sofaking overkill, awesome.
Great work as always but I am missing/not understanding something. Please forgive this noob question:
How does this compare to a solid sway bar?
Looking at the one you have the spline and the compression joint, in my mind, create a stress point, no? Unless I am missing the basic mechanics on how your suspension will twist; I am really confused.
Does this prevent laterial movement or front to back movement? Technically is needs to do both, right? I would think under hard turning the crossmember wants to shift laterally causing stress on that compression joint. Maybe it is strong enough but I have never seen a 3 piece sway bar.
Thanks for any input. We are all here to learn, am i right? 
Thanks guys. And im still meh about my welding.
Basically this functions just like a normal swaybar, its just in 3 pieces instead of one. This allows for pretty simple rate changes. Just slide out the bar and slide in a new one. Its also pretty cheap to. The bar itself is only like 75 bux ish.
This will only prevent twist. Remember, this connects to my rear suspension wtih rod end links, so it allows the beam to twist some without binding. I think it will make perfect sense when its all together. Just pretent its one piece. lol
Dan
you should hold a class on how to weld id pay for it
Luke - Also, the pictures you posted could be solid or hollow (Hollow they flatten and pinch the ends together; Those are just a single piece instead of multiple pieces.
With a sway bar, ideally there should only be torsional forces on it, not lateral (Thus why in the style you showed in your pictures the clamp mounts don’t prevent lateral movement other than the friction between the rubber/poly mount and the tube). There are stop collars on his to prevent the tube/bar from sliding due to the spherical rod end style mounts so it stays in alignment.
Ya, solid vs hollow really just depends on how much torsional stiffness you need. In this case I was able to get the same stiffness with a body mounted hollow bar, due to the shit way the stock bar is mounted to the beam.
Dan
I see. I wasn’t sure why it would even be three pieces to begin with.
Makes sense. Thanks for pointing that out. Never occured to me that these didn’t do shit for laterial movement. Never really put much thought into it. Well, to an extent over/understeer due to bodyroll could be corrected in some cases with a stiffer bar I guess.
Thanks guys.
The exact reason for having a Sway Bar!! 
I finally got my megasquirt back out and updated it with the MS2 chip, 4 bar map and a daughter card to allow for 3 outputs and launch high in.
Have you had any issues with your MS? Of course besides the dreaded usb to serial issues that everyone fights?
Any more info on your MS build would be bad ass. I like the taller case you made. I have my caae packed as tight as it can be, and being a v2.2 with no proto area theres alot of wires. I started this project 8 years ago when you emailed bruce and al direct for the boards, so its been a sharp learning curve comparing info off of 3 boards with all different names for ins and outs.
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I have a pretty complete metal shop at home, and do ALOT of tig work. If anyone seriously i would be happy to have a day of training for anyone that ws interested.
Once you have the basics, you just need practice.
I havent had any real MS issues. The biggest issue was setting up the crank trigger. I was SURE I had the polarity right, but nope, I was wrong.
I dont have anyting real specific documented on the MS build. I probably wont go back to create it either since Im planning on going to MS3 soonish.
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These showeed up today.
Then I used this:
And came up with this (on a spare test knuckle)
Nets me a 1.25" taller ball joint. Should definitely help the camber curve. I basicaly just need to weld the cup into a plate, and bolt it in place of the stock ball joint. Pretty straight forward.
I also heard my new lift off trunk lid should be here by friday
Dan
Impressive.
Where did you get the heim joint set up for the sway bar?
Fantastic work as always.
Its just shit I pieced together from McMaster.
Dan
Trunk lid showed. Its 10lbs as it sits.
The stock lid is like 40lbs. And the hinges, brackets and torsion bars I cut out were another 8lbs. So pretty good weight savings.
I need to order some dzus stuff asap.
Dan
Damn! Are the shaved / molded tails going to effect it’s street-ability (legally?)
Define “legally”…
The only lights in the lid were reverse and license plate. I bought some of those ricer LED plate bolts for the plate (acutally they are billet alum) and Im just gona say fuck reverse lights. Stock it was mostly just reflectors. The brake / turn signals are essentially in the back of hte quarter panels (the redish looking things in pic 4)
Dan
I highly recomend Camlock over Dzus. They offer WAY larger clamping forces if you like, a tad bit more misalligment, and they are much easier to install (no bevel or dimple needed). Aviation gave up on Dzus 20 years ago for Camlock stuff for these reasons. They are slow to come into the auto world, but I am using them exclusively over dzus now, after installing 60+ dzus on my race car, I went to camlock for the rest. Never again will I dimple a panel.
^^ I will definitely look into that. Where did you source your camlock stuff from?
Dan
You need to chose a material for the base, a length of stud, type of washer, and type of fastener head and add in a lock ring. I have hundreds of them in various styles for my aviation mechanic stock if you want to look at various styles before ordering.
ok, that is cool. But WHERE do you get that from!
but why do i feel the need to tell you that you that you need to get rid of the fake tail lights, smooth it and build a small lip spoiler. 
cam locks would be killer.