is it usually packed on wednesdays? i might roll there
It is usually empty there on wed. Thats why I go.
So I am about to pull my dash. Even with the new alt and battery I am getting around 12.8v at the coils and injectors. 14.3 everywhere else. I traced it back and found a clusterfuck in my hinson conversion harness. This “pre-wired” conversion is the biggest POS ever. If anyone wants to help out with pulling the dash or figuring out the electrical feel free. I would love to race the car tomorrow.
WTF prewired cconversion harness? There are like…maybe 10 wires to connect.
is any of there stuff not junk?
No, but they get the job done, in a very half-assed way. There are much much better products to buy for a swap though.
Agreed on all accounts. So here is what is happening.
Main fuse block power is 14.3v when running.
I test wiring to the blue wire on the back side of the EGI(i think) relay and only see 12.6v This connects to the black/white wire that connects to the red wire that connects to the pink wire that drives the inj and coils. So we are seeing almost a 2v drop here. \
So figuring the voltage drop could be the relay I connect the red wire to a verified switched source that was reading 14.3v and wammy it wont even start the car 10.8v
So for whatever reason the red to pink wire is causing a large draw in voltage and the pink wire is split to a few places.
I am thinking I will now try rewiring from red to pink(larger ga wire) and see if I can limit the retarded amount of splicing from the pink wire(I would assume everything that needed switched power hinson grabbed from here). So as of now I am stumped but have a few ideas. Hopefully I can get my coils and inj to over 13v soon. I still might race the car tomorrow for fun.
---------- Post added at 09:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:20 PM ----------
So to try to fix wiring we had to start it a bunch tonight ~10pm and the cops came cause my neighbor two doors down called again LOL. Needless to say I told the cop what I was doing and why I had to start it a bunch. He said all was good and I continued to star/troubleshoot the car till around midnight and came in. Man i wish this neighbor was capable of adult rational conversation and I could explain the situation. But until then LOLZZZZZZZZZZZZ on you cause im starting the shit out of my car.
You need to explain to your neighbor that you have matured because with your last car you would fire it up at 3am with open headers to watch it shoot flames :lol:
I used to try really hard to only work on my car before 10pm and certainly not start it too late anymore. But these people are to the point now where they just call the cops as soon as they hear my car start if I am out there working on it. Obv the cops do nothing. I will continue to wave and smile when I see said jackass neighbor. I do not feel the need to take any action since he has a super ugly and loud annoying wife and two shitty ghetto ass kids. I would be equally as bitter.
Damn I wish I could have fixed this thing last night. I am debating if I want to race it tonight.
I told you I would think about this in my sleep.
The voltage drop at the Fuel Pump Relay, not EGI, is due to the Red/Pink to Black and White wire. We need to trace that wire from the Black wire to the ECU. Then find where the switched voltage comes into the ECU.
Test both of those.
If we can find where it is spliced I am guessing that line is fucked. When we hooked up the red line directly to switched power it only read ~10 Volts. When we disconnected the Black wire we bypassed the EGI and second Fuel Pump relay. Since it was lower it looks like it should be that line.
So you think it is the red wire then? That red wire connects to black right where I was pinning black last night. Then it goes right over into the ls1 harness and connects to pink. I agree that this should be our problem but I think the problem is connections or how it is wired in. I was thinking of cutting the two pink wires and putting them to that switched power source to try to fix it that way.
i had a similar problem i found last night. my one wire from the alt was cut and sparking on the fuel pressure reg. lol i was like wtf was that, SPARK oh shit
Good thing you found that one haha.
I am going to try a few more things then decide if im going to the track. I want to race its just hard to motivate myself to race the car instead of trying to fix it.
Not sure what sort of negative consequences would come of racing it now, except for slower shittier times… but wouldn’t you want the car as close to 100% first?
I have been running 11.0 all season like this. In fact I have done a few things and gotten the voltage much better and probably have 40rwhp more then I did before. Sure ideally it would be better to have it all 100% then race but the bottom line is that racing will still be fun. Car is still going to be faster then most of you newbs lol and I just dont want to keep missing track days as the season will be done before we know it.
I rewired a few things and am getting right around 13v now to the ignition. I think I am just asking too much from the wire itself so I am going to try taking it off of the spliced power and wiring it to the battery and using a relay to make it switched power. Wish me luck.
Just talked to Pat and im racing tonight so see some of you at NYI
:tup: see you guys there
i will not be attending tonight even though i want to.
Just come ya homo.
If this doesn’t work then does that mean the ECU is shot? What are the chances on that?
Congrats man! 10.95 with a late launch lol, nice!