Talk to Jon(DarkForceJackal) I’m pretty sure he runs a KAT at 5psi for winter driving and loves it.
jesse ran his ka-t setup in the winter at 7psi, and chris st john ran his ka-t in the winter as well at about 7-10 psi.
KA-T arent as bad as alot of people think they are they can just be alot more work as it isnt prepped for turbo like an SR is coming with alot of little things that make it alot easier to install.
I will race any SR in 5th gear at 2000 rpm…hahah its fun to watch them struggle.
Anywho, im totally down with KA-T and i will build them until i do a v6 or a v8.
Hope this helps and i hope that you dont hop on the SR bandwagon, KA-T FTW!
P.S. all kidding aside definetally a good route to go, and alot of people on this board to help you out with any questions that you may have about a ka-t setup.
I will take that challenge! 2000-6000… wait do KA’s go that high?.. doesn’t even matter.
Lets raise the stakes…
2000-7000
and a coffee for wager.
Indeed!
I could go on forever but a few points…
– Before boosting make sure the engine is healthy and has good compression, way more important than actual mileage
– Use good parts and assemble carefully
– Test everything thoroughly (AFR’s/wideband, oil lines to turbo not leaking etc) before pushing the car at all
– Keep an eye on things and “listen” to your car
– Try 6-7 PSI before you think you need 10, you might be surprised at the pull
And a million more…basically, it’s all in the execution.
Oh, and in the ultimate irony, I just bought an Audi S4 the other day and my KA-T will be up for sale soon! 
Brap brap! My friend might be getting one of those, is it the 2.7TT or the gay, but more attractive looking V8?
aem ems is the safest bet with the ka-t , ya’ll need wideband as well or tuned ecu , safc is not enough ya’ll damage the engine pretty quick with no timing done
2001, so the 2.7 Biturbo… :naughty:
yea safc isnt good for KAT because you cannot tune the ignition timing maps shit. all it does is fool the ecu with a different mafs reading. if you do go this route make sure you turn the dizzy timing a few degrees back to be safe. and make sure you get a wideband. as people said, tuning is the key. and at 7psi on a small little SR T25 was more torque than i ever experienced in my life. it was damn fast.
if you do a T25 setup its not any harder than a SR swap and you get way more fun if everything is done right!
Wrong!!! the stock rods are good for 450whp or 500whp, the weak piont on the ka is the pistons. Change the piston, put in ARP rod bolts main bolts, get a good tune( JWT, AEM, etc) not SAFC.
KA24de half built with stock head, block comes with CP or Wiseco pistons, APR head bolts, rod bolt, ACL bearings, cometic gasket. for $2000.00 with eagle Rods $2300.00
If you put dual valve springs and cams you would be able to rev up to 7500, instead of 6grand.
Nitescreen you have seen what a KA24DE-t can do!!! lol.
Depending on your skill level. You have to find and make oil and coolant feed lines. You have to take off and bung the oil pan for the return line. You have to change the injectors to 370’s. Tee off the stock oil pressure sensor for the oil feed line, etc etc.
Yes it is easy but its alot more work then tightning a few bolts and connecting a few wires. I guess it depends on your skill level and what you want in your car.
I love KA-T and thats the only 4 cylinder i would do.
Exactly how fast is 7000rpm in 5th with stock gearing…
I drink tea though… milk and sugar please.
I had no idea they can handle that much…but i guess with a good tune anything is possible. I just thought that the stock KA motor had a pretty high compression rate, okay for an NA, but not so great for turbo applications.
In any case, I don’t want this to be another SR Vs. KA thread…that shit has been done too much
All I have to say is that if you’re thinking of going KA, just don’t cheap out. Just do it right the first time so that you don’t spend the rest of the time trying to figure out why your engine blew, and then replacing things…and then re-tuning…etc etc etc…
But yeah, you’ll definitly have fun with it once it’s boosted
come on Draggone spell my name proper… lol… and Draggone should know cause he’s done it before with no issues!!
I think i can i think i can do it!!
Very similar to driving any car in the winter…
– Warm up the car properly, warm down if having boosted as well
– Only boost when car is totally warmed up (turbo at operating temp)
– Shift gently when car is cold
– You WILL need winter tires
– Weight in the rear DOES help, in virtually every way (adds traction from a stop and in turns too, providing you don’t create a silly amount of momentum)
It’s all in how you drive it. All of my winter “issues” over the years that I can recall were “N/A 240sx” related - a tie rod end had play, a ball joint, starter motor began to tire out (all 3 fixed easily), and just door locks/cylinders HATE the cold… 
That’s all I can really think of…
what tire specs you KA-T ppl running and how modded is your suspension? what can i get away with
keep it stock unless u plan on drift/drag/track
^^^ why to spin tires like Tony!!! and run a high 12sec in the 1/4 with a car that could run low 11s or high 10s.
I am running 275/18/(35 I think) $400 for both.
But for know just run the stock tires for now.
can I jump in this challenge too?
TEAM DRAGGONE has made a challenge!!