adjustment for it just to tighten it up alittle
Nope. If either of those were true the clutch would have having problems disengaging, not engaging.
You have to remember what pressing in the clutch pedal is actually doing. When you push the pedal in the hydraulic ram moves and pushes the throwout bearing up against the clutch spring, releasing the tension on the clutch and allowing flywheel to slip against the clutch disk.
Anything you do to lessen the clutch pedal travel, like get air bubbles in a hyrdaulic line, or put too much play in a cable driven cluch, will only reduce how far you can push in that throwout bearing.
I suppose there is a very slim chance that the clutch slave or master is binding, not allowing the clutch arm to return all the way. That should be easy enough to verify though. Have someone sit in the car pumping the clutch pedal, find the arm that is moving, and make sure that when the clutch is all the way up the arm is fully releasing.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I’d be willing to bet you need a new clutch.
I think you have the wrong idea of how this works. It’s not like the caliper brakes on a bicycle where as the pads wear you tighten up the cable to allow them to bite better. It’s the exact opposite actually. The natural state of a clutch is like having the brake clamped on as tight as possible to the wheel. When you pull the lever, all you’re doing is releasing the brakes so the bike can roll. As the brakes wear, the spring that is keeping them clamped to the wheel will still keep them clamped, just like how the springs in a clutch keep it clamped to the flywheel. No matter how you would adjust the brake cable in my hypothetical bike brake, it would only all you to lessen your ability to release the brake, not allow it to bite more.