So the last drift event of the year is coming in about a week and I had to get my HKS exhaust repaired, I decided to try sequence garage.
The shop is located at weston rd / eglinton, just south off black creek drive. It was relatively easy to find.
I called them yesterday and brought my stuff in today (sunday) at 3pm. They took a look at the condition of the exhaust which many would say be a difficult job but Sasha and his crew without any fear went ahead and figured it out all easily. I was honestly worried at first whether it could be done but things went pretty smooth which was really rewarding in the end.
The quality of work was really good, Sequence Garage is not like other shops where they just want to ghetto rig your shit and rob your wallet. Sasha welded the pieces for me with race-quality welds, they were rather strong than anything, solder wasnt splattered everywhere and they double checked for leaks after every weld.
I am now too partly powered by Sequence-Garage. Props to Sasha and Sequence Garage for helping me out quickly without any hassle and hope to see them succeed.
how much did this cost you? how long abouts did sequence garage take? I ask because I need my exhaust welded because of the half ass job the other guy who did my exhaust did. I need
pretty much i need two new 90 degree bends re-made and welded to the can and make sure it doesnt hit the FRAME!, How much was your exhaust to do?
It’s not about the price. It’s about the quality of the work. It’s obvious that all you seem to care about is the price. Just do it right the first time. If you want it done cheap, go somewhere else. (Not implying in any way that Sequence Garage is expensive) I would probably go to Sequence if I needed quality work done.
That’s the problem with SON, everyone is too interested in getting everything for the “cheapest” price. And then they complain how bad the product or service is after.
Just go rent a welder and do it yourself. Cheapest solution!
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That’s the problem with SON, everyone is too interested in getting everything for the “cheapest” price. And then they complain how bad the product or service is after.
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:ugh:
Sure it’s not about the price but when the work comes with a bill that
reads “Rape-Me-In-The-Ass”, then yes, I’m sure to some it will matter.
Just 'cause something costs more doesn’t mean it’s the best.
Last year I got my KA flywheel resurfaced by a shop and I got charged
$70. I looked at it after I got it and they f*cked up and made the step on
it un-even. I had to send it back for them to resurface/fix it.
Compare it to a shop that varun took my SR flywheel to and it cost
a lot less and it was done right, and right the first time.
Just less than a month ago I’ve started to learn how to weld, so as a result of that my prices are very very very very very very very reasonable when it comes to fabrication work. I take my time with what I do and make sure everything is as close as I can get it and then I lay down the best bead I can. Since I haven’t been fabbing for 20 years I obviously can’t charge the same prices, however since I really take my time with what i’m doing the work usually comes out very close in quality (however the welds are not as asthetically pleasing since I use a mig and am not prostar yet)
I told this to vlad and he was very interested so we took care of his little project for him. Haha I don’t quite think the welds are “race quality” welds, however if your definition of race quality is that it will work, not break, seal the exhaust and take abuse then yea I guess they are “race welds” When I get a tig in a few months (after I get mig down 100%) I’ll start to practice a lot and then i’ll be posting up welds that I am very proud of, well that’s the plan anyways.
Basically, for the next 6months or so any fab work you guys want you’re sorta lucky. You’ll be paying zoro muffler prices for work that is (and will constantly improve) pretty good (I have high standards for good fab work)
The reason for this is it gives me practice in a wide range of environments. Sure anyone can go and buy metal and weld it together, but unless you’re actually doing projects it is hard to replicate and learn from the different challenges each project has to offer.
sasha any chance you have a Smart Camber and Smart Strings at the shop? Or anything of the sort?
I’m going to need an alignment when I get my car back and I’d rather go to you to have it done then anywhere since you’ve got the experience with 240s that I’d like to take advantage of.
haha sorry dude the closest thing I have to anything alignment related right now is my eyes and a measuring tape, but kipling tire is pretty good and they would be happy to put in the specs you tell them
seriously though, have you looked in to getting either or both? they arent expensive - just a little more time consuming to use but supposed to be extremely accurate if you master the trigonometry thats involved
how do u make ur decision on camber? now that i have coilover and multi link i want to know what kind of set up to run when i get my alignment. I heard that some camber is good
its all a tradeoff, to a certain extent more neg. camber will product more grip in a corner but at the same time you’ll eat your tires up quicker
its slightly more complicated than that, especially when you factor in toe
the general idea of toe is the same, toe in is ideal for high speed stability, zero toe is ideal for tire wear and toe out is ideal for turn-in responsiveness… toe in or out produce faster tirewear however…
again, these are just the basics, there are plenty of other factors as well
Neglecting to get an alignment or improper alignment can hurt performance and make driving un-fun. This will be very basic explanation of different settings (recommended race settings are for a rear wheel drive car, 240sx etc)
Camber - During cornering a tire will get maximum traction at negative camber due to bodyroll, tire roll, suspension travel. By adding stiffer coilovers you can minimize the movement and it will help keep the static settings. Fronts will see more load so more camber is recommended. Camber plates and adjustable rear upper control arm recommended. Good starting point - 3deg front/ 1.5 deg rear
Caster - Positive steering pivot angle helps with high speed stability,cornering response and helps straighten the steering when going forward. Generally speaking more caster is better. Too much caster will make the steering feel heavy. Excessive caster will add negative camber to the outside wheel during turning, altering static camber settings. Sometimes you will lose some steering angle. Adjustable tension rods recommended. Good starting point - 1-2 deg over stock setting.
TOE - Front: Toe in (not recommended) will help with straight line stability, encourages understeer. Toe out (advanced driver) will enhance turn-in response, encourages oversteer, too much will create bump steer and scrub. Good starting point - 0 toe or slight toe out
Rear: Toe in will help with stability under acceleration, good control at high speeds, encourages understeer Toe out - ( not recommended, advanced driver) Car will feel funny(4ws), hard to control under acceleration, very easy to go sideways. Good starting point - 0 toe or slight toe in."
