Ya. I was on there a bunch today. I downloaded all the spec sheets from Camloc etc.
I think the one-piece 2600 series would probably be fine for this application. Id use the surface mount type with the larger flange around the head.The 4002, with the separate grommets, seem a bit overkill.
Is that what you had in mind?
I had it made at VFN Fiberglass. It was pretty cheap, considering what they went through to make it right for me. I think I paid just under $200 shipped for it.
Ill def leave the tail lights there. Itd look wierd without lines there, especially with the lines on the outer tail lights that mount to the car (and acutally function).
More or less finished up the rear swaybar setup tonight. I just need a few longer bolts for the endlinks and to finish up the spacers for the lower shock mounts. (so I can use 3/8" bolts)
I TIGd the mounts to the chassis, which was intersting on the inside ones. I had to lie on my back, squeeze the pedal between my knees, and do a couple parts left handed. All in all I think they turned out pretty nice.
I also finally finished cutting out one of the new hub plates. The other had the holes drilled, just needs the outside pattern cut. (yes, I made both of these using the drill press and a jig saw)
This is how it all goes together. The larger hole is where the alxe beam gets welded to, thus moving the bearing up 2.5". MOre to come on that wed night.
Finally came up with an idea for the hub plate gusset and K brace mount. This is just a rough model of what it will look like. I will probably add a horizontal support as well for the tubular boss (as the load from the K brace is ~30 degrees off perpendicular.) I would prefer the rod end mount was in double shear, but I just cant think of a way to fit it all in.
Hopefully this comes together this weekend. Unfortunately I wont be able to weld it until my new TIG torch shows up on monday.
Just a replacement. My miller broke internally where the copper tube meets the threaded end dealeo. Must be it got adjusted one too many times. :shrug:
I bought a flexible head torch and a pyrex cup kit from HTP. Hopefully its nice.
Also Ive been researching the Camloc fasteners. I think Im gona spend the extra $55 cents over the parts from aircraft spruce and buy the skytanium ones with the adjustable receptacle from skybolt. Its still gona be $$ at 7 bux a set, but whatever.
Im curious to see how you like the pyrex cup. Alot of guys i know have said the arc light intensity is overpowering with not shadowing by the standard lens cup. They also said they get dirty easily especially when doing aluminum.
The camlock stuff is well worth the money. Is much more heavy duty and so much easier to install. Its just a shame i found out about the stuff after i already committed to installing them on the outside of my car, its the last dzus anything that will go on my car.
Ya, I may not like it for everyday use, but I can def see using it now and then for when sight is an issue. It was only $35 so its not like a huge investment if it sucks. Ill let you know how it works out.
The HTP stuff is pretty good, i have the leather covers from Arc Zone on both my 20 and 18 size torches. For 50 bucks each they are very nice and pretty much prevent any chance of burning a torch lead.
I have the 18 size setup, which is good to 400 amps and a Syncrowave 350 if you ever decide to do some heavy alum fab work. Its open to your use if ya need it.
And new 3" exhaust parts. The plan is to have the muffler in the cat position, and then Y to each side with the 2.5" aluminum (which Im going to flatten into an oval on the press). All these new parts total ~23lbs. The old exhaust was 37lbs (including the cutout and muffler etc). So I save 15lbs, go to full 3" and lose the unreliable (and easily bendable) cutout.
Finally got one new hub plate, gusset and K brace mount done. The other side should be done thrusday night.
I think it turned out pretty good. My welding is definitely improving. The new pyrex cup kit I got from HTP was definitely helpful for this job, no doubt.
Added a small wedge next to where I had previously welded the flex joints. Im not sure if it was necessary, but it should add some strength and it def looks better
Its certainly not light. However, I think the holes I added to the middle of the beam offset the weight I added to the ends. Also, there is a shit ton of powder coat on this (I think they double coated it for me so it looked smoother). This time its only getting a single coat. I think the total weight is likely just under the orig weight. We’ll see.
I picked up the steel brackets for the core support from the laser cutter on the way home from work. Managed to get them welded together, and welded to the car.
The new upper core support mainly done, including tabs for the hood pins.
And welded up what will be the new bumper support.
There is still a lot that needs to be done, but I almost have enough to start working on the bars for the headlights and grille. Im hoping to have complete by the end of next week.
The plan is for the bumper cover support and the upper core support, headlights, grille etc to all come out as one assembly by simply removing 4 pins.
I Love seeing this thread in “new posts” with your name as the last poster, I continue to LOVE seeing your fab work and the ideas you come up with for refining and making the car easier to work on. I would probably spend hours looking at every detail if this car were displayed on a lift just high enough to see underneath but also low enough to see the engine bay and into the inside without a ladder.
Thanks.
