Well I started washing my car today and noticed that I have rust particle spots all over my car. All the sprinkler systems around here in FL use well water which has rust particles in the water and where I park my car sometimes gets a nice spraying if the wind is right. A simple washing did not remove any of the spots so my question is what should I do?? Its all on the surface of the paint so I was thinking maybe a clay bar? If claybaring is the way to go what brand should I go with, is 1 clay bar enough to do an entire car, and what kind of claybaring tips can anyone offer me to make it easier and have a better outcome. Thanks guys
gm paint sucks… ur best bet is wet sanded the areas, cause most likely its just surface rust… so the rust is coming from the clear coat, just wet sand it, and then buff with a wool pad, using EXTRA CUT COMPUND made by 3M, and then use a black foam pad, and use some COLOR RESTORER to get the swirls out… then wax…
uhhh I drive a 2001 Lexus IS300. Used to have GM’s but never changed my name on here. And these spots weren’t there a week ago when I washed my car and I can remove them with my finger nail but since theres about 30,000 little spots that would take quite some time to remove with my finger. I don’t think wetsanding is the answer but I appreciate the feedback.
Okay grasshopper. Your car is silver, right? Silvah doooyotaaaahhh?
You get a Claymagic blue bar. This is the clay you want and need. Meguiars is crap and Mothers is overpriced. One clay bar is more than enough for one car. Cut the bar in half. If you drop the one you’re using you will thank me later. If you don’t use the second one spray one spray of clay lube into the bag and seal it up tightly. It will keep for months. You may need extra clay lube (either cheap quick detailer or a drop of soap and water in a bottle).
Clay barring is super easy. It’s relatively safe. Use linear motions back and forth. It’s common to go with the flow of the wind across the car (because this is the direction, typically, that contaminates get lodged in the paint). You can cross thatch going perpendicular and then parallel (I usually do this but end with a parallel pass).
Do the cleanest parts of the car first. Typically these are the same panels you should start washing a car with (the hood, the roof, the trunk, then the fenders/upper doors, then the lower body below the bump strips and the bumpers). You can also clay bar your windows. It will make them easier to clean, they will stay cleaner longer, and your windshield wipers have longer life.
Just keep the surface wet working a small section at a time. If you don’t, well, I can guarantee you will do this. You won’t damage the paint, but you will get a smeary little mess. Spray more lube onto the paint and reclay that section. The lube will dissolve the clay and you can just wipe up the excess.
Very difficult to mess up anything while claying that can’t be easily fixed. (I do not recommend buffing as a means of contamination removal, btw )
Where in Florida do you live? There’s a detailing retailer down there that may be near. http://www.detailcity.com/
When you see the clay getting dirty fold it over and knead it back into a wafer. You shouldn’t have to do this too often, but it’s fun to play with. Claying is actually my favorite part of detailing.
Also the panel is clean when you feel no resistance between the clay and the paint. You will hear none, too. You’ll see what I mean (it sounds rather foul). You can also put your hand in a plastic bag and, after you have dried that panel, drag your fingers across the paint in the bag. Sometimes people do this when they first start a car, but I haven’t seen a car that doesn’t need claying of some sort or another. In fact, my car needs to be clayed, I just haven’t gotten to it.
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