Ahhh running a trex, that explains some. My friend who posted his build up on here is running the Vengeance Vindicator which is pretty comparable to a Trex i guess and he plans on spraying as well.
The best i have been able to muster is a 12.02 @ 117.xx with a best trap of 118 on motor, this was with a 1.9 short time, but my FAST intake was cracked which me and psychopjv only discovered at the end of the season. According to Chuck and Pat this could help explain the cars erratic behavior and possibly contributed to it running strong some days and doggy others. We then put pat’s LS6 on the car and hooked up the nitrous kit. I was able to run a 11.58@ 125 w/2.0 60 foot before the bottle ran out after 3 passes running about the same timing as turbols1ss :picard:. I think with a proper tune with the proper timing, a full bottle with a heater and my FAST 90/90 there is a lot left on the table, we’ll see. I am very tempted to swap in the 150 jets at the track.
What are your feelings on a timing tuner? I was thinking about picking one up so i can run full timing while not on the bottle.
As far as a timing tuner…lol you dont want my views on timing. On the really big cam only cars in my experience it takes quite a bit to make them detonate so I was running 28* on a 200 shot which helps explain the 136 mph I suppose. My NA times werent good because I just couldnt make it not bog real hard off the bottle. On that sized cam I needed 4.56 gears imo to get it out better NA. You should not at all be afraid of 150 jets at the track. The cvar was a highway star I never had the time to get everything sorted out at the track. I used to go out and run a 250 on zzzz highway and tear apart 140mph cars all day.
Seems like a super good deal in combination with the link JT76 posted up.
That controller included can do wide band/narrowband A/F safety which seems like a major plus!
$1100 shipped(Both kits) Seems like a steal for a 125 wheel HP gain(Which i could probably install myself) over a Mild cam/springs/intake/tb which is about the same for $2000(not including installation which I don’t have the tools or know how to do).
I was going to buy the HSW plate kit, along with the accessory kit you listed. I had it ordered in fact.Then, the day after, i went to lancaster and broke my transmission in half so i had to cancel it if i wanted my tranny fixed immediately :picard:
I asked Nick from HSW a lot of the questions that you have. They differ from some people’s opinions here, so I figured I’ll post up his responses to my questions. He has been very helpful to me and I am definitely thinking of spraying my car come summer.
Thanks for taking the time to contact us. It sounds like you just want to occasionally use the nitrous kit at the track? Please feel free to ask whatever questions you come up with. Our biggest concern at HSW is helping people become informed nitrous users. Onto the questions.
Safe is kind of one of those relative terms we really never like to use. I feel comfortable telling people that a 150 shot is safe on the LSx cars. But I usually say this with the hopes that people take the necessary steps and use the safety items on the market today that will help keep the system in check and that they have a basic understanding of how nitrous works.
On a bone stock car I feel that it is okay to run the stock pump upwards of a 125 shot, wet or dry. Anything over that it is never a bad idea to upgrade the fuel pump for a wet kit and the fuel pump and injectors for a dry kit. When doing the pump make sure it comes with the hotwire kit.
Honestly one isn’t any better than the other. At that size shot its really a personal preference. I personally prefer the dry kits over the wet kits. Only for the simple reason that I never liked the idea of flowing fuel through a intake manifold designed for efi. That’s not to say wet is bad though because they too have their advantages. Like I said its really a personal preference and economic choice.
Where the nitrous is injected is based on what kit it is. Wet nozzle is after the maf but before the throttle body (usually in the bellow). Dry nozzle is before the maf, that is unless you are running our Interface controller. In that case you could run the nozzle anywhere you wanted and the Interface will add the fuel via the fuel injectors. Wet Plate (this is when you see mm measurements) is bolted behind the throttle body. The stock throttle body requires the 78mm plate kits. The 90mm or 92mm are for the FAST intake manifolds that have the larger throttle bodies. We also offer a dry plate kit that mounts behind the throttle body, but again this requires the use of the Interface controller to add fuel.
Our nitrous kits include everything you would need to spray. I do however suggest a few accessories to help keep the system safe. Take a look at the All-Out kit. It is an accessory package that has all of the necessary safety components as well as a few components to help make the kit consistent.
Hopefully I answered all of your questions? If you have any new ones or I missed something please feel free to ask. Thanks!
Much less of a chance of a backfire with a dry kit versus a wet kit. It’s all personal preference in the end though.
Also I did a bunch of research into all of this and most people (Harris SpeedWorks, Speed Inc etc.) all said the best plug they have used by far for nitrous applications was the NGK BR7EF which is one step colder than the TR6’s.
Eh, if you’re going to stay under a 150 shot I’d do a dry kit. I had one before my plate and it was great. The wet kits can backfire…mine hiccuped once last year when me and mindless ran but didn’t break anything thankfully. You’ve got the 28lb injectors which will most likely be fine for at least a 125 shot (they were for me) but obviously you should double check that because every car is different.
Run either NGK TR6s or Autolite 103s.
A window switch is a must with the stick cars. A fuel pressure safety switch is also a good idea, they’re cheap too. Fuel pump should be fine but a Walbro isn’t that hard to install and can support some good power.
LOL at dry kits and lol at colder plugs then the tr6 on a ~600rwhp setup. There is so much that goes into plug choice and a large cam only car on the spray does not need colder then a tr6…I also ran a single shot 250 wet OMGZORZ no wai!!! I ran this setup for 5 YEARS! God I hate this debate.
Another option if money is flowing good would be this:
Edelbrock single plane intake.
Wilson elbow
ANY 4-barrel carb wet style kit. There are literally hundreds to choose from and they will all be cheaper than a dedicated f-bod kit. The 4-bbl plate systems on top of a Victor style EFI manifold will distribute fuel and nitrous much better than the plastic LS6 manifold.
