[quote=“Jim1234664,post:12,topic:28775"”]
what happened to the wrx?
[/quote]
We decided based on the money to power to weight to reliability aspects of it. It was the best choice based on her wants. (And Mine 
)
The hp per lb out of a miata boosting 12lbs is phenomenal and yeah, it baisicly is like boosting a civic so no worries as far as complexity.
I think that it would be the most fun car to drive ever
Look for a 1999 they do not have variable valve timing this is a good thing for turboing a miata. Get the light weight flywheel while you’re at it, if you make any real power over stock you will want a stronger clutch soon.
The good news is they love boost and come with oil squirters on the underside of the pistons.
What will you be doing with this car? More auto-x more or more track days? Let me know then I can give you some suspension tips.
Luke, NY, pre '95 is better for not having to do “work arounds” for emissions.
Extra oil squirters = meh in my book. Tons of engines doing over 400whp without them.
she is looking at a 99 as a matter of fact.
Also, thoughts on the LSD, were not sure whether this one has it or not but for track/quarter how much are we going to miss without one?
where’d neurokinetik go?
i know man. there’s a black one out here with black rims that looks awesome 
i keep thinking about one of these eventually.
Mike, my first choice would be a 1994 then a 1995 but it seemed they wanted the later body style.
the 94 and 95 have 4.10 rear end the 99+ have a 4.30 rear end stock.
the torsen is nice to have over the open rear end. the best way to check for the LSD is to get the VIN and call mazda they will tell you how the car shipped.
also, for the rear end… i recall reading about being able to swap in an fc rx7 turboII lsd in there, and those can be had rather cheap :tup:
yes you can here is some info on the swap from: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/165576/16
RX-7 LSD FAQ
Q: I have a X Miata, what do I need?
A: NA 1.6 Miatas will need, in addition to the parts for a 1.8 build, a 1.8 driveshaft,1.8 axles, and 1.8 diff housing. All 1.8 Miatas are directly compatible - both one piece and two piece axles designs work. One piece axles typically require the RX-7 circlip for installation, two piece axle owners typically purchase RX-7 halfshafts.
Q: Should I have my diff rebuilt prior to installation?
A: First, remember by now these diffs are ~20 years old. I highly recommend rebuilding a “new” 7 diff before installation!!! The first two 7 diffs I installed (two Miatas) lasted one year of street/autocross use before requiring a rebuild. With the costs of parts & labor it is cheaper (and a time saver) to have it rebuilt prior to installation.
Q: OK, so what do I need to rebuild it?
A: That is tough as other owners have reported slightly different combinations upon dissassembly! All 3 diffs that I have are '86-88 units and used:
6 M020-27-258 -FRICTION PLATE $17.05 $102.30
2 M020-27-256 - WASHER $23.60
$47.20
AND
2 M020-27-257 - WASHER $23.60
$47.20
TOTAL $196.70
Pricing from Mazdaspeed c2004. Please note that 4 washers total are required but can be any mix. See the question about “lockup” below for more information.
Q: Lockup setting? Washers? Huh?!
A: The washers spec’d above are two thickenesses and can actually be combined in any fashion you’d like. More thick washers create more lockup, I chose to split the difference because my car is daily driven. I would consider a full thick washer setup for a race only Miata and full thin for street only. I believe the total lockup range is 30%-45% but will admit to not being positive
Q: Any other maintence parts I should get?
A: Yes, spend the $5ea on two new axles seals regardless of age/condition of the old ones. For $10 why have a potential leak?
Q: What kind of oil do you recommend?
A: Sythentic WITHOUT friction modifiers.
Q: My diff makes funny noises and/or shudders during some low speed/high steering input manuevers. What gives?
A: You have discovered a drawback to a clutch-type LSD, because they are always functioning to some extent at low speeds it can have some chattering or shuddering. This is normal and should not be a concern. Excessive shuddering can be caused by improper lube or a diff with a too aggressive lockup setting.
www.solomiata.com is an excellent resource for the RX-7 swap and is how I originally discovered it.
Why not start with a Mazdaspeed? Why try to create something that the factory probably already did a better job of doing?
if you can swing a mazdaspeed it would be the way to go, for under $1,500 you will have 200 whp in a sub 2,600lbs car. stock ECU stock turbo stock injectors and a cat