productive post :tup:
next time keep the dick comments to yourself =)
or leave them to me
all i noticed was nasty color and some foaming in the coolant earlier, no oil…and when i checked the oil dipstick, no coolant was there…looked good…added some coolant to see if needed any, but really didnt…
i gave up on optimism on the car a long time ago, but best case here is that its just the fuel pump shitting on me, and the filthy coolant lines are making it look gross…i can only hope…
well like i said ive never looked into these motors, but it could be a wire somewhere you never would of thought was the problem. I had a DSM not get spark because for some reason the cam angle sensor harness decided to shift, it was tight down but just kinda moved to the left a little i guess :lol: fucking DSM’s
no its bad
like foamy, looks like someone blew bubbles in chocolate milk…
and if the comp. is supposed to be in 150 range then it was like 150 X 5 & 110 X1 or something…
Ill give you 5 bucks
:word:
oh and gsx, i dont know honestly what i would really sell it for…
i dont know if id be better off parting it out or what…
if you look at the post i put up not too long ago about selling it, prior to getting it running the past few days…i was hoping to get somewhere around 8 or 9k, but that’s probably not gonna happen…even though well over that has been invested into the project
even with a blown head gasket or bad compression it still should run, unless you blew out 2-3 cylinders.
foamy coolant usually is always headgasket… there is exhaust gases getting into the coolant causing it to cook
Turns over but will not fire at all? Seems like it’s gotta be fuel or spark. Even if there was a head gasket problem wouldn’t it be stumbling and billowing white smoke out the exhaust?
air bubbles can cause foamy coolant. To me its sounds like fuel or spark. Worry about the head gasket later after you get it home.
well like i said andy def. check to hear the fuel pump hum when first turning the key if nothing thats most likely the problem…otherwise i would look into that low compression reading on that cylinder and see whats up…110 def. isnt good maybe check it again… good luck man let me know if you need a hand
i get out of class tonight at 8:45, and anybody that’s willing to help is more than welcome to be at mighty and then just follow me out to the car, i already have a guy off of the other forum that said he would tonight, just to help check for some of the basic shit…i gotta stop home first for my socket set and some other shit…but should be able to make it to mighty by 9:30 or so…this time i’ll be on time…
Actually GSX probably knows more about that type of car than you do and I am 110% sure I know more about it than you do 
So here is a productive post from someone who knows something about the topic. I own a 300ZX Factory TT, 90% of people with some knowledge of the swap and the car itself will tell you that you are 150% better off selling the NA and buying a TT.
Reasons Against swap
To buy a decent NA chasis will cost between $4,000 - Infinity in most cases
To buy a JDM Clip will cost between $2,000 and 4,000
So you are looking at almost a minimum cost of $6,000 But probably more in the area of $7,000 -9,000 after parts and labor etc.
In that 7-9,000 Price range you can get a great factory TT car which will not only relieve headaches of a swap, but you get some better options, like active suspension, HICAS, leather int. amongst other things.
For some reason I hear alot of horror stories about JDM VG30DETTs coming over and being installed, TwinTurbo.net has a plethera of blow ups shortly after install for no explicable reason.
Reasons for swap
Convertible TT is the hot
Slicktop TT is the fast
So Please spare me with your productive post BS KTHXBYE
yeah, but he already had the car. with a blown motor. he had the shell already.
But he had to pay some $ for it…just tell me what his final total is and I bet he could have got a TT for what he has invested
anyone notice this thread has 35 replies but only 2 views
oh i know i couda…and i wish i had, but with a decent na shell sitting around, that after driving for one year, i wasnt about to take a 90% loss on (from what i spent on it to what i woulda got for it) because it didnt run…and wanted to swap…nobody could have predicted all these problems
and yes chris…i noticed that a second ago too lol
I know you cant forsee the problems…but in doing the homework, you would have discovered the probablilty for failure, could have got an NA motor for under a grand and sold your car at that point. Not bashing because god knows I regret everything i had to do with a 300zx but hindsight is always 20.20 I hope you get it running but you also have to remember you are going to take a HUGE loss when it comes time to sell. So its pay now or pay later.
I’m with num on this one … the car is finally running… how long did you run it with the cap off to get the air out of the system? And even then, the motor is motionless… allowing air bubbles to stay where they are in some cases…
rule out the cheap stuff before you do anything else.
How many miles did you put on it before it didn’t start?