Lookin’ good!
I’m still impressed with your zombie survival abilities
Hah, thanks :tup:
its your vehicle secuirty/immobilizer. youre gonna need to put that back. it should connect to the ingnition cyliinder via an antenna rig or some other means to read your coded key. Alternatively you could bypass it in order to beable to start the vehicle with a regular cut steel key. but i wouldnt.
Neither my AEM nor my modded stock ECU used for passing inspection use the immobilizer, but I know the ignition coil wire passes through it, so I may have to do a wire trick, to get that to work properly if I remove this.
So last night, I did about half of the dash harness. Like the engine harnesses, I started out by removing the electrical tape, and getting rid of the connectors and wires I absolutely knew I didn’t need anymore. Then, I could look at the individual wires, and see what ones aren’t being used, and remove them as well. There are still 3 connectors in question on the passenger side, but you can see the progress that I made so far. I really think this harness will be cut down by about 60 - 70%.
This is the drivers side, not touched yet.
This is the passenger side, as you can see, it’s only a few connectors now!
So far, all of this has been removed. Not bad for an hour or so of work!
:tup:
Good stuff.
Last night I pulled the rest of the loom off of the drivers side of the harness, and pulled another huge chunk of wiring off. I still have quite a few wires, but I would say I am over half way done with this dash harness now. If all goes well, it should be ready to re-install this weekend.
Coming along quick now. :tup:
Dan
Starting to wind down the projects, the car should be buttoned back up soon. I took all of the wire removed so far in a big leaf blower box that I had, and it comes to 11 pounds or so:
This is just the wire, not the brackets, sensors, and extra acd ecu and such that I removed in the cleanup process. That probably totals another 10 pounds.
I started figuring out how I am going to mount the fuse block and battery today. Because the firewall has so many mounting studs, I can mount the fuse block right in the middle of the firewall, with a 12mm nut and the firewall stud:
Once I get all of this figured out, then I can mount the dash harness back in, and then re-install the dash. Just a few more things, but they are all time consuming at this point!
–mark
:tup:
I want to finish up the front of the car, so I ran the wires through the driver’s side foot well today. The wires that go through here are the headlights, air intake temp sensor, driver’s side fender marker, and the positive wires for the fan and electric water pump. I was able to still use the factory grommet, so that’s nice. Here are some shot:
Now, I just need to finish planning out the headlights, then I can get all of that back on, and then the front of the car should be 100% done, and I can focus on the rest of the interior. The headlights are 5 wires each, so it’s not too bad, I just have to mount the wiring to the tube on the front of the car, and run the new wires / connectors up to each headlight. Pretty exciting!
–mark
drool, sound amazing
So, finished installing the interior, then I got the headlights back on. The car looks whole again!
But the cooler part, is last video people asked me to rev it, so, here is a video of the car running, and a quick walk through. It’s louder than I remember 
–mark
Those wheels are the icing on the cake man, great job.
:tup:
yeah those wheels look great
Final stages. I started final assembly of the headlight wiring. Thanks to Dan, I got some nice 6 wire weather packs, and crimped on the wire ends to make my headlights quickly removable. Here are some pictures:
Up until this point, I just had the wires taped together for testing, but now it’s the real deal!
Last night, I also let the car run for 15 minutes to fully warm up, and check for leaks, oddities, etc… I am going to have emery tweak the tune a little bit for cold-start and warm-up, but once it’s warmed up, idle is solid, and we know WOT is perfect. I may see some road time this weekend
–mark
Great job!
My plans this winter were as follows:
- Rewire the headlights to have complete, factory working high/low beams
- Wire my fans and electric water pump to key on, instead of a switch
- Wire my fuel pump to a toggle switch, for high and low settings
- Misc. cleanup around the car, inside and out
- If all goes to plan, extend wires and place the entire fuseblock behind the dash
As of today, everything on the list is done! I just finished the last project, which was routing a control switch for my fuel pump, to switch from high to low mode from within the car. It used a 10k resistor to change the voltage going to the control wire on the FueLab 41402 pump, switching it from 12V for high mode to 0V for low mode.
The fuel pump flows too much fuel on high mode, for daily driving. Anything over a fuel miles would cause the fuel to heat up, create cavitation, and possibly ruin components of the fuel system. This switch can always be keep the pump on low until I do a pull. I have to make sure I remember to flick the switch, but I trust this more than a WOT switch or something along those lines.
Here is a quick pictures of the switch in my dash:
Now I just have to come up with some labels for it, I currently have written “Off - Fast” and “On - Slow”.
All that is left now is to detail the car nice, and go do some rolling 2nd gear AWD burnouts 
–mark
Haha nice! :tup: