Ok, like everyone with a 335i, my car has noisy wastegates… they make noises that I dont like hearing. I know a couple people here have had them replaced under warranty and I would absolutely LOVE to have that done before the CPO warranty runs out in April, the sooner, the better.
So, those of you who did it, how did you go about it. The last time I took the car in they told me “that sounds normal to us… bring it back if it really starts making noise”
I’d gladly pay my deductible to get it fixed, I just dont want it making those noises down the road. (out of CPO)
I had mine done a couple years ago… so alot of this was new to them at the dealer. But I cant say enough good things about towne bmw, they love replacing parts. BMW is probably cracking down on this a bit as the claims have gone up. I still had to have a puma case approval for the work to be done at that time.
I started complainig about the wastegate noise and they replaced both of the actuators and adjusted them. They also tested the vac lines in the area and the vac canisters also. (vac lines under the engine cover can crack and leak making the rattle even worse). This was very short lived/did really nothing for it. I persisted with the complaint and they then said they would replace the entire turbos under warranty.
Honestly its better than original but not that much and your tune can effect the wastegate postions too FYI. In the procede software I can adjust the wastegate postioins and minimize the rattle as much as possible.
Just so you know prior to them replacing the turbos I even tack welded the flapped disc that is rivited on with some play to see if that would help eliminate the noise. It did not LOL.
Make sure Goff works on it, hes the man :tup:
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So funny you say that, I tried that already, no one could give me an answer about it so I had spencer bring over the welder and tack them up, but does not work, it really has to do with the actuator and how they wear out/them closing tightly. Some are better than others, Single turbo/upgraded twins with external gate/upgraded acuators will be the end all solution.
You’ll have to just keep complaining about it/being persistant. You also need to find a tech that isn’t lazy and won’t just say it’s normal because he doesn’t want to do the job. They still require a PUMA case, which involves removing the turbos and checking a few things before they ok the replacement.
Like Jeller said, they will still wind up making some sort of noise even with new ones. I would also be checking the entire intake and vacuum system for leaks. Bring it up to Buffalo and I’ll get them replaced for you
I think the first thig they actually tried was update the DME software (that did absolutely nothing) but was one of the steps to getting the turbos replaced too. Keep bitching !
I gotta hear this from you and Krant now too :banghead:
Goff if you’re serious. I will gladly bring it up before the final date of the cpo warranty. I’d love to have a good eye do a full once over on the car… Thoughts?
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They did the reprogram on the car… Did nothing.
They also refuse to acknowledge the brake clunk. “those pads with 5k babied miles need to be replaced and that may solve the problem…” pretty typical since the original warranty ran out
I wonder how much this would cost out of warranty…
My car has a pretty loud rattle, but I just deal with it because it’s not hurting performance. It just sounds stupid if I downshift or am in gear and off throttle.
I’m sure you can find someone at a local dealer willing to hear you out, you just need to be persistent about it. But I would definitely do it if you brought it up here, the process is around a week or so since we don’t stock the parts and have to wait for PUMA to okay it. Programming adjusted the waste gate opening and closing, it never actually fixed anything.
Brake clunk? Probably the pads moving in the bracket.
Paulo, quick estimate off the top of my head would be close to $8,000. Last time I checked the turbos were around $3,000 each (insane I know)
My resolution was cause the pad was shifting front to back, not inside to out, like the ears on the brake pads should just be a bit bigger to keep the pads from shifting inside the bracket. So I bent up a small piece of metal over the ear of the pad to get rid of the space.