ya man, http://www.nyspeed.com/showthread.php?164206-«OFFICIAL»-NYSpeed-End-of-the-Summer-BBQ!-Sunday-9-26-10-Registration-OPEN
Mark didnt know about it either until I told him at lunch.
Got the repaired cutout reinstalled tonight.
Also started trying to track down the source of my high idle. I checked out the TB, seems like the plate is acutaly closing all the way. I thought it might not be as I added seals to the shafts and it turns a little harder than orig (I have added a return spring). It wasnt that.
Next up I checked the IAC (Ford type). I pulled it off and the seal looked good. However, the pre TB port on it is directly connected to outside air through this little filter under a cap. So I doubt its the cause of my high idle, but it certtainly would be a huge boost leak. I was able to blow right through it without almost any resistance.
I wasnt acutally using the IAC yet so I made a quick block off plate. Ill find out tomorrow after work if this helps the idle or not.
Finally some pics of the new door panels. The top of the drivers side is done aside from attaching hte interior window sweep to the panel and doing hte final install. The door openers are E30 BMW china made replacements. The pull handle is just a simple black ano aluminum U.
The bottom half will just be black powder coated aluminum, to match the rear seat parts, riveted to the top half and either screwd or riveted to the door.
Nothing fancy, just lightweight (probably at least 15lbs lighter than stock for the pair) and functional.
Dan
Quality work as usual.
Was raining tonight so I didnt go out tuning. I did get the drivers door panel all complete. I will be powdercoating the lower part wrinkle black this winter. For now the alum will do.
pass side glued up
Spacers for plull handle
I was worried about getting the window sweeps reattached to the panel, The stockers were done with what must have been a giant paper stapler, lol. Anyway, my upolstery stapler did the trick, I just had to bend them over by hand.
The top part of the window sweep was originally chrome, which I fn hate. So I wrapped it in some black gaffers tape.
Test fitting the aluminum. The clecos make this job super easy.
All rivited on
More sat.
Dan
Clean work man.
Thanks. And congrats on going 10s. I finally got to watch the vid - fn all vids are blocked at work and most “personal backup” picture files as well. LAME
Dan
Thanks man. I knew id get some 10s na. Who knows what the next track day will entail. :snky:
I still have yet to get any vids of it running. Soon maybee.
Drove the car a bunch on sat.
I verified a few things:
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my alternator is def shutting off at 4k rpms. Verified both with datalogs and volt meter. I think Im just going to cut my losses and replace this pile with a new one.
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Im nearly certain my high idle is due to the pos BBK throttle body. Im ordering a Accufab today, hopefully this solves the issue.
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my cutout leaks, alot. I dont think its the same since it fell apart. Im gonna limp through the rest of this year with it like it is, then go to a full 3" aluminum exhaust over winter
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my boost control solenoid works great. I just had to swap the software polarity. Before I swapped it I discovered that I can make nearly 22psi by about 3800 rpms. haha
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the car pulls pretty hard at 15psi. Its a total handful to keep straight (somethign like LEFT RIGHT LEFT RIGHT HOLY SHIT!! LEFT) even from a 50mph roll. Im not sure if its “amplified” torque steer from the manual steering, or alignment, wide tires, quaife… I gota figure out something. Right now its pretty scary.
Dan
So clean and simple, Nice Job!!
So the alternator guy let me borrow a new delphi alternator to try in place of mine. This one regulates much better, but it crapped out at 6700rpms, instead of 4000.
Im not sure what to do here. Is this good enough? Maybe its slipping and I should try a 1/2" smaller belt. Maybe these things arent meant to spin that fast…
Thoughts?
Dan
So I did some math this am. Looks like the current ratio is ~2.9:1. Giving an alternator rotor speed of 18.8k with 6500 rpm engine speed (seems like thats about the limit of alternators in general).
I also discovered that the pulley I had on my old alternator was 2.25" dia, stock is 2.5". I must have had the smaller pulley from back in my stereo days, where I needed to charge a ton at low rpms.
Going to the 2.5" pulley will allow the motor to spin to at least 7200rpms before I hit the 18.8k rpm where the alt shut off on me last night. (being conservative with my numbers)
I think that will be good enough. I dont plan on spinning it over 7k, unless Im still making power up there, haha.
He only wants $40 for the alternator he let me borrow (sounds like its old stock he’d rather part with).
I just gota run down and have him put the stock pulley back on the new alternator and pay him $40.
Gonna check this one off my list.
Dan
I say go with a 2" pulley and more subwoofers!
so, this might be a stupid question, but riveted the door panels on? This means you would have to drill out the rivets to get behind there in case of needing to fix something? Why not use some screws for accessibility?
Haven’t forgotten about stopping by Dan, just uber-busy before the fall hits. I’ll send a PM when the dust settles. Looks sharp as hell!
Im going to pull these off this winter to have them powdercoated. For now, to save time I just riveted them on. I MIGHT nutsert the door and use screws when they get reinstalled. But honestly, I might just leave the rivets. They are cheap and only take about 10 secs each to drill out (they are aluminum). Its not like you take the doors apart much to fix shit.
Dan
Didnt get a ton done tonight, unfortunately. I did manage to get the pass door panel wrapped and installed. Its all done. So now I pretty much have a full interior other than under dash panels and trim for the gauge panel. Ill figure that out this winter.
Tomorrow Im gonna try to get back to the alternator shop to pay for the alt and have the pulley changed. Then with any luck, do a pressure test of the intake to see if maybee I acutally have a leak somewhere causing my high idle. I tried finding it with the propane trick, but turned up nothing.
Dan
Drove it to work today, about 23miles. So I should be good to go for the picnic sunday.
Either my speedo is still off (high) or the car rides really smooth. It was sooo boring. There was a ton of traffic, I got like every light (which is awesome with a 1700rpm idle and partly open exhaust), and on the highway it never opened up enough to even do a couple little pulls from 55mph. Oh well, no issues though, so thats good!
Dan
Looks awesome.
How well does the tape hold up on trim? Washes, Sun, etc…?
:tup:
:bigtup:
Well, the ride home didnt go as well. About 2/3 the way home I started getting some sync errors (basically loss of crank trigger signal).
It must be heat related. It was about 88 today, and I had done alot of stop and go in traffic etc.
Im not sure what it could be yet. Perhaps heat soak of the VR sensor, and/ or expansion of the bracket causing the sensor to be further away from the trigger wheel. Or its something else entirely.
Im gonna take it out for an hour or two tomorrow but its only supposed to be 60. So we’ll see what happens. Im guessing it will be fine just as it has every other time Ive gone out driving and tuning.
EDIT: Oh, and the plate in my exhaust cutout is bent, which is why it wont close tight, sweet. That POS is going in the garbage as soon as snow flies.
Dan
Dan
---------- Post added at 08:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:34 PM ----------
I have no clue on the tape. It was just the cheap / easy way to do it. The amount this car acutally gets driven it will probably last years. When it gets shitty Ill just re-wrap it. No biggie. At least it cant chip and most importantly its not chrome.
Dan