Ka's with header and 3 inch exhuast

Hehe i have a non resinated, silencer free 3" bee*R, with a can of about 9" diameter with a 7" long 5" diameter tip i imported from japan, most of the packign is blown out of it… it looks hot under the car… while i was drivign it i never noticed it to be to un bearable in fact it sounded great… talking in the cabin wasn’t too bad but you could really feel the sound… after drivign a stock car again all winter it 's mutha fuckin loud haha… if i shift it really low it’s not too bad…

i use to have a test pipe too, i really don’t think havign a real cat again made it much quieter… but then it is a magnaflow

All that shows is how restrictive the OEM part overall… not how a 3" compares to a 2…25/2.5/2.75" exhaust system… If you’d like some proof of this basic, common knowledge concept, take a look at corky bells book, maximum boost, in there he lays out an easy to read chart of sizing and flow rates through a given diameter…

heres an easy to read explination, this works for ALL internal combustion engines…

http://www.miata.net/garage/KnowYourCar/S4_Back.html

bigger, it seems, is not always better… unless your a ricer… then bigger is ‘da bomb’…

you got proof to back that up? 3in exhaust will make more power EVERYWHERE in the KA’s powerband.

It’s been proven over and over, 80mm piping on a ka n/a = no losses anywhere in the power band.

booya! just one of the many countless threads that are out there with dynographs that prove KA’s love 3in exhaust with as little restrition as possible.

BIGGER IS BETTER.[/quote]

Currently have a 5zigen fireball cat back (2.5") I replaced the downpipe(precat and second cat) with a custom frontpipe 2.5" and a 2.5" highflow cat. It is loud but not annoying, between 3000~4000rpm is where it’s the loudest. Highway is ok. Nice deep sporty sound and performance are good too. BTW this is on a S14.

i’ve read maximum boost many times, great book to checkout for everyone that hasnt yet.

the point i was making was you said that 3in would not necessarily be beneficial to a N/A ka and that you would lose low end power and barely gain any top end… i just wanted to point out that this is a common misconception and that 3in piping is a good match for the KA.

generally a 3 inch exhuast on a ka is not going to net you any real power gains.

i had a 3 inch on my lightly modded ka and all it did was make it loud, as well i lost low end TQ because of the HEAVY lack of back pressure from the 3 inch pipes.

its been proven that going with a nice 2.25 or 2.5 inch pipe on an NA car will be the best of both worlds leaving you with a decent TQ band and still gaining you some hp as well.

unless you plan to go turbo id stick with some nice 60 mm piping and call it a day.

GT

i just picked up a 3" cat back, from what i see that it not realy recomended, but hey , it was a deal

Ive got a new header with a 2.5" outlet then through 2.5" pipe through a high flow cat then through a 2.5" magnaflow muffler and out two 3" tips.

The sound is amazing, you can hear every cylinder firing at any rpm. It has a real nice rumble at idle and it can be loud at 3 - 4K rpm but on the highway at 100 - 120 is tolerable. To someone with sensitive hearing it might bother them. Doesnt bother me but I work in a plant with tons of loud equipment all day so I guess I might have an immunity to the sound of the exhaust.

The stock exhaust piping is f*cking terrible. It’s narrow, it’s got too many bends, the bends are all kinked because they’re crush-bent and anything is an improvement. So yes, a 3" exhaust will make power over a stock exhaust, but a 2.5" will make more.

Backpressure is always bad. There’s no such thing as good backpressure. This is a myth, repeated by dumbass to dumbass that has somehow lasted through a century of advances in car modification. This lie originated because tuners would notice a loss of low-end and a gain in high-end when going to larger pipes, and the opposite when going smaller. Being ignorant Americans with the worst education system in the world, they attributed this to the only phenomenon their puny brains could remember: backpressure. In fact, the reason is quite different.

It’s all about maintaining velocity. You know how sucking a drink through a straw is really hard through a small straw, and really hard through a huge straw? The same goes for engines - intakes and exhausts.

