how the fuck o you get these off???

stupid age old question

but

the fucking bolts used to secure brakes lines and the ones to the abs cylinder, that always fucking strip

well how do you guys get the to crack loose once theyve stripped?

every single one ive done has stripped like nothing and needle nose plyers didnt do shit either

ggrrrrr

give me your tips

heat up the metal wqith a torch then try vise grips

add heat to the abs actuator around the threaded area. Dont heat up the actual fitting or it will just snap and you’ll have to drill it out. secure some vicegrips on extremily tight and tap with a hammer. The sudden taps with the heat usually break the threads free from eachother. Using pure leverage with a breaker bar usually breaks the bolt.

thanks for the quick replies guys

now the only problem is finding somehting to heat is with

i gots nothing here and need these off now

it’s called a flare wrench… use it.

a) dont have any nor have i ever had one or heard of one until now

B) there stripped so it does me no good now

should of used some anti seize spray and letem soak… you still can then use a good pair of VISE grips. or drill a heavy bolt into it and use a stripped bolt remover in the new hole from reverse side and wrench it out until your vice can twist it.

Stripped bolt remover is more for allan keys where u strip the inside of the bolt its treaded oppisite way as the bolt goes in so u have to push hard in the hole to get it to bite and thus screwing it outwards

  1. spray penitrating fluid
  2. let it soak in
  3. flare nut wrench (line wrench)
  4. Profit

Yea, flare wrenches own, sometimes you can even use them if you’ve rounded the bolt a little bit. You can check out Crappy tire for them, they sell them in sets, but I only got a 10 & 11mm one, b/c it’s by far the most useful.

thanks again for the quick replies guys

as you can all guess by now, i have your basic tool set, and not much more lol

ill be picking up a set tommarow

if all else fails, and you’ve biffed it to the point where it’s round, HEAT and vice grips are your friend… then screw the OEM parts and get or make some -AN replacements in SS or aluminum.

8mm is good too for the slave cylinder :wink:

hey matty if u cant get ur hands on a tourch use those plumbers tourch they ues them for soldering pipes together, its not the best heat source but it will still work for ur situation, u get them at home depot or ct

Flare wrench is definitely the best way to to do it.

Just a note, home hardware has bernzomatic torches for like 19.95… its a worthwhile investment IMHO

re: ‘plumbers torch’ there are 2 types of gas, propane and MPS, get the MPS ( in the yellow can) it burns ~4x as hot as propane, it’s a very good analogue to an oxy torch.

you can also file the heads to create new flat sides, I’ve filed many rusty 10mm bolt heads down to 9mm or 3/8" and got it free…

thanks for all the tips boyos

your all aces in my books

I hope I catch you BEFORE you make the same mistake I did. The Canadian Tire brand and any other brand are shit tools (as far as line wrenches go) and they ALWAYS strip the fastener due to the wrench bending open and not retaining the size it is supposed to. If you are going to get line wrenches GET THEM FROM SNAP ON!!! They are the only ones that have not sent my knuckles into sharp metal shit on the other side of the fastener. Good luck

accedaline (sp?) is bomb. end of story. i always have a huge ass tank of it with me. (im a plumber) so much fun shit to do with it. blowing shit up ect… then the actual uses tool wise for it are endless.

you could

  1. heat the nut and tap it with a hammer lightly to brake the rust around it holding it in place
  2. vice grips
  3. pipe wrench
  4. WD 40 with 2+3
  5. hammer a socket slightly to small for the nut (3/8) on there and braker bar that bitch.