remember if you go with a moly cage it will need to be tig welded in order to pass tech. this will increase price of install wherever you decide to go. if you go with a standard mild cage it can be mig’d which is much faster and will cost less in long run. i may be interested if i can punch you in your testicles everytime i burn myself.
I will bring two buemes and a breetime all of which you can punch in the testicles.
i wouldnt be worried about the weight savings with a chromo cage…
i mean 40lbs is nothing on that car… adn its not like you are tryign to win $$ with it…
You are deff right but I am still doing moly. I have so much time and monies into this thing I guess I just want “the best” if it is only a few hundo extra. I think that the extra $200-300 would easily be made up for if I go to ever sell it. People paying 25k+ for one that is “restored” and has things like a 3k rear axle swap are deff going to prefer a moly cage. It just really inst worth a few hundred bux to me id prefer knowing everything on the car is the bast I could do/afford. Wait till ya see what she gets this winter. 
Car is getting at least 100lbs put back into it 
I find myself not driving it as it is simply a lil loud and uncomfortable for a street car. So like i said once cage is done im going with a full custom carpet. I have something really neat im thinking of but i need to make sure it can be done first.
The chromoly isnt any ligher, NHRA just lets you get away with thinner wall using 4130 vs steel.
SCCA used to allow this, but not any more. The same wall thickness (and diameter) is required regardless of the material used.
Just tossing that out there.
Dan
Just so you know if you’ve been looking at those “kits” or pieces to make a rollbar, most of them aren’t notched. Notching the tubing on the wolfe kits costs an extra $100.
Viper966, gonna totally disagree with you on the weight part. You should always try to save weight whenever possible. It’s not like it’s an extra $500 to save 10lbs, for a 6-point cage it’s an extra $200ish to save 30-40lbs. Well worh the extra dough.
Yea Viper you will never be able to take that weight back out and every lb adds up.
Just ordered my 6pt.
Link to what you picked?
make sure you take a dump before you race! i find it’s beneficial to shave your head too; hair is heavy
Guys please do not start a weight debate. Im doing moly end of story. Dan thanks for the tip. So you are saying for SCCA events a thin walled moly cage will not pass. Interesting.
Wow thats a nice price Pat, Right click-add to favorites.
I’m interested to see the quality of youe piece when I comes in, I may be adding this to my xmas list.
Thats correct. This is from the 2008 GCR regarding cages:
Minimum tubing sizes for (all Showroom Stock, Touring and Improved Touring Category auto-mobiles registered after June 1, 1994) for all required roll cage elements (All dimensions in inches):
Up to 1500 lbs. 1.375 x .095 DOM / Seamless / Alloy
1501-2200 lbs. 1.500 x .095 DOM / Seamless / Alloy
2201-3000 lbs. 1.500 x .120 DOM / Seamless / Alloy
. 1.625 x .120 DOM / Seamless / Alloy
. 1.750 x .095 DOM / Seamless / Alloy
Also 4130 shoud really be “normalized” after welding (heated to a dull red with a rosebud tip with a torch). It also needs to be inspected more frequently.
Personally, unless its a drag only car, using 4130 makes no sense.
EDIT: The last two tubing sizes are the other two options for 2201-3000lbs. For w/e reason it wont insert the spaces like I wanted.
Dan
Well thanks for the info appreciate hearing from some of the experienced builders. Looks like I shall think about it and will consider the options. I wish I knew how well the kits fit because it looks like that is my cheapest route by far. Hell mild steel kits are $300 with removable door bars. I have plenty of friends I would trust welding it. Decisions
Ya, kits can be sketchy. Alot of them ive seen have the hoop ends far in on the flat part of the floor, which sucks. Its best to tie them into the rocker boxes as much as possible. Ie: plates should extend up and over the rocker boxes and over the floor as well.
This is how we did mine.
See the 4 holes in the floor (ok, only 3 are shown)? In the middle of those is where the hoop ended with the S&W kit I had before this. Its not hard to see why the new way is at least an order of magnitude better.
Dan
yup my old bolt in wolfe was like that. I did somthing like that with the place I put the hoop on the current setup. And for the other bars. Drilled some access holes for some plug weld spots underside were some layers were. Kinda made a built in outrigger without cutting a section out and fitting one. I have no sub frame connectors either
Here’s a few pics of mine. Notice how close the door bar is to the door panel. The kits you buy won’t be anywhere near this close. They will be much closer to the seat and possibly interfering with arm movement.
I put a piece of white paper on the floor so you can easily see the tightness of the bar against the panel. It is about 1/4".
Here’s a shot from the back. Notice how high the upper hoop part is. It is literally 1/4-1/2" from the headliner. Also notice how tight the side is to the door panel. The side of the cage is easily 6-8" awat from the seat, as far over as possible.
Where my finger is, i’m actually pushing in a little bit on the soft panel. When the door is closed you can BARELY see daylight between the bar and the panel.
Paul has templates for many cars, 4th gen f-bods, fox-bodies, A-body GM’s, older musclecars, etc, but I don’t believe he has one for an RX7 that I know of. I paid less than what you have been quoted from the other guys.
Not to burst your bubble but when the front end of my wolfe kit was in the car, it was hugging the door panels perfectly. Also, if they happened to be slightly off, you are allowed to massage the notch so it fits how you want it to. Lastly, my 6pt ms cage wasn’t 85lbs or whatever you claimed.
Just some additional info to take into consideration
My convertible came with a wolfe roll bar. It fit like dogshit. It was super tight in 1 spot and then about 4" off a foot down. The 80-85lbs I got right from the wolfe website.
Here it is:
Material: 1 3/4" x .134" Mild Steel Tubing
Weight: 80-85 lbs
That is for a 6-point weld-in mild steel tubing.