Need Help/Opinion FAST. (Sr Knocking?)

SON240sx Automotive
1

I just got back from the garage and started the Sr for the first time. I did everything right and primed it correctly, hooked up the CAS and tried it and it wouldnt idle. Played with the Timing and tried again and it started up but something is knocking from what seems to be the front of the Valve cover.

While playing with where my BOV is supposed to be on the Cold pipe I was controlling the idle up and down and the knock would almost go away when the RPM’s were lower but got louder when the RPM’s were raised a little.

Did anyone else experience anything like this and it went away?? Could it be timing chain or something and it will go away?

I dont know what to think but Im freaking out cause this engine is supposed to be fucken mint.

PLEASE HELP ME OUT HERE, THIS IS NOT COOL!

BTW my exhaust and FMIC are not hooked up. Im just running the MAFS with filter right from the Cold pipe.

2

Anyone?? Please?

Could it be a combination of shitty gas, bad timing and crap like exhaust and FMIC not hooked up?

Please Shed me some light on this!

3

where else have you posted?

Have you tried FA?

Why isn’t your exhaust hooked up? Regardless, your motor does need back-pressure to run properly, so that’s the first yellow flag in my mind. However I don’t have a SR.

4

First off, exhaust has nothing to do with it, anything after the turbo is a restriction, the bigger the better (or none at all)

Second, what do you mean “wouldn’t idle”? Does it surge up and down or does it just stall if you let off the throttle?

Third, stop playing with shit unless you know what you are doing, you are going to fuck it up. Did you have a timing light on it when you were “playing” with the timing? If you didn’t and “listened” go back with a timing light then set it and forget it.

Fourth, you did not do everything right, or it would be running properly, something is wrong. Go back and check EVERYTHING. All connections for air leaks, all vacuum lines, everything. Get a mechanical fuel pressure gauge on it, got to princess auto and make a cheap one.

Lastly, unless something is really messed up there should be no ticking. You can rig the same gauge you made for the fuel to check the oil pressure, do that first. There are way too many people around here giving out information to start ripping shit apart. Seeing no oil under the valve cover would be bad, and nearly impossible, you would have to see something, but that will tell you nothing about the pressure it got there at.

Again, too many people are posting shit they do not KNOW, you should be in diagnostics mode, not rip apart and see what shit looks like mode.

Oh, and having the FMIC or not will make no difference in how it idles, if you can hook it up easily go for it, but air going through a maze is the same as air going though a straight pipe at idle, well, close.

5

Ya the FMIC isnt hooked up at the moment cause all I wanted was to see if it would start and idle, make sure the wiring is done right and whatnot.

When we were first starting it, it would just crank and then it would seem that it would start but it would die down and go back to just cranking. I pulled the CAS and just lined it up without pulling the valve cover or anything. Tried to crank it again and it started right up but there is a knock coming from the engine and it would beat fast and lower with the RPM.

I just shut it off after that and we left it and went home.

Any idea’s at all guys?

Thanks agian.

6

Hook up everything first. like your FMIC, then try again. What did you do? Connect your MAFS to your TB? Sasha did that and his car ran like Shit, and I think it ran fine after he hooked up his FMIC.

7

Hold on here, you don’t even have the turbo in the equation ? NOt having the FMIC hooked up is one thing, getting rid of the turbo altogether is a whole different ballgame.

8

Alright well Im gonna drive down there right now and try finishing the FMIC and get little odds and ends figured out. Ill post when I get back.

Thanks a lot to everyone who is helping me with this, its greatly appreciated.

Have a good one.

9

Alright well same deal.

I hooked up the FMIC, BOV, All Vacuum lines and whatnot. Primed the engine until the Oil Light went off and then started it up.

It starts fine but this knocking is pretty damn loud and comes from the back of the Head. It idles at 1600 RPM and does not go down so I shut it off after about 10 seconds and the Manifold was hot as hell and you couldnt even touch it I dont know if that is normal but after 10 seconds it doesnt seem like it should be scalding hot.

Is there anything else I can do?

Im gonna take off the valve cover and do the timing right so I can just leave it . And there is oil making it up to the head.

10

take a long screwdriver and place your hand around it and your ear against your clutched fist. Put the tip of the screwdriver around the place you think its coming from and try to isolate it.

My guess would be a Connecting rod bearings is spun. I’d have to hear it though.

Rockers, lifters, valves? Try letting it run for a while and see if the sound goes away. It could be a part starved from oil. My new engine’s rockers ticked for 20 minutes untill they were well lubed. These engine have been sitting for who knows how long.

Andrew.

11

How loud were the rockers though Andrew??

I could try letting it run and see what happens, I always get worried Im gonna cause more damage so I just shut it off.

Do you think its smart to let it run for a few minutes?? The Turbo Manifold got damn hot but Im not sure if thats normal or not.

12

You certainly should not be getting a knocking sound with the motor no matter what is or isn’t hooked up. I’d have to hear it to be sure, but if it’s knocking like you say then it’s probably a rod bearing. What caused it? Could be a number of things… usually it’s due to dents in the oil pan restricting oil flow into the pickup. Sometimes (often?) there’s enough oil getting in for the oil pressure light to go off, but not enough volume to properly lubricate everything.

So are there any dent in the oil pan? It only takes a very small dent, there is very little clearance between the pan and the pickup in SR’s.

This is probably why someone suggested pulling the valve cover to see if their is oil getting up there. If there isn’t you’ll take the cams out too. But basically if it’s knocking liek you say it’s junk anyway :frowning:

-Martin.

13

There arent any dents in the oil pan at all.

I had one of the Mechanics from the Nissan Dealership come over today and check it out. He hooked up one of those Stethoscopes to the block and head and told me its from the bottom end and seems like the Sr’s first cylinder.

He’s helped me the whole way with this thing and said that the motor had to come over here like that for it to end up the way it did.

Im gonna talk to the guy I got it off of cause this whole ordeal has been a waste of time and I have nothing to show for it at all, its absolute bullshit.

14

“Im gonna talk to the guy I got it off of cause this whole ordeal has been a waste of time and I have nothing to show for it at all, its absolute bulls**t.”…

make one more comment like that and i wont help you through this…
u picked up ure motor beginning of feb, thats 4 months ago…so i dont even need to be helping you but i am just cuz i felt like it.
U paid less for ure motor and wiring then anyone else ever has since i started selling srs…ive only sold three redtops…U gt_greg and cp racing…everyone paid 2500 without wiring harness being pre wired !
u paid 2320 with the harness pre wired so dont say its absolute bullshit…People know that u bought from me so dont fuck up my flex…
If u feel my service is absolute bullshit say it to my face, not to people on the forums…
For some reason i smell pussy…wanna know what i do to pussy???

15

Sounds Fair :lol:

Slippery silvia can you please PM me prices on
S13 Redtop and black tops.
Thanks :wink:

16

OK guys take it easy… sometimes things don’t go as planned. Sometimes motors end up being bad through no fault of anyone involved… remember these are junkyard motors, occasionally one will be junk.

Be civil, work through the problems and sort it out between you.

-Martin.

17

Well they’ve both got their points…
SliperySilvia is trying to be a nice guy and help the man 4 months later!! :shock:

And Schrites is upset which we should understand because it would be frustrating to any of us after laying out that kind of dough for an engine and you can’t even enjoy it…

Martin is right, be civil. Or settle it in person <—If that happens, call me, ill bring the video cam :twisted:

18

I like to help my customers as much as i can , and i do that all the time. But i have a very small fuse when it comes to people talking trash like schrites did in his last post. Absolute bullshit is a pretty strong comment to make about someone who has sold 15 srs and has only one unhappy customer. Anyways, i am trying to get this sorted out , but its not easy only because of the four month period between now and the time he bought from me. If it was a week, or a month or what ever it would have been a refund or exchange of engine no problem.
I am talking to my supplier and figuring out a soloution.
Im sure most people on here understand the situation.
peace

19

Varuun you don’t have to defend yourself. Whenever someone buys an SR they are buying a junkyard engine from Japan. Even if the engines show good number for leakdown and such, unless