I have been trying to figure this freaking thing out for awhile. I hope someone has an idea to help me out. Anyways, at idle(my car idles at 800 rpm) it’ll be idling fine, then all of a sudden it’ll hiccup(that’s what I call it, could be misfiring) and drop around 50 rpm, but it’ll recover itself fine. This doesn’t seem to be affecting the performance, but I do get the random flame out of the exhaust pipe when I’m slowing down and downshifting. Okay, I’ve replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, did the timing, checked all of the vaccuum hoses, ran seafoam through my engine, and also cleaned the pair valve. What else could it be guys? Could it be the Coil? How can I test the coil? Could it be the egr is gummed up?(if so I’m removing it in the next week for the turbo) Could it be the AIV is gummed up? Could it be the tps?(it didn’t seem to do it when the tps was unplugged, when I was setting the timing, but I could be too high and might not have noticed it) Please someone help me, Please!!!
Oh and another question, my master cylinder seems to be seeping out the bottom. Do I just need to replace the gasket or something? or do I need a new master cylinder? Thanks for any and all answers guys.
my KA has that similar hiccup. only recently starting doing it. seems to have some kind of misfire every 2-5 seconds. i replaced my cap, rotor and wires and it didnt do too much. if you figure out what the problem is let me know
Check your timing. What do your spark plugs look like? Might not be getting enough fuel because of clogged fuel filter? weak fuel pump? How is it when you drive normally? is it just at idle?
Check your timing. What do your spark plugs look like? Might not be getting enough fuel because of clogged fuel filter? weak fuel pump? How is it when you drive normally? is it just at idle?
My plugs are only a month old and my fuel filter is brand new. The car runs perfect while driving, its just at idle it seems to have that misfire. You can barely notice when the car does it, sometimes it doesnt do it at all. I am doubtful it has anything to do with my fuel pump, but i get them cheap enough it wouldnt hurt to replace it. The timing does need to be checked though, that could be one of my problems.
It seems like the RPM drop that some people experience with their KA’s has to do with either the PS pump or the Alt. or a combination of both. When i go to make a U turn and turn my wheel all the way to one side my RPMs will drop suddenly for a brief second. It seems like the PS pump pulley slows down which then slows down the crank pulley etc. As well with the Alternator problem, my RPMs only seem to drop at night while my lights etc are on. Also, at idle, if you have power windows, press up and hold on both buttons as if you were going to roll both windows up at the same time. The RPMs seem to drop for some reason when there is too many accesories working at once (lights, stereo, etc) My RPMs will sometimes drop very low right at start up. As soon as i turn the key the revs go up, then back down, but instead of going back down to idle, they go to 100-300 RPM’s, only for a second, but it feels like the car is going to die. Its not an everyday occurance, only happens once a week or so. :roll:
I forgot to say, I did replace the fuel filter too, and yes it only happens at idle. There is no surge or misfire at wot or when cruising. Basically only when my foot isn’t on the gas pedal. Oh, and I’ve never replaced my coolant temp sensor in the past 2 years I’ve had the car, should I? Which one should I change, the ecu one or the FI one? Oh and could I use a master cylinder from a junked 240sx, as long as that one isn’t seeping when it’s on the junk car before I take it off?
WELL how adout idle control valve? did u guys bother to see if its working/clean .
MaF/TPs outputs proper voltage. Ignition timing(base is set 15 for E 20 DE).Properly gapped plugs.when was O2 changed last Hickup most of the time would be a vaccum leak …first things first just unplup EGR see if it sticking
honestly i suggest all of you ka owners do this …remove useless crap that plugs up and causes problems. EGR AIV Purge cansiter etc… if you take intake manifold off toss those buterflies away. That takes hmm 10-20 minutes 1 hour if you not toofamaliar. and keeps ur motor clean , better idle and overall it runs smother. :partyman:
How do I remove the butterflies? I am going to pull the top part of my intake manifold off and remove most of the emissions system when I put the turbo in, which I will be starting this week.
yeah I’m pretty sure all that EGR shit is for california cars anyways. Everyone should run a test pipe too, I’m serious! No more cloggin, replacing rusted on cats eiter. Just remember to re-route a couple hoses where they would originally go for the EGR
This is a bit of a flier as I don’t know anything about your engine control, but mine has a fuel cut rpm setting that I believe is there to cut fuel (how about that eh?) under zero throttle conditions during decelleration. When rpms drop below this threshold (1200 rpm for me) then the ECU calls for fuel again.
If you’ve got a similar function in your ECU and the tach signal to the ECU was slightly flakey you could get fuel cut happening at idle…
I think I found the problem, there was huge hole in on of my vacuum hoses from the egr to the egr-bpt thingy beside it. Oh well, I removed most of my emissions for the turbo install. I haven’t started the car yet, so I don’t know whether this is the real problem behind the bad idle, but I hope it is, since it was a pretty big hole.
It could be your MAF. my car was doing the exact same thing, only it would stall right out sometimes too. I took out my MAF, cleaned the elements really carefully with electrical contact cleaner and it runs smooth now. Hope that helps you out.
the little miss fire sound that you can hear, means your engine running at about 16-17:1 AFR when you engine reach its opperating temperature (80deg C). to have a smooth idle the engine need to run between 13-15:1 AFR. you can have the ecu tune or get a fuel regulator and raise your rail pressure up a bit.
I have a safc and wideband, so as soon as I finish this install I can tune the afr’s. But yeah, I want a eprom and daughterboard , so please pm me with details, I pm’d you with the spec’s I’d want tuned onto the eprom, I’m just waiting on a price from you, thanx.
