09’ Chrysler 300 seems to be centered on the rear of the car with a cpl spots on the sides. What needs to be done to remove? Claybar? Buff? Also any reputable places to have this done? I believe I looked into the vendor here once before and they have a service thats roughly $2-250 for a full clean. Was thinking about that just to freshen it up. Just looking for a cpl ideas.
geoffspaint.jpg…
lol, psphinx enjoys doing these corrections
is that rust or just pollen spots?
Claybar should be enough followed by a light cleaner/polish (even something like Meguiars Colorx). Mothers clay bar is better than Meguiars. Interestingly, for light paint contamination, I have found Turtle Wax Ice Liquid Clay Bar ($3 at big lots) to be effective.
This is certainly in the realm of “do it yourself” if you have the time and motivation.
The rust is caused by iron deposits and other enviromental fall out. Clay bar will remove this. It will takes a good amount of time and some elbow grease. One it is removed a good wax or sealant with a good wash on a regular basis will limit this, It can not be 100% prevented though.
If you are looking to have someone do a detail for you and remove the spots send me a pm. I can help you out.
The issue with iron contamination is that claybar(assuming there are some that are truly surface breached and not just sitting atop bonded) will only cut off the heads of the contamination and the “body” will stay stuck in paint to only rust again.
It is the exposure of the ferrous(iron) material that causes rust, thus almost allowing it to burrow a little bit. If you couple that with something like heat (read: braking material during hot laps or spirited driving) that poses a great risk for true embedding of that iron material to become stuck thus giving you a situation for it to return.
This is the same reason, why cars that are only clayed end up coming back with the same amount of contamination a year or less later. Cars that are treated for true resolution of this, while some will eventually show up again(new stuff) instead of a recurrence, have considerably better results. Claying otherwise is considered appropriate for this, if you are comfortable dealing with it at later dates. This contamination, it should be noted are some of the reasons, if left untreated can potentially result in premature coating failure of the paint system - obviously extreme cases only.
I have treated many white and silver cars with seriously mindboggling contamination issues and the ones that are given proper decon, even if they are winter driven and barely washed during that show a significantly lower re-contamination level that tells me its the way its dealt with that is key for true resolution. But as gt08vapor has stated, it will probably happen on some level just because of where we live.
I am confident if you looked behind your wheel wells you will find traces of these same iron contaminates as found on the rear of the car, where air swirls around(carrying hot brake material amongst tons of other fine particulate that is allowed to settle).
I have never experienced reoccurring issues.
I’ve used the traditional clay bar from meguiars for about a year or two now with good results, but it can be a PITA sometimes for very small spots. I might stop by biglots and see if they have this turtle wax liquid clay bar. Read some reviews and it seems like it will get the job done just fine.
On something close to new I would go to the dealer and try to get them to fix it for free.
I would be strangely curious at the remedy the dealership would have for this. I would imagine it would be along the lines of high speed buffing, ripping the stuff off the paint(taking a nice amount of film build with it) in place of doing it as gently as possible. It seems like the liquid clay bar is a paint cleaner, I would bet it smells of petroleum distillates and my guess is it probably leaves anything embedded, still embedded aside from any mechanical action the hand application would impart to knock stuff loose.
Unfortunately, I probably am just seeing much more contaminated vehicles. bah
its just crap from the exhaust… a very basic clay bar / paint cleaner combo will fix it right up.
I don’t know why I only de-cat my white cars… it makes this a weekly procedure for me.
Metal filings come out of your exhaust?
I’m not talking about nuts and bolts coming out, but yeah - exactly like in the above pic.
the metal comes from the brakes…
+1. It would be very difficult for exhaust, which is dumping behind the car, to get spread along the sides of the car.
unless you drive on a road that has other cars in front of you. but yeah, a lot of it comes from the brakes also.
as stated before, claybar. it will take you some time and its going to be a pain in the ass but it comes off
Wetsanding with 2500 grit is soo much easier and faster and menzerna intense polish does the trick.
Thanks for all the input its appreciated. Claybar seems easy enough, just time consuming. I haven’t wet sanded anything since HS auto class, lol But I have noticed the entire car has swirls and what not. So I think a buff out is in order. So I may just contact the site vendor or elsewhere in the near future and do a once over on the entire car.
I had this really bad on my car after I consumed a pair or rotors at a road course. Of course I didn’t wash the car and the side of the car had rust deposits all over. clay took it all out and it looks as good as a 4/10 car can possibly look