So the weekend drives went without issue. Drove 75mi around town on sat, and 150mi or so to the picnic sunday.
I JUST got off the phone ordering the new 70mm Accufab throttle body. That should solve my 17-1800 rpm idle issues. It should be here in time to get it on and adjusted nice nice before the dyno on sat. 
Dan
It was good meeting you Dan. A+ work.
^ Likewise Luke.
New throttle body is in. I cant say enough about the quality of the Accufab TB. Its SOOOOOO much better than that pos BBK could ever be. So far it seems to be totally worth the money. The real proof will be when I start it up in the am.
I also put a new connector on the main harness that connects to the MS. I orig used the solder cup connector and it just sucked. So I found some solder terminals for the wires that I could snap into a housing. Again, SO much better and more reliable.
Should be all set for the dyno tomorrow (or sat).
Just need to set the idle with the new TB, change the oil, do some final checks and Im off.
Dan
New TB FTMFW! Idle is sweet now, flat at 1k. I could easily adjust the TB to have it lower, but with the cam it just wont idle there. Sooo stoked to have a normal idle finally. Whooo.
Woooo! Now, to find out if I can get tuned today…
Dan
GL!
So I think the clutch cant hold the tq Im making.
Went out this afternoon doing some tuning at like 17psi. In every gear as soon as I get to 4krpms the tach instantly jumps to 6k, ok it takes 1/2 second according to the logs. It even did this at 85mph in 4th gear. Now, I didnt notice the speedo jump to 125mph (which is the calculated speed at that rpm and gear). Id assume the speedo would jump if the tires were spinning.
Thoughts?
Dan
Yeah if it was spinning the speedo would jump. Killing a clutch that bad though you should easily be able to smell it. GL with the fix.
So Im pretty well done with the car for the season. Ill order a clutch sometime this winter. Ive been tinkering with some stuff, and Ill be working on some new suspension stuff and swapping to MS3 this winter.
This past week I got a few things done/ tested:
Wed night I reinstalled the power steering to see how much it would help my crazy toruqe steer (or w/e else it might be) and put my Wilwood “E” pads in to replace the “Q”.
Well, the power steering helps a TON. Its very driveable now. It is however, quite twitchy. I think reducing the working pressure in the pump should do the trick.
And the E pads are SOOO much fn better than those Q pads. I forget just how good this thing can stop. I played with the bias some as initially the car wanted to swap ends pretty easy. I have it set to min rear and I think its still just on the edge. I may try chaning the rear pads from the Hawk HP+ to a stock pad, or anything with less bite.
Also spent some time test fitting some parts to get the rear of the car lower. I think they are going to work just fine. The low pics below are the lowest I will be able to go. I can go as much as 5" higher or so (not that Id want to). The best part is this doesnt effect suspension geometry or travel, and it keeps the wheel centered nicely in the well. Pics of exactly what I have made to come soon.
Original
Low
rear view (driver side still at the orig setting)
I lowered the front just by the coilovers for now. I have some plans to get the front lower while keeping the roll center as close to stock height as I can get it.
More to come.
Dan
Dumped! Looks good :tup:
Ive always wondered what the rates of the rear swaybar and beam are, so I thought Id measure them. Im using a shortened Beretta axle beam for anyone wondering why its look different than a stock cavy beam.
Here is the setup:
I repeated the measurements several times. They were very repeatable (< 0.05" variation for the same change in angle). Considering my pretty hack setup, I thought that was awesome.
And the results are:
Beam + internal swaybar + external swaybar = 200lbs @ 5 deg (100lbs in)
Beam + internal swaybar = 100lbs @ 5 deg (55lbs in)
Beam only = ~70lbs @ 5 deg (40lbs in)**
** the beam only measurement got tricky. The beam was so flimsy with no bar that it created 10lbs of weight on the scale at the same jack height with a bar. So the numbers above reflect a 10lb difference between what I measured and what is displayed above. This measurement may have a bit of error in it.
I think the big thing to take away from this is that the rear swaybar approx doubles the roll stiffness.
Personally, I get some awesome data to base my new swaybar setup on. 
Dan
A few months ago I ordred a fiberglass decklid from VNF. It finaly came in a week or two ago, and it wasnt complete. It basically ended just above the tail lights and plate bucket. I was told it would match the back of hte car exactly, so it was a suprise when I acutally saw what it was. Anyway, after who knows how many phone calls to VFN discussing what to do, they are going to pay ship (both directions) so I can send them my spare decklid with tail lights etc to make a mold from.
They will then make me a complete lid at no additional charge.
So while it will be a pain to box it and ship it etc, it will be worth the time I think.
I also have the new rear swaybar pretty well figured out. Looks like its going to save me 20lbs of unsprung weight, while only adding 7lbs of sprung weight (net 13lb loss). Not bad for adding functionality of an adjustable rear swaybar.
Dan
Ive been working here / there on the rear axle beam, getting it ready for the new bearing plates, k brace mounts and shaving some weight off of it.
As of tonight I have all the holes drilled in it, which saves 3lbs.
The old hub plates and k brace brackets cut off.
Im hoping to get the model for the new bearing plates ready to get cut by wed (we’ll see).
Mounts and endlinks for the new body mounted swaybar should be here tomorrow. I also ordered some off road flex joints to use for the axle beam pivots. With any luck they will be here by friday.
Dan
i love this build!
Looks good dan, I gotta show you how I made some dust boots for all the new rod ends I have, I know you’ll like them.
The mounts for the swaybar showed up the other day. I bought a 1″ wooden dowel to serve as the mockup bar and made some brackets and links out of abs.
It looks like everything is going to work out nicely.
First pics are a 6″ bar length at both ends of full travel. Next are with a 9″ bar lenght.
And a couple pictures from underneatht that show the bar mounting and routing.
Dan
this is a sweet build. great work man!
Came up wiht this design for the swaybar mount extensions. I may change it up some, but I think its going to be the strongest and lightest way to do it. Each assembly weighs 0.9lbs plus any weight added by welds. Not that bad I guess. THis would be welded onto the frame rails, like the 2x4s were taped in the pics above. If it needs more lateral support I would praobably add some sort of rib to the tire well.
Dan
I was reading this thread bottom-up and saw the wooden dowel… at first I was like, WTF?!
Haha… ya, wood had a pretty high torsional stiffness, dont ya know.
Dan
uber light weight… pfffft, didn’t you know?
