crx
b18b
14b
dsm 450cc’s
10psi
??
You’d be near somewhat near the upper limit of that pump, but you could run it. I’d estimate about 85% duty at WOT, give or take.
The question would be can it stand the heat generated by operating at that level for too long?
I had a 190 on 550’s with a 14b, but it was a 2.0 motor
If your using a good fuel pressure regulator I would just go with a 255 from the get go.
with dsm 450’s the 190 is a bigger fuel pump than a factory 1g dsm that comes with 10-14psi stock. I would say if the 14b is the only turbo your going to run you will be ok, but if you ever want to go bigger or higher boost…if you have a choice and a good fpr just go with a 255
You know you’re gonna want more boost. Just get the 255 lph pump now.
190lph will run 650’s at upwards of 75psi to 100% duty cycles. Thats enough for 350-450whp depending on the dyno you go to and what you set your AFR to.
hmmm… thats kinda all what I thought. This car has a 190 in it now and i started street tuning it and cannot get it to richen up at the top end. Sometimes just driving it it will completely lean out and shut off were you can barely keep it running… and then it’ll just come back to life. Almost like its sucking the fuelrail dry… I dont know though. It figures I cant get crome to connect to the datalogger so I have no idea whats going on plus the dudes tach is ghey’d up b/c of white face gauges… UGH*
I think im going to toss a 255hp in it and hope it fixes the problem. The only thing I havent done is build a completely new map from scratch, which I know the kid isnt going to pay me the time to do. freakin running a business swallows elephant cawk.
if there is a leak in the line inside the tank from the install not letting the pump presurize the line, or the Afpr isnt allowinf the fuel pressure to rise steady that will cause similar issues.
do you have a way to check the fuel pressure on the car, idle or wot? And when your changing the 190 out look around to make sure that the lines were 100% sealed around the pump, good luck
its the stock regulator and there is no gauge on it. I’m hopin i find the same thing, something wrong in the sending unit… the kid said it did the same exact thing after the pump install, but before we put 450’s in it and obd0-1 converted it… so at least i feel better that it probably wasnt something from my work.
So how are you tuning the car with no datalogger, watching the wideband and guestimating what cells to change?
When I replaced the engine in my teg a couple washers got swapped in the fuel rail and it was sucking the rail dry basically doing exactly what you describe. I threw a gage on the fuel filter and it was showing insane fuel pressure all the time. Basically I had pinched my fuel line off supplying the rail so everything before the pinch was high pressure, everything after would be stock until it couldn’t keep up and would drop off drastically.
Also as stated above a leak at the pump will make it suck.
I have that gage if you need it give me a ring and I’ll pull it off. My car hasn’t gotten driven much lately
im using crome pro with its datalogger… i basicly grab a big block of cells and move them around, see where changes are made in the rpm range. It sucks for now, but i immediately could tell i couldnt keep fuel in the higher rpm at all…
I’ll check that washer out and see if its correct. I had the same washer problem on an allmotor GSR a long time ago, same kinda thing. I still wanna put the pump in to be safe.
you should be fine with that pump…im still living on the edge and running the stock pump on the civ and it seems to be keeping up for now…i am sure we will find out when i have you tune it with more boost 
What injectors are in it? Thats pretty bold right there!
DSM 440’s… you know me man always pushin it!..i still got you windshield wiper pisserz for that prelude hood i painted for you…just havent been down that way or i woulda dropped them off to ya.
ah right… i’ll try to stop up sometime and grab em.