In an N/A application, the intake, intake manifold, valves, cams, exhaust ports, header and exhaust are - under ideal circumstances - matched so that they will help make peak power together. The key to this is encouraging a velocity stack on the intake side and perfect scavenging on the exhaust side.

Your engine has four cycles - intake, compression, combustion, and exhaust. The ones we’re concerned with are naturally the intake and exhaust cycles. Each cylinder needs to make two full revolutions to produce power. In a simple theoretical model, it has to use power to suck in the air, and it has to use power to push the exhaust out. Furthermore, in this simple theoretical model, since the piston is never actually as large as the entire volume of the cylinder, and since it must clear the exhaust valves, it cannot push all the exhaust out. As a consequence:

  1. An engine never fills up completely on fresh air, with that all-important oxygen.
  2. An engine must expend some of the energy it creates to push out the exhaust, and suck in fresh air.

Now, I’ll cover a velocity stack briefly because it’s less important and helps illustrate scavenging better. Remember, air can have momentum too - this is what you perceive as wind. Once an engine gets the air in an intake going, it can generate momentum for that air to reduce the delay between which the intake valves open and the cylinder is ready to take in the air. The air will already have momentum and be pushing towards the intake valves and into the engine. More air = more power.

On the exhaust side, you have scavenging. As with the intake stroke, the exhaust stroke occurs every four times. In between, you have spaces of nothing. You can kinda (but not really) feel this when you hold your hand up to your exhaust - that pulsing is actually the combined effect of multiple cylinders, rather than just one at a time, but if you remember your physics you’ll note that nature abhors a vacuum. Where there is vacuum, gas will rush in to fill the space. That means that the next time there’s an exhaust cycle, the exhaust will come out a little on its own, with less effort from the engine. The key is to try and create a larger vacuum, and to do that you need to keep the exhaust gases moving. You might think that bigger is better, but bigger will cause the gases, and their energy, to dissipate and slow down. Too small, and the gases will be under too much pressure and they will also slow down - and worse, the engine will have the actively pump them out (hello backpressure!) The best way to imagine this is to think of blowing air bubbles into water through a straw. Again, with a small straw, it’s hard to blow a lot - but fairly easy to maintain a constant but low flow of air. With a big straw, it’s easier to blow more, but it’s much harder to do a little.

The engine also doesn’t produce the same volume of air at different RPMs - at high RPMs it needs more air and expels more exhaust, and at low RPMs you have the opposite. So what you need then, is, an ideal size for your idealized RPM range that works with the RPM range your cams and intake and IM and head are designed for. You want the velocity stack, valve lift and timing, and scavenging effect to harmonize at the same peak.

^^^ WTF essay :ugh:

^^^^jeleousy

i’ve read maximum boost many times, great book to checkout for everyone that hasnt yet.

the point i was making was you said that 3in would not necessarily be beneficial to a N/A ka and that you would lose low end power and barely gain any top end… i just wanted to point out that this is a common misconception and that 3in piping is a good match for the KA.[/quote]

dude, dont you know that actual dyno results are not really evidence when you are arguing with Ian (BAS).

i’m afraid you will have to do better than showing actual results of people using 3" exhuast and not losing any low end torque while gaining reasonable HP up top.

what could be better than actual dyno results?.. who knows?!

Low un-asked for Blow

W0rd ^ Especially since spite provided a perfect explanation with scientific fact as well as analogies for everyone to understand.

i have hotshot headers, to a 2.5" cat to 2.5" crush bent, thats right, crush bent piping on a magna flow exhaust, and its still freakin loud.

headers on a 3" will be nuts man.

my ears ring after 30 min of driving. i love it sure, but its still loud.

i suggest smaller piping, or atleast a silencer on the 3"

get a turbo,
best silencer i ever got

i just got pulled over three days ago for my exhuast, so i put my silencer in the other day and felt some toque back this is a 3 incher

Helps with high end power and mid range torque :wink: