Anyone with knowledge tell me about ITBs on a high comp honda motor…
Tuning, gains, pros/cons, etc…
What kind of machine work needs done to be safe to rev high lets say 10k?
sound alone is worth it
tuning is harder midrange power is better top end is same
imo not totally worth it
What is involved in running ITBs?
What are good names in ITBs?
high rev’s depend on the bore and stroke of an engine…like your not going to get a 2.6l I4 to rev to 10k without alot or work…but a 2.0L I4 with balanced and blueprinted internals will be able to do it on a DD also you might need a new oil pump cams valve train all those fun things
guess I should of been more specific…ls/v with ls crank, B16 head (willing to do cams etc…whats it going to take to rev to 10k without fragging something?
springs retainers cams, balanced and blueprinted internals…thats just the usual though i havent looked to much into b-series i know k-series can get up that high no problem…your also prolly gona run s300 for engine managent
I know the deal with the head stuff, getting everything balanced…but what does blueprinting accomplish?
Have chrome right now, but from my understanding doesnt hondata have a special feature for itbs? someone educate me…
well like i said i havent messed with b series alot fmf kid will know alot more about that stuff then I but i know i can controll itb’s with my k-pro from hondata
so joe help me out here, what does blueprinting accomplish?
and can you spray with itbs?
I’ve built 2 setups, mine and turdtegs. I have an LS with ctr pistons, crower 404s, springs/retainers. I’ve blown both of them up trying to get them tuned. My biggest problem though was too much compression. Mine came out to 13.3:1 and turdtegs was 13.5:1. Both race fuel territory which we did not use then.
There are tons of factors that go into building a motor to do a certain thing. If you want to build a motor mearly rev, maybe b/c you need a large rpm range for solo2 or something, then there are certain things you need;
A bottom end that is built to spin. Rod to stroke ratio comes into play. If you have a poor r/s ratio, like an lsvtec, then the best route is aftermarket rods or at least arp bolts to hold it together. Remember, the more r/s ratio, you have more physical rpm between the crank journal and the rod bearing surface. This also should lead you to run a better oiling system, hence why vtec motors have oil squirters, the high rpms need oil, to help heat, to save bearings.
After the bottom end is the head. it needs to flow, straight up. Your valve train you build simply to handle the high rpms and cam lift. Try picking a high duration cam without skyscraper lift. The high lift at high rpm is going to be hard on cam lobes and be more prone to float valves… not that it will, but more ‘prone’ to.
I’ve learned a lot building motors, good example is my LS which I thought I could rev just b/c i have springs/retainers and big cams. if you look at my dyno plot, it doesn’t make power for shit at high rpms. Fix? FLOW the head; (sorry, forgot this was w/o ITB’s), but you still get the idea of the head not flowing;;
although, turdteg’s gsr… fully flowed head, skunk2stg2’s, sprigns/retainers. Even before it blew up on the dyno (sorry buddy), it would run into the 9k rev limit so hard you thought you hit a brick wall… aka the more you revved it, the more power it would make. If we would have rebuilt it, i have no doubt it would have been over 200whp. It would just smack the shit out of that limiter:::
Since you have a b16 head, you should see good gains up to around 9k with ITB’s. The main purpose with itb’s is that you are channeling the air straight into the engine. Because you dont have runner length now, your bottom end won’t be as responsive and torquey, but the midrage will start to come alive quick. My ls will absolutely creamate teh tires (advan a032r hards) through first and the end of second.
sorry for teh mini long post,… sitting around bored on a sunday will do that 
right now with the i think its spoon or jun (i cant remember) 06 si (k20z3) its revving to like 10k easy its got a 86 stroke and 86 bore though so its 1:1
its rod to stroke, not bore to stroke
no this is fine, its the kind of answer im looking for, something that actually answers the questions
now i know that the gsr block/crank would be better to use becuz of the better r/s ratio and the gsr has the squirters (ps if anyone has a bare gsr block ill buy it). motor would be built with ge H beams and forged pistons.
now what is the deal with race fuel and high comp motors? why do they need race fuel?
japan didnt even get the 06 si… or are you talking about the 4 door sedan that spoon built?
there is a link but you have to be registered to view it
There is a certain threshold that fuel holds, based on octane, that controls detonation. After you reach a certain compression ratio, say 93 octane will be unable to control detonation, no matter how much fuel you use. Race fuel containing lead and more methonal are able now to control detonation at a much higher level.
…i’m no chemist, so i’m sure there is someone out there that can lay some facts down much better than me.
i posted 3 times and this shit froze every time
fico stop cluttering wrays threat with your k series bull shit!
rev to 10,000 who gives a shit
ill build a b16 to rev to 14,000 big deal
wray either
gsr crank
or ls crank with raised wrist pins
the raised wrist pins help R/S
hycomps car i was launching @ 9600 on an ls crank (with the higher wrist pins)
vince ran a high 12.8:1 on pump all summer drove it to the track and bad
timing it key here…
with E85 you can prob go around 14:1 on a honda motor with no problem…
what bore are you going to go with?
this is a very important factor in building a motor… i love how you throw it out there like, pff… shit i roll raise wrist pin pistons… what? :bigok: