Hallo everyone! I think about turbocharging my ka24, and the turbo needs hi-pressure oil line, as well as coolant line to be attached to it. I wonder, where I can cut in with a pipe on the engine to get oil for the turbo? Does anyone have experience installing turbo on stock engine, what’s yr opinion on all that?
den
Go to ka-t.org, you’ve got a lot of researching to do buddy, don’t even attempt it before at least a month of solid reading.
Plan your setup according to deals you find, that’s the most efficient way. Hit up redpotatoes, he’s got a GT2560R for sale. Running a coolant line can be a hassle and another thing to go wrong, but it does keep the turbo in better condition if you don’t cool down before you shut off the car. Most people don’t run one.
For the oil line, you can get a sandwich plate adapter which relocates the oil filter and has outputs for an oil pressure sensor (to go to a gauge) and for an oil line for the turbo. For the return line, you have to drill a hole in the oil pan, above the oil level, and weld in a bung.
For manifold you can either go topmount or bottom mount, and since you’re starting off I suggest getting a cheap eBay bottom mount and installing a T28 turbo. For injectors you can run 370cc’s for cheap if you want low boost, if you want more go with 550cc’s.
For tuning, don’t go SAFC alone, you will most likely detonate and blow the engine. Get a ROM tune such as EFI specialist.
Do some reading, please, before you blow your piston ringlands.
Thanks, Ahmad, I knew ka24 is not that easy to work with, how many psi do you think you can run without a metal gasket?
just get the metal head gasket. call varun aka “slipperysilvia” good price! and +1 for ahmad. go to ka-t.org and look at the picture threads and ka-t tech basic. is this single cam or dual?
+1 for ka-t!!!
Twin cam, someone told me ka24 head is a bit weak for boost, would 10-12 psi be ok?
To get oil to your turbo, you can simply use an adapter like this one:
Looks like this installed
Just remove your oil pressure unit from the factory location, screw this one in and add your oil pressure unit back. You will have ports that you can feed oil to the turbo.
For the coolant line, even if some don’t run it, I say do it. It’s easy to do and it’s there for a reason so why not use them.
You don’t need a metal head gasket if you want to turbo you engine. The key on ka24de-t is a good tuning. Don’t over boost and you will be fine. If you want to have a daily driver, I would suggest 10psi.
My best advise would be to take your time and get to most information you need before buying parts. What do you want to do with the car? Daily car, drag, drift, is it your second car ?? This can change the way you build your setup.
Anyways, if you need more information, I will be glad to help you out.
It’s been proven an FMU is safe with a walbro fuel pump, the cheapest option that’s mechanical which helps to boost stock fuel injector pressure with the turbo…T25, an 8:1 and 7-8 psi is perfectly safe and fine. Although, anything over that like 10psi, best to work with bigger injectors and a good tune whether it be a rom tune, a piggyback or a standalone depending on your budget. Good luck! I’m finally completing the ka-t setup and install this winter while the S13 is in garage storage, patience is key and lots of research.
p.s - no matter what, get wideband so you know how your A\F ratios are doing, that’ll be key to your tuning and motor condition down the road.
Thanks for info, and for the pics, I’d never notice that sensor, how many times I looked at the engine from all sides, basically 10 psi, maybe 12 is the target. Altough car is a daily driver:) Soo, and the stock injectors will be no good even for 10 psi? Walbro fuel pump would be then a solution. What about MAF? Just leave it as it was?
370cc, N60 or N62 maf with a walbro fuel pump.
I wouldnt go past 10psi without a dyno tune…just my .02
Don’t those adapters like to unscrew themselves or break from the KA’s excellent smoothness? lol
Also avoid a metal HG like the plague, its quite common to see people with leaking issues because of minor imperfections when decking the head. It has to literally be a mirror shine to work.
Felpro headgaskets have been known to safely hold 400+whp. If you’re not aiming above that, don’t even bother with a cometic.
About running 10psi, stock internals are totally capable, as long as you tune the timing and AFR’s correctly. I also advise you to avoid the FMU setup, just go with 370cc SR injectors, N60 MAF and a ROM tune for them. Get it fine tuned later by originaldriftmaster or w/e his name is. I believe he reflashes the installed chip with a finer tune after dynoing, since every car is different, and the mail order ROM tunes are often tuned very conservatively. You can pick up some decent mpg and hp from a better tune.
Also avoid the T25 turbo, its a heatpump, look at the compressor map and plot the KA at any boost level, you’ll see why. They make instaspool and awesome torque, however fail miserably at the top end, even on SR’s… The least you should go with is a T28, and a bottom mount mani. If going top mount, T3/T4 or frankenstein junkyard T3 is your best option.
In the meantime, keep reading, and reading, and reading…ka-t.org is your friend.
Really? Maybe some people had bad experiences, I know I never had with it.
I’m assuming the adapters you mentioned were made of brass. I read several threads with the old school KA-T’ers suggesting to avoid them unless for non-long term use.
I’m just giving advice based on the hundreds of hours of reading. lol I’ve never gone KA-T before, had to sell my kit before I installed it. I’d love to start the parts collecting again, but I’m living in res at uni. $$$$$$$
WHO TOLD YOU THAT? slap them for me. Check this guy car out, also check his videos too. He is running a stock head ( no port n polish) just cams bigger valves an springs. KA-T.org - The Home of 1000+ whp/7 sec Turbo KA's
Please do your research first, save your money get the right parts and build your car once NOT twice.
Yee those pics are encouraging! And Florida is the right place to do it, winterbeaters take some rest:)
Oil issue again: Has anyone tried to place oil return line into the small air pipe that sticks out of the head cover? Sounds crazy, but oil’s supposed to go there anyways? The only problem I see is that’s it’s gonna interfere with air pressure inside the head?
Do you still do welding, Draggone?
ya no that wont work 
for several different reasons:
drill the pan and be done!
yeah, drill the oil pan out, and have a return bung welded on. it’s a pain in the ass if the motor’s in the car, but worth it 100 times over. you’ll have to unbolt the front x-member, and the engine from the x-member, then jack up the engine, and yank down on the x-member to get the oil pan out.
complete pain in the ass, but do-able. worst part is the bolts holding the oil pan to the block abover where the x-member is, if i remember correctly.
Wouldn’t it be easier to just pull the motor out? Then you can do the PCV valve, and the knock sensor and all that annoying crap. Plus you can stand in the engine bay and feel awesome. lol
I’v seen people doing just that, lifting tha engine, theres too much stuff to do on it, would be worth it. Ahmad, standing in da engine bay is dangerous, what if someone sits on da hood, or even worse, starts da car >:O
But. Can you just drill the oil pan, and weld a nut on it, or you have to take it off to clean the stuff that falls in from drillin? How’bout drilling a small additional hole in the head cover, so not plugging the air relief pipe, isnt there oil pressure @ the oil filter to push id ap, kazuma?
I have that line and pan for sale along with a coolant line.
$100.00 high quality pieces.
