One thing to consider with a “Performance/Racing Oil” is they will have less detergents then Normal/Street Oil which will have much more detergents in it which then gives more room in the Oil for lubricity.
And 5000kms on a Racing Oil with low detergent levels is almost 3500km to much.
Which is why I think Mobil 1 stopped making the “Racing Performance 15W30” and started making the “Extened Performance 15W30”[/quote]
Rofl i love son advice/facts.[/quote]
Well if you are so wise then why not inform us how I’m wrong…
Granted this wasn’t “racing” oil, but it was mobil-1 synth.
18,000 miles (30,000 km) ain’t bad.
Most interesting is this
Engine wear actually decreases as oil ages. This has also been substantiated in testing conducted by Ford Motor Co. and ConocoPhillips, and reported in SAE Technical Paper 2003-01-3119. What this means is that compulsive oil changers are actually causing more engine wear than the people who let their engine’s oil get some age on it.
Topping up the crankcase is a critical component of extended oil change intervals, and frequent filter changes are most likely the key to extreme-length intervals. The cumulative effect of even minor top-ups, let alone a filter change, substantially increases the longevity of the oil.
Based on the results we’ve got here, we’d recommend 8,000 miles between oil changes on an engine that uses no oil at all, perhaps 10,000 miles on an engine that uses some oil, and 15,000 miles or beyond with a filter change every 5,000 miles. This, of course, isn’t any kind of guarantee, and you must evaluate for yourself what your engine requires. One thing we’re pretty sure about though: 3,000-mile intervals is a huge waste of resources.
Advantages of Synthetic
Synthetic oil was originally developed for high performance racing engines. Mobil tried to popularize synthetic oil for passenger vehicles back in the early 1970’s. At the time, Mobil was promoting 20K or 25K oil changes with synthetic, but they soon backed down from this. Synthetic oil is a good choice if you have a vehicle with a high performance engine Give your head a long hard shake - SR20 is NOT a high performance engine. It’s an econo-box with a turbo slapped on (in fact synthetic is required for many of these engines). It is also a good choice if your vehicle is operated in extremely cold climates. It has higher resistance to breakdown caused by heat and it flows better in extreme cold. Unfortunately for the synthetic oil industry there is virtually no advantage to using synthetic oil in a non-high performance engine that is operated in moderate climates. You probably could go a bit longer between oil changes with a synthetic, i.e. following the normal service schedule even if you fall into the severe service category, but I wouldn’t advise this. In short, synthetic may give you the peace of mind of knowing that you are using an oil that is far better than necessary for your vehicle, but it won’t reduce wear or extend the life of the engine. The mistake some people make it to wrongly extrapolate these benefits onto normal engines operated in mild climates, with the ultimate lack of any knowledge being manifested with statements such as “synthetics provide ‘Peace of Mind,’ or ‘Cheap Insurance,’” or other such nonsense.
Extended Change Intervals
Most manufacturers of synthetic oil advise users to not exceed the manufacturer’s recommended oil change interval. Part of this is self interest (they don’t want to be liable for any damage) but the real reason is that synthetic oil, while it does have certain advantages, still becomes contaminated.
Be extremely wary of synthetic oil companies that offer to pay for your repairs if it is determined that their oil and their extended change interval recommendation caused the problem. Think for a moment of the incredible hassle you would have to go through to prove responsibility for an engine problem. Who would pay your legal bills? Who would pay for replacement transportation during the battle? The more bizarre the warranty the poorer the product is a good rule of thumb.
API Certification, Phosphorus & ZDDP
Never use a non-API certified synthetic oil (there are many of these on the market). The problem with the non-API certified synthetics is that they contain too much phosphorus (in the form of the additive ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates)). The API has limited the amount of phosphorus because phosphorus shortens the life of the catalytic converter. These oils are fine for snowmobiles, motorcycles, and older cars that don’t have a catalytic converter, and the extra ZDDP does provide additional wear protection. Unfortunately, the marketers of some the non-certified oils do not explicitly and honestly state the reason for the lack of API certification. You can check the status of API certification on the API web site. Be certain to go not just by the manufacturer name but by the actual product as well. This is because a manufacturer will sometimes have both certified and non-certified products. Suffice it to say that Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Castrol, & Havoline all make synthetic oils that are API certified and that can be purchased at auto parts stores and other retail outlets. Amsoil has one product line, XL-7500 that is API certified, but its other lines contain too much ZDDP to be certified and should not be used in vehicles with catalytic converters.
“It’s an econo-box with a turbo slapped on” I would agree with you if you were referring to a deisel engine with a turbo such as VW, but not on an engine that makes ~200-400hp with little difficulty.
