dude it was just a simple question, no hate
also freek, cams that make the car barely idle > cams that allow the car to idle well apparently lol
you f-bod boys are silly
Yeah people who mod cars to go fast are TOTALLY SILLY! Again i remind you that big boys with real cars are talking. If you ever have some interest in actually going fast then come back and until then GTFO of this thread with your useless BS.
WOW i got an infraction!
dude… beast is totally having a talk with you next time he works… srsly!
Keep posting BS and you will get another. <3
Sorry but I take racing and racing related threads serious. This is an automotive board and I want to provide the enthusiast an appealing place to discuss things like this. Not cater to someone who wants to poke fun at real cars that actually go fast. Keep any other issues to pm please. Thanks
:tup: the long arm of the law keeping things in line.
I’ll probably be in the 12’s all year but my lease is up in December. If I decide I’m not keeping it I will definitely be upping the shot at the end of the year.
I’ve never checked, but with the modifications on the Esprit, I’m quite certain it would be in the 12’s…not that I really care…
Think this year I will be more concerned with my 60-0 ability than vise versa. Rear discs on an unboosted brake system are tons more effective than a proportioned drum setup (fronts are Wilwood 4-piston).
I can get a nice mildly built '71 M-code 351 for fairly cheap, but I’m working on getting a place to house the rattletrap first 
I THINK I would be able to push my car into a 13.9999999999 … not really sure though.
bumpstick = camshaft. it’s not a name for a particular camshaft. it’s a term thats been used for a long time. Also a camshaft doesn’t have to become totally undriveable and idle like hell. my cam is a 232/230 580/580 on a 110. not even close to ideal for my setup. I’d like to add slightly more duration and up the lift to the 620 area so I can effectively use my high flowing heads/intake. also if i up the LSA (the 110 number) it will idle and be even more nitrous friendly. So I’m looking at doing something like a 236/236 .625/.625 on a 112 maybe a 114. That will barely move the powerband which will make my 3.73’s still very useful. The higher lift will get me the airflow this car deserves.
Another option would be to change the rocker ratio from 1.7 to 1.8 which would effectively bring my lift to about .615. Now that sounds all well and good but it change the valvetrain geometry and puts increased wear on parts. So a CAMSHAFT swap may be in order. Hopefully that spells it out Jam.
If I get the car back together this summer, I doubt I’ll run 10s right out of bag with all the changes I’m making, I need alot of fine tuning. But in the end I’m shooting for mid 10s N/A. My cam is built for the bottle, so we shell see, 264/267 .670/.688 114 lobe, plus I’m having my afr’s ported, changing some of exhaust around, changing to front K Member, Changing the tranny, etc… Hell I’ll be lucky to have it back together by July.
As fast as I can push it.
Stoopid broken DSM.
I voted 10’s if it gets unbroken.
I dont see 9’s coming to me unless i sack up and drop some money in the car. So ill stick with trying for low 10s if 9s come that would be cool. No real goal this year considering i was trying to sell it. O well will see what happens.
bump up zee bumpstick do zee el’ streetsweepeero
I herd zit lovz ze zpray :snky:
My cam is just a little bigger than stock… Low 11’s high 10’s this year would be sweet.
I’m hoping my car should runs deep 10’s na deep 9’s on the bottle, but I probably won’t run it at the track at all. Not enough cage.
Should be somewhere in the range of 2800 lbs and 600whp na maybe 850whp :snky:.
wait youre going slower this year?
theres a chance I’ll be faster than I predicted, but I didnt want to count my chickens before they hatch.
or before you had any eggs?
I’ve got eggs.:party2: