Napa machine shop = blind drunk mokeys who sandblast your bearings

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/hotrodkid/sho%20stuff/IMG_0655.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/hotrodkid/sho%20stuff/IMG_0660.jpg

yeah that would be the one and only SHO powered camaro. I am using the junk block for mock up. At least it is lighter since there is nothing in it.

Yeah I know its gay because it is not the same thing thousands of other have, so save the hate for when it run mid 15’s

no my dad does NOT work in the machine shop. just to be clear.

No one hates it for being different

Its the fact the SHO was a complete fail

If I was swapping a 3.8 from a grand national it would be “cool” It is a high reving engine that generates significant power reliably. The engine is really far back in the car to help traction and is mated to a super strong transmission with a big stall. It is not a V8 but when you lay it out the facts it should do really well at the track. I guess I just don’t see the fail.

I think you said it best actually.

So I decided to finish up the engine today and get it ready to drop into the car. I borrow a shim kit from a friend and to my disbelief I can’t get anything into spec… not even close!!! I took measurements in for all of the valves and marked down the gap and the current shim that is installed in the bucket and… well let me type out a example

exhaust valve 1 cylinder 1
.032" gap which is .813mm
shim installed is a 2.475mm

exhaust valve 2 cylinder 1
.029" gap which is .737mm
shim installed is a 2.575mm

SPEC is .010- .014" which is .250-.350mm

I am so fucking frustrated at this. The only thing I can figure is they work in inches but the engine specs in the book are in metric… so now I have 24 scrap valves and the heads have to come back off. I will be visiting napa on monday. I have a feeling they will tell me to piss off but THEY FUCKED THIS UP!!!

:choda:

throw out head, buy another head, take it somewhere that isnt napa ??? proft

Shitty man.

The shim sizes don’t sound too crazy. Please explain how you are measuring your bucket clearance.

I don’t really understand why you have scrap valves now? Just use thicker shims to take up the extra clearance.

It is pretty easy to warp alloy when blasting with anything other than soda or crushed walnut shells. Even calcium can warp metal. Idk man, I would never have a alloy head glass anything blasted

give up

This is Gods way of saying a shomaro should never be allowed to exist.

Is it just me or am the only one lost why hotrodkid posted this and it’s somedudes engine? Wtf?

They’re an item.

The largest shim available for the SHO is 2.700mm If I installed that into the first example

exhaust valve 2 cylinder 1
.029" gap which is .737mm
shim installed is a 2.575mm

that still leaves me with a gap of .612 and the spec is .250-.350mm so the gap is just under double the max shim available. I could have lash caps custom made to close the gap but when I have cams made or buy currently available regrinds I would have to have new custom lash caps again to close the gap from their mistake. I am not looking to have custom parts made to resolve improper machine work. The last thing I want to do is add unnecessary weight to my valve train. I will be spinning this engine really fast so that is counter productive. + now I need new head gaskets because they didn’t come off well. They might seal up but i’m not looking to add a unknown to this project.

I may have missed it, but did you ever go back and talk to them?

Have napa make you larger shims. They seem to have quailty work.

after they scrapped a engine block, blasted all mating surfaces and bearing surfaces and have valves improperly… I think “quality” might be in question at this point. The cylinder bores were very consistent on the second block they machined though so I will give them that.

---------- Post added at 03:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:53 PM ----------

I follow the direction in the ford service manuals. The short version is to have the cam lobe 180 deg from the shim/bucket and use a feeler gauge to measure the gap. The head in the SHO has a bucket that goes on top of the valve which contacts the valve stem directly. The shim is placed on top of the bucket and you slide the feeler gauge into that gap to measure gap. I have done this procedure on 5 other SHO engines for their 60K service and have never had a issue. In My engine’s case I did have the head and cams torqued to spec and properly timed before any measurements were taken. Measurements are to be taken below a certain temp meaning it can’t be a hot engine when you do it.

I follow you, I didn’t realize the thickest shim was still not good enough. Bummer man that blows. They definitely ground the tips of the valves too much. Which is weird because normally you measure the height of the valves, cut the seat, then tip the valve the same amount to retain similar valve stem height specs. If they did the job properly it is possible that the valves were off to begin with. I doubt that though. Good luck.

I trust the source I bought the valves from. Many people have used them in the past without issue and they are specifically made for the SHO. The only way they can correct this is to cut the seats and set the valves way deep into the head. I don’t see this as a proper solution. I will also be left with intake and exhaust surfaces that are blasted so I will have to still clean them up so the metal gasket surfaces will seal to them… If they tell me to pound salt i’m not sure what my next recourse will be. call napa corporate and see what they want to do I guess.

frustration is really high right now