mustang should be done getting painted in a week or two and id really like to get it tuned to see whats up with it, just wondering if theres anyone local that specializes in mustangs or better yet 5.0’s… not looking to drive 4 hours away, its just a fun car, im happy with 4-450 wheel.
also, ive realized that the stang is using an fmu… im sure the car has a bigger fuel pump, but the injectors look grey which im thinking are stock?? wondering if you can still upgrade your injectors, pump and regulator and still run the fmu or if you ditch it at that point? not sure how it works, ive read that fmu’s are for people who dont wanna spend the money on fuel systems. whats the max power i could make running an fmu?
Would you like to make a bet? I guarantee it makes more then 330rwhp right now… Your friend had noo idea what was done to this thing… your friend said stock cam, pretty sure not stock cam, he also said stock motor, my buddy is pulling off the heads right now and almost gaurentees me there gt40 heads… Im not saying the things gonna make 450whp right now lol… but supercharged 5.0’s make 270-280whp on a 100% stock car with no so much as an exhaust.
the bbk ssi manifold and supercharger alone are double what i paid for the car lol… and the thing is actually pretty damn clean underneith considering.
LQ4 swap, 76mm ebay turbo, ebay bov, ebay wg, efi live on the stock ecu… 500-600+ hp depending on how much boost you want to push it too. done. Sell the blower, part out the motor and it would pay for all the above.
sorry I had to.
What blower body is that? What pulley? Like john said that rising rate regulator is JUNK. it’s part of the “kit”. All it does is raise the base pressure 1:1, 1.5:1, etc. on the fuel rails with a boost refrence. Get the right injectors, and tune it on the ecu like you’re after. It will run much better and much more consistent. Also like John said, Capola can do it. Honestly anyone with tuning ability can tune it. I love how everyone has to bring their cars to “XXXXXX” because he is the king shit of “ZZZZZZ” cars. It’s an engine, and all the sensors are the same on that motor VS your eclipse, more or less. The software does the same shit basically too, it just looks different. For a basic tune, one to run around town on, take to the track here and there… anyone with experience behind a laptop that understands tuning, more importantly that person is CONFIDANT in their ability and can ask you the right questions to tune it appropriately can do the job.
the part in bold is MUCH more important when it come to finding a “tuner” than how far away they are, how much they charge, and who their name is.
its a v3 wich is self lubricated, doesnt need oil lines. I think its the 8psi kit, but not positive, ill let u no when i drive it again. i dont care about sick power for right now, i want a MINT 400-450 wheel reliable around town car. Eclipse is more then enough for my street/strip whip.
is there a way to tell if the cam is stock without removing it and testing it? i always thought no. maybe measure the push rods?
it could sound mean idling because the fmu isnt set up for the idle. so it could sound lopey.
also get a quarterhorse or sct. there is a bunch of online tuners for these. you can do a email tune pretty easy nowadays.
you send him your car info, the tuner will send you a tune you upload it, drive it around and then send him the data so he can adjust the tune. it usually takes longer to fine tune it but its easy.
the online tuner can see what he needs to change just like tuning a car in real time except he has to wait for you to send it to them. you could get a better tune from the internet than you could from a unexperienced tuner in ny and vise verse.
you would need to know the blower size and flow charts plus whats done to engine to give a good estimate on hp/tq. you cant just say 400whp
see what letter is after the gt40. i know ford made a bunch of heads with gt40. there should be 1 letter after to tell what model you have. they all flow different
you could put a timing wheel on the motor, use a dial indicator on the pushrods and do the math and measurements… but the time it would take to do all that, and you already have the front shit off the motor and the valve cover, your 90% there to removing the cam… just remove it and check the serial number or id scribing.
your 100% going to want to know what cam is in there. 400whp on a 5-7psi V3 compressor is the upper spectrum of expectations even with GT40 heads, a decent cam and exhaust. with injectors and a well running tune on a 7psi pulley my moneys on 376whp.
also some cam regrinding companies do not label the cams. so he could have a oem cam regrinded and he would never know unless he measured like you said or removed the cam and put it in a lobe finder.
GT40 heads are just stock Explorer 5.0 heads, nothing all that special really. Better than stock E7’s but to me they werent a swap worth the effort.
For a good sounding exhaust get a MAC Flowpath catback. Mine was pretty loud.
Id also do a 5 lug brake swap using '94-'95 Mustang (v6, GT or Cobra) front spindles, rotors and calipers and swap the rears using two '80’s Ranger left side axles and Ranger drums (inside the drums the rear brakes are the same). Thats the setup I did on my car. Youll also need a balljoint spacer for each side (or stack washers on the balljoints). The stock 4 lug brakes are scary as fuck. I try to stop at 80 mph with my car and blew right past my turn when stock. The newer setup is a million times better, even with the rear drums.
well gt40 heads are not all just gt40 heads. they are different some have a different exhaust setup so it requires a different header. the spark plug is at a different angle. some have smaller ports. some have smaller cumbustion chambers.
as you can see the gt40 doesnt describe enough.
they make after market casting gt40 heads and they are different too.
ooo and gt40p heads add about 20whp to a stock 5.0 so its worth it if they cheap
sorry I had to.