BFH
Originally posted by Pewterss
BFH
???
big fucking hammer 
Originally posted by slowcamaro
:rolleyes:that would be too fast for him:D
:hahano:
Originally posted by peterock17
now i’m thinking built toyota 2tc w/5speed tranny
sitting at my house!
ford 2.3 turbo is a tried and true swap in mg’s, as is dropping n honda gsr motors…
i really gotta do tons of research on this project.
right now the most on top of the list is
1 t block toyota
2 12b rotary
3 sr20det- if it fits.
4 ford 2.3 turbo
5 small block chevy or ford.
A couple of years ago I put a 377 small block chevy and turbo 350 in a 1989 Mitsubishi Starion. I had a 175 shot on it for kicks. It was like riding a skateboard with a jetpack on your back.
My experience on swaps of this type isn’t firewall clearance, the most difficult thing is oil pan sump location in relation to steering linkage. Like Pewter said, BFH’s work for the firewall, but unless you’re ready to put a rack and pinion steering in, check your dimensions where the oil pan can fit. I almost went the 4.3 V-6 route, but all I was saving was 4 inches off the front of the motor. I didn’t need to save any distance there.
I have a T-Type now, without seeing your car, I would say a 3.8L turbo Buick would be the way to go. Small rear sump.
For the Starion I used a Chevy II oil pan, there is a notch in the sump for the steering linkage to pass through. There is also some pans for small block Chevy’s that put the sump in the front with a extended pickup tube on the oil pump.
Ford 5 liters have some unusual oil pans too, I think most have a dual sump.
My suggestion would be to start by locating your flywheel and measure dimensions from there.
Originally posted by GeneralG
A couple of years ago I put a 377 small block chevy and turbo 350 in a 1989 Mitsubishi Starion. I had a 175 shot on it for kicks. It was like riding a skateboard with a jetpack on your back.My experience on swaps of this type isn’t firewall clearance, the most difficult thing is oil pan sump location in relation to steering linkage. Like Pewter said, BFH’s work for the firewall, but unless you’re ready to put a rack and pinion steering in, check your dimensions where the oil pan can fit. I almost went the 4.3 V-6 route, but all I was saving was 4 inches off the front of the motor. I didn’t need to save any distance there.
I have a T-Type now, without seeing your car, I would say a 3.8L turbo Buick would be the way to go. Small rear sump.
For the Starion I used a Chevy II oil pan, there is a notch in the sump for the steering linkage to pass through. There is also some pans for small block Chevy’s that put the sump in the front with a extended pickup tube on the oil pump.
Ford 5 liters have some unusual oil pans too, I think most have a dual sump.
My suggestion would be to start by locating your flywheel and measure dimensions from there.
thanks this is exactly the kind of info that I need.
Originally posted by peterock17
the after market for these cars original 1275cc engine was pretty big. Its just really pricy. you can get a crate motor and tranny pushing 170 hp supercharged for $7.5k. I figure a v8 swap might cost less than that.
$7,500 for a supercharged engine that only puts out 170HP. :eek: :eek: :eek: You could do some many different engines for chaper that put out more than that. (LS1, LT1, H22A, B18C5, etc etc)
A good resource for exhaust is Sanderson Headers.
Best header flange in the business, no gasket necessary.
For your cross member check out:
http://www.cachassisworks.com/
then click on engine mounts.
I bought one of their tubular front cross members($75), bolted it to a bare engine block connected to a tranny housing, lowered into place, took a few measurements, then welded the cross member in. Saved alot of time.