My Suspension Restoration Project

I didnt Powder Coat any of the hardware etc… It was just coated with some Tremclad (Spray paint) just to prevent rust for as long as possible and this way everything looks nice onces its back together.

IF, I did Powder Coat it then yes, it would be to thick at the threads and you would run into issues but it would never chip away (its to strong) you’d actually end up stripping the threads.

Very nice work. I really like how everything turned out. The titanic sea excursion standard s chassis cancer hubs turned out amazing with that flat black. Keep it up.

i agree those hubs look freaking awesome.

thanks for the info jeff, good to know!

man like every other car maniac on here, im so jelious of your oportunity to use your dads shop. this should be a show spec car after this man. i hope i see you on the streets sometime and see this sick suspension set up.

Baffle Plate/Rotor Shield… I originally had to cut them up to fit the 280mm rotor so figured I would trim them down the rest of the way so that their only purpose is to seal off the back side of the hub/bearing etc etc so no crap gets in.

Front Hubs with new Bearings

Front Control Arms with new Ball Joints

Areas in the Front End that I wanted to clean up a bit… I removed anything loose/flaky and as much rust as possible. I then cleaned/whipped it down with a chemical used in our Powder Coating to further help with adhesion prior to priming it.

I’m going to coat all the areas tomorrow in a flat black once the primer has hardened over night etc… then once the black is dry and hardened I will be coating the harder to get at areas with some gravel guard as the rest will be oil sprayed once I’ve finished but plan is to have the front end assembled and the rear end a part by Monday at the absolute latest!

Went in this morning briefly and put a few coats of flat black on over the primer. Paint was just starting to dry up so pictures dont look the greatest but you get the idea…

While I was waiting in between coats I decided to put the front spindle assemble together

Will be Coating a few areas tomorrow with gravel guard/under coating and depending on how long that takes to dry up I will either be installing parts late Sunday or early Monday.

After spraying on some gravel guard and then putting the fender liners back in (removed the mud flap thing while I was at it)

Then today I slowly started putting the front end back together some what thou I still have a bit of work left thou its not important. Main goal was to be able to get the rims on so I can drop the front end and start on the rear.

I should get started on the rear end tomorrow so will continue to update things as that progresses.

looking good, i love installing clean parts

Yea I quite enjoyed it. Between all the parts being clean and all the rust being removed from the hardware everything went together extremely smooth.

Quick shot of it back on the ground…

To my surprise the control arm, tc rod and tie rod were as far as my eye could see, perfectly straight thou the picture may be a little deceiving due to the angle.

ur doing an excelent job

Thanks :wink:

I’ve finally got to the Rear End today and am hoping to have most of it finished over the weekend as I’d like to have it back together early next week as I still have lots left until its 100% done.

Rear end finally out (and in better shape then I expected)

And again, rear end (floor/frame wise) was alot cleaner then the front end but I didnt know what to expect until I removed the Subframe assembly.

More updates tomorrow as I’ve got a bunch of parts to Blast and Coat and then I will be starting to clean up whatever rust I can on the rear end sections so it can be primed!

just a word of warning. I redid my rear subframe and could not find new rear balljoints anywhere, as in napa anywhere else I went had no part number available. I ended up calling nissan and they did not sell them, according to them the only way you can get new rear baljoints is to order new reare lower control arms. If anyone has replaced just the ball joints I would love to know which ones they used.

Corey

B15 Sentra front ball joints (2000-2006).:wink:

Exactly the same as the 240’s rear. I have them installed on mine, and no problems after 2 seasons.

WOW you did an awesome job! your giving me inspiration to actually start doing so rust removal on my car.

You can buy the rear control arms new from PDM with either poly or stock bushings already pressed in.

I’ll be selling all my arms with whiteline bushings pressed in, in the coming future (the next now to next 2 months) while I strip the car down. :slight_smile:

Picked up the rear ball joints today. Ended up going with the 89 Sentra Fronts since they were in stock and I didnt want to wait.

More misc hardware from the rear end.

Diff & rear axle ends primed and painted in flat black.

Parts to the front section of Subframe awaiting Powder Coating tomorrow.

While cleaning all the dirt and under coating off the diff cover I found the LSD sticker looking rather new’ish.

After a quick blasting. Will be going over it again tomorrow with some glass bleed before it gets Powder Coated.

More within the next few days as it starts going back together :wink:

just out of curiousity, how many hours do you think you’ve already spent on this project?

in fact…how many hours do you think that the entire project will require from start to finish?
Just curious to see if there’s enough time during the winter to do something like this…provided i have the right tools

i got the same question…

I really don’t know how many hours I’ve got into it and even guessing I wouldn’t know where to start. I’ve really just worked on it here and there as I had some spare time until recently as I want to get it finished up a.s.a.p.

If you have alot of time on your hands then it could easily be done over a winter. I’ve done alot of what could be looked at as overkill and if I just skipped it all then I probably could be done already but I decided if I was going this far then I was going to do the best job I could do rather then rushing it.

Ideally, I’ve started with a $300 chassis so I knew I was in for alot of work but that was the plan from the beginning. If you started out with a car that was in better condition and weren’t as picky as me then it could surely be done in a timely manor.