I got my car so light, it’s actually floating now!
Now that the functionality is done on my car, I am focusing some effort on making it look nice. Last night I removed the red valve cover that had some chips and scratches in it, sanded them out, and painted it flat black. It looks pretty nice now!
This week, I am working on getting working license plate lights. I want to give the cops no reasons to pull me over, and I do get nabbed for loud exhaust, I don’t want any extra tickets!
–mark
More info on fuel heat/cavitation? I just recently sat in traffic for an hour in my a4 and the fuel pump got VERY loud towards the end. I filled it up and it went away, I was thinking it was the pump starving slightly even though it got loud for about 45 mins of driving, and even turns/bumps etc didnt’ make the car miss/cut out. Now you say this about heat, and it makes me wonder as putting more gas in the tank would bring down the overall temp.
Pump is a Weld-On 1100-A.
Here is a message from Jim Craig, of Weldon, that he sent me on this cavitation issue:
Thank you for the inquiry – the 2035 at lower fuel pressure can work for a little bit of time on the street. However, what causes the pump to give you problems is the amount of fuel that pump (as well as my others) moves at those lower pressures. The increased amount will cause the fuel to increase temperature to the point of boil and this is when vapor lock can occur, the vapor lock can cause the fuel pump to cavitate resulting in pump damage.
I would avoid using the 2035 on the street without the controller, however if you have no other choice then you should limit you “street runs” to 15 or 20 minutes with some pump and fuel “cool-down” between. Remember, the 2035 at 50 psi is moving over 220 gph and most normal cars will only consume 10 or 20 gph while street driving. The 14000 allows you to driving the vehicle on the street by pulsing the current to the fuel pump which slows it down and minimizes the amount of fuel moving through the system.
Since then, I purchased the FueLab pump that has a built-in controller, and that is what my switch does, making it safe for street use, and then crank it up for intermittent race use.
:tup:
Great work Mark!
I sold my Wedsport wheels that I had on the car, and with that money, I bought a new set of 15 x 7 Rota Slipstreams (12# each), some new 235/60/15 M&H Racemaster DOT street slicks, and a set of custom 15mm wheel spacers made to fit both the Evo’s hub and the Rota’s wheel bore (also lightened on the CNC). The car should hook pretty good now, be street legal in regards to “street” tires, and should be light! I believe the total weight per corner ends up being around 29 pounds, which is remarkable.
I am not sure how well these will hook compared to the Hoosier QTP, but they are a bit more narrow, which may help with my rolling resistance and get my MPH up a little bit more. The true test will come down to a bunch of runs, and see how they perform!
–mark
:tup:
Legal rubber :tup:
I wasn’t too big of a fan of these tires on my Yellow SRT4 back in the day, but I have heard good things about them on AWD cars, and I got a really good deal. The other benefit is that they are truly DOT legal, unlike Hoosier QTP’s, that are DOT racing class legal, but not made for the street. I will let you know how these hook!
–mark
Cool stuff :tup:
screw it! i rock my QTP’s on the street
So do all of us up here, but cory has like 19 tickets this year so far, many of them for driving on QTPs!
I am also theorizing that because the tire is just about the same height, but more narrow than a QTP, that it should help my MPH a little bit from less rolling resistance.
Did I miss it? Whats this thing weigh in at now?
I haven’t had it on the scales yet this year, but last time it was weighted, it was 2530#. I have since then taken at least 20# out, but I am adding in a few things here and there. My goal is 2499# once I add an aluminum exhaust out of the back (so I will obviously have to find more weight to remove).
jesus cops hate you guys out there
Lookin good!
It’s 32.5 pounds, compared to 31 pounds even with a Hoosier QTP. So it’s a tad bit heavier, but I hope they work decent. We will see!
I had a little set back though, Austin found this before we mounted the 4th tire:
I called up Summit, and I will have a replacement tire on Monday, no charge to me. Now that is customer service {thumbup}
:bigtup:
My front wheel spacers get here Wednesday of this week, and then I can bring my car down to STM to have an aluminum exhaust made, and then I am done for the season, I think!
I was struggling to find a good place under the dash to mount the battery, so I ended up putting it back in the trunk again. I modified my Buschur Racing small battery tray to fit in the trunk with 2 bolts. It’s 2 ga. wire grounding to the chassis 8" from the battery, and then 2 ga. wire running up to the front of the car, where it splits off to the fuse block, alternator and starter. 8" from the battery positive terminal is a 100 amp breaker, so that I can quickly kill all power to the car without any tools.
I have everything mounted and run, I just need to pick up 3, 2 ga. ring terminals on Monday, and then I can finish this small project up. The weather is finally getting nice here too, so I am definitely anxious to put some street miles on this beast this year!
–mark
its crazy how light you have that thing!!
Got my wheel spacers today! 10 extra holes drilled in them to save weight, and they weigh in at 18 oz each:
The next dry day, my car will be at the shop getting a proper exhaust 
Sexy!