But great info you posted there mr.2000 , I wouldn’t say that there is NO difference between synthetic and reg. oil in non performance engines, synthetic is a thicker blend of oil which lubricates internals much better.
If you walk into parts source, there is an oil test model comparing reg. oil with that Lucas oil shit, clearly you can see the difference, reg. oil just drips right off the gears while Lucas lubricates better. I would think synthetic would have the same effect over reg. oil maybe not to the same effect as Lucas but better non the less.
If your oil is getting contaminated, is makes zero sense to keep running that oil…
Sure you can change your filter and squeeze some life out of your oil, but as soon as the new filter goes in, it’ll become clogged almost right away, and then you’re back to square one…
The other problem is that oil that’s been in a motor for a reasonably long time get’s heat cycled and eventually breaks down… especially on turbo motors…
Aside from that, I would say the worse contamination aside from the metal particles floating around from bearing wear, is the fact that oil get’s contaminated with moisture… the moisture causes changes in the oil properties…
You can go ahead and run oil for 15,000miles… but I’ll stick to my regualr intervals to make sure my oil is clean, and thus allowed to do what it was designed for…
Saying a motor is inexpensive and low cost is a little redundant, and now that I think about it, anything mass produces is relatively inexpensive…
Like I said we talking about motors we were talking about oil, and regardless of the type of motor, the purpose of oil is the same from a “econobox” to a Indy motor…
so I checked out the AMSOIL website and in the catalogue you can read the description and oil specifications (physical/chemical), if you are reallly anal about the motor and the oil you shuold just read up on how all those specs work and analyze whats best for you. i run amsoil 10w30 turbo formulated, yet to let me down, proven itself a few times already.
sorry grammer status zero im in my bed on my laptop with no sleep
I’m sure everyone can say the same thing about the oil they use, or they would never use it, I know when I change my Mobile 1 I have never seen anything that would compromise my decision about the oil, so far in 3 yrs its the same formula that I use and will continue to use unless someone can show me facts about synthetic not being good for your engine or reg. Oil being just as good.
If you do circuit racing, I believe that a multiviscious oil, is the wrong oil to use…
Most “high performance engines” racing competitively, are not running a wide range multiviscosity oil…
The reason behind it, is that those detergents and additives to make an oil multiviscious actually cause oil to coke in turbo cars as they also bring down the burning point of the oil…
From my experience (no I didnt conduct excessive logging on my motor with different oils hence I have yet to install any logging equipment on my car), the 10W30 AMSOIL is better because Mobil 1 10W30 because of some things such as:
When I had my (KA24E) upon reaching 3000km after an oil change, the Mobil 1 10W30 oil would be significantly darker (yes I thought this depends on how clean the motor can keep the oil) and around 3500 I would hear valve ticking on that oil. Upon switching to AMSOIL 10W30 I would never hear the ticking even at 5000km and the oil would stay relatively cleaner than the Mobil 1 up to 4000km.
My motor would burn 1/2 to twice the amount of Mobil 1 10W30 than AMSOIL 10W30 on track use. The engine would run much smoother with AMSOIL at higher rpms and the oil upon oil change would come out smooth and viscous feel(i do not mean excessively thick) to fingertips rather than thin (thin = yes, low viscousity, less breakdown) and coarse like Mobil 1 would.
And when my oil filter popped off it was AMSOIL =P! (no dont start on this please I know it probably has very little to do with this).
According to both Mobil 1 and AMSOIL websites and any other oil website you read up, all these oils are ‘blends’ hence one cannot argue that one is better because one bottle says “100% synthetic” and other does not. Also some people say that such slogans as “Turbo Formulated” and “High Revving Power” slogans on the can are just a marketing technique, is not always true. The oils are chemically balanced and tested to last in different pressures and temperatures at different prologed periods of time, hence some oils are better for certain applications than others considering that the weight of the oil (eg 10W30) is the same. Therefore, in order to compare oils one shall look at the manufacturers specifications sheet rather than just the weight of the oil (eg. 10W30) on the bottle and word of mouth. These are the reasons I choose AMSOIL over the Mobil 1 oils, and if anyone is wondering no I have not read up on what each specific description in the oil specification sheets mean and yes this is my experience from the KA and as I have said different oils will perform differently on each application (motor).
I just installed a breather on my sr, on the right side of the valve cover, and plugged my intake, and for some reason it donest feel like my car is pulling as hard any more, i checked to make sure there were no leaks on the plug, and there isnt… any ideas why it would be feeling… not slugish… but just a little more sound a little less go ?