Just picked up this heap today

word. gli’s are sweet.

you forgot stretched tires.

so , all you vw guys … ive decided what my first goal is. I would like to reach like 250 or so. I want a safe 250 or though , I wish i could go k04 but that would be pushing it to the limit.

whats the cheepest but best way to get there.

the only internal work i wanna do rods. I heard 250 is doable with stock rods but i dont wanna risk it, so if i do rods… whats the best way to get there?

give me some pointers. Keep in mind this is my DD

www.pagparts.com

thank me later.

thats gonna be your problem. if your using this car as a daily, leave it stock and reliable.

Do a ko4 with fueling and tune and itll be fun

hes already got a good trans. stock 02m clutch has held 400whp… if anything a stock flywheel clutch upgrade would be fine. a disk and pressure plate. nothing crazy at all.

a precision 5557 vband kit/fmic from pagparts, tapp file, injectors and a fuel pump and a set of rods and the car will be dead reliable and make a fun 350whp at 20psi, all day long

there are people who daily BT 1.8t’s, 35mpg, and over 100kmi on their setups. dont run the car all out whenever your drive it and youll have better luck. i was revving my stock valvetrain a bit further than i should have and i paid the price for it. but i put a pretty hassle free 30k on my car, only problems were the cheesey 5 speed axles. but the engine and turbo setup never let me down until i missed a gear and mechaincally over-reved it.

Fast, Good or Cheap. Pick two.

Good + Fast = Expensive
Good + Cheap = Slow
Fast + Cheap = Inferior

The GIAC software wont help you get the correct tune for anything over the stock turbo. I doubt they do reflashes for anything past a K04-022.

I ran a K04-022 (the k04-01 is NOT the same turbo, the 01 is a k03s (stock) sized, the -022 is the one slightly larger off a Audi TT225). It was a fun setup, in some ways (massive traction issues with the old 30R) I miss it. Spool was 2500 or so irc. Spiked 24psi, held 20psi till redline. Setup was FMIC w- 2.5" piping, intake, 380cc injectors running off APR’s stock turbo file tweaked with lemmiwinks, turbo inlet, 42DD k04-022 mk4 sway 3" downpipe, no cat, 3" ss tubing, magnaflow 3" muffler, Spec S3 clutch. 1st would sping off, not wheel hop like the stock turbo would spin them, 2nd would break loose here and there. even though it wasnt a big highway turbo, dropping a gear and goign WOT I stuck door to door with a 05+ Carrara 4 for a bunch of boots one day to work.

Next step up would be a GT28RS, fits the stock manifold too. just add fueling and some oil/coolant lines, downpipe work, and that will put you at a 300 mark.

Drop in rods for the win, that will get you there with some piece of mind without breaking the bank.

see, im thinking more along the lines of Good + safe. I would like to be fast but im not setting my goals to high to where I think it would really screw me in the safe end. I realise that anything over stock your risking it, but i dont think 250 is to much. If i could reach 300 safe, that would be great … but 250 is a good START number

the pagparts kit, is something I deff wanna do, but in time. Im not made of money and i have bills. I plan oh putting that kit together over time, ppl are always selling their shit on vwvortex.

the Ko4-22, did you ever dyno it? I heard its a fun little set up but most of the ppl who have done it, loved i for the first little bit but then wish they had more down the road. But i do like the idea of being able to upgrade to GT28RS. That might be the rout i would like to go first.

then move up to the pag parts kit

.

The kits are complete like the PAG setup, which will save you money in the end, once the project is complete. But you need the coin in one lump.

getting stuff here and there will save you money, if done so correctly over time. Thats what I did when I did the K04 setup. found the turbo, bought the downpipe becasue it fit like a glove no need to hack and cob up a TT down pipe… now I would just make my own dp ( i didnt have the resources back then). I think I did that whole setup for less than $1200, and the tuning I already had and worked off that. not ideal but it ran perfectly, great AFR’s timing was tweaked and it pulled great.

The 30R kit I did I parted together piece by piece. The PAG kit would have been cheaper, but I got exactly what I wanted and made it myself. I went water to air IC, and made some one off stuff so I made it my own.

First thing I would get it the ECU and injectors first (630cc would be fine). I have a stock ECU you could send out and get flashed, then sell the one you have when its up and running on the new setup to get a lil money back. Unitronic is what I ran on my 30R and it wan great. Out of the box they are “under tuned” compaired to Eurodyne (far less timing as one example) so out of the box it might not make Eurodyne power, but no reason it cant or surpass. They offer the same deletes as Eurodyne too, Maffless, (get that!) SAI, N249, etc.

If I were to keep it mild, save a little coin on the ecu and go Unitronic. If I were to go crazy or want added flexability, Maestro tunign suite to hand tune little things here and there when you make changes, go with Eurodyne. I think its $100 diff.

Then pic a turbo manifold. ATP, PAG. Pick a turbo. Precission billets are sweet, like MK4 mentioned and I am going with myself next year. They are also oil cooled only, so no water lines to run to and from (nice and clean install, saves you close to $120 in lines and fittings and adapters).

Down pipe solution. ATP 3" V-Band $350 irc. fits like a glove, V banded on the turbo and Vband in the middle for great adjustability to fit the rest of the exhaust you have. PAG makes one just like the ATP, or I could TIG one up for you for a bit less than those solutions. (304, 16GA same as the above, one V-band or X#bolt flange for the 28RS, vband in the middle for clocking and positioning, make it fit right up the rest of the exhaust you have, add 1,2 or 3 bungs for 02’s, etc)

make some charge pipes to mate to your existing FMIC. You can keep the diverter valve and make the dumps quieter as you come off boost, or weld a flange for a BOV.

air filter solution for the turbo inlet.

Then little stuff after that.

take it easy on her after that gets up and running. Add a LSD to the trans, and some better motor mounts and dog bone solution. DONE.

Between that and the R32…these are pretty much the only 2 VW’s I like. Congrats.

When your ready to sell the car pm me… Just sayin.

might actually try to hold on to this one for a bit. :stuck_out_tongue:

Have you ever thought about a simple flash? APR is a great program.

it has x plus on it already

which sucks becasue its not an imo-defeated ecu… so he cant really sell it without the buyer having a pia process to get it running, or selling them the cluster and ecu together.

but since he really didnt pay for the flash, it doenst feel as bad flashing Uni or Eurodyne over a $400+ flash.

but the X+ is makes more power than the apr s1 does, becasue its very agressive. Which by the way OP, log that thing and see what the timing is on that thing. once you raise the boost or run a larger turbo, to start tuning it you dont want to be running 26deg at 20psi on a bigger turbo! start with 15deg or so, and work it up. deto is a bitch.

ok, whats with the OP … sorry but im not up on my shift lingo… :stuck_out_tongue:

and as soon as i start driving the car, ill log it. Buuutttt, i dont have the program for it onmy comp. All i got when i picked up the car was the lil hand held thing that i plug righ into the car (flasloader)

OP = Opening Poster

I will look into the GIAC flash loader and see what it can do for you