See my edit. Been there, done that. Not trying to be a dick, just trying to explain how it works so you’ll understand how to troubleshoot it.
the guy that i got it from said it had a new clutch
Well its got a fucked one now, and I didnt do it.
+1
Wait wait wait, lets back up:
-Clutch slips
-Hydraulic clutch
-Little to no resistance at the pedal until the lower half of travel
-Supposedly newer clutch
My money’s on a cylinder pushrod sticking halfway out, be it master or slave. Hence partial clutch engagement and resistance through only lower half of clutch pedal travel.
Brings up a few questions.
- Was he straight out lying.
- Did he resurface the flywheel?
2a. If yes, did he take too much off?
2b. If no, was it glazed from the previous clutch slipping, so now it will never grab right? - Did he put the actually disk on right? I have first hand knowledge that if you’re tired and rushing, and put the “flywheel side” away from the flywheel that it won’t work. I also have first hand knowledge that removing a tranny, clutch, and clutch and putting it all back together takes about 1/2 the time when you do it a 2nd time. I’ll never make that mistake again.
- Did something get in there and contaminate the clutch disk or flywheel (oil, power steering fluid etc).
Beat ya. 
The reason I said slim chance is how hard that clutch spring will push back on the arm. Have you ever tried to move one manually using just the arm sticking out of the trans? I physically could not move the one on the Fiero, and it was a pretty small stock clutch.
I knew I got a great idea from somewhere! 
Seriously though, I bet one of the pushrods is sticking so that at about the halfway point only the torsion return spring on the pedal is lifting the pedal. Hence the car driving as if the pedal is halfway down.
If that’s the case, don’t drive the car like that. If the clutch is still good, it won’t be for long. And for the love of God don’t verify that the clutch is grabbing well in first gear by spinning the tires when you have some sort of clutch problem.
Maybe if it’s on the pushrod at the pedal. The one at the clutch would have to be really stuck for the clutch spring not to push it back.
Again, easy to check just by looking at how the slave, master, and arm are all moving.
My money is still on the clutch.
the power steering fluid line blew off a few times so its soaked underneath there.That would be my guess
Well, it “should” be protected from oil just getting sprayed. When you drive in the rain your clutch doesn’t start slipping because it’s getting wet.
Generally you get contamination when something is leaking inside the trans not outside.
But, even if you did get some PS fluid in there, you’re probably still looking at a new clutch because the disk material will now be contaminated. Since it’s a porous material that makes up the contact point I doubt you can get the oil out properly.
Ok, one I dont see how in the hell pwr streeing fluid would get in there, and secondly this thread is kinda just me looking for a good exuse not to admit that the clutch is fucked, althought the fact that is is not fully disingaging could mean that the slave cylinder is not working properly, there is air in the system, or there is a huge lack of fluid, which is’nt giving enought prusssre to fully diengage the clutch, I tried to check the fluid, but i cant seem to find the master cylinder, the maual says it is right by the air intake hose but is Isnt, any input on this would be appeciated.
Thanks
I’m throwin up a new thread, with the new info
No. Go back and re-read the thread. The clutch not fully disengaging will make it difficult to shift, not make the clutch slip. Your clutch is slipping. Either the master cylinder is sticking, the slave cylinder is sticking, or the clutch is fully engaging but still slipping due to the friction plate being worn out or having some sort of contaminant on it.
Right but when ur foot is off the clutch, could’nt a lack of fluid or a bad slave cylinder cause it to not hold prussre and slip ? and how in the fuck would a contaminent get in there.
Nope, there’s a big ass diaphragm spring in the clutch that takes care of that. A clutch is engaged by default. You could literally rip out the pedal, master cylinder, slave cylinder, and all associated hoses and fluids and it would be fully engaged. The fluid and all the other stuff connected to your foot is just there for when you want to disengage the clutch.
So could that spring be manuly Adjusted ? even if it is worn.
My father told me he had to have the clutch on his honda accord Adjusted, could this be done on a hydarlic ?
there is no way to “adjust” the spring
if the clutch is slipping when u step on the gas, then u need a new clutch, plain and simple.
if ur finding that u have a lot of play in your pedal and that it is difficult to shift, then you need a new master and/or slave cylinder
oh and honda accords are hydraulic clutches and are adjustable on the pedal.
How about an old late 80’s accord, if not I’ll ask my dad what he is talking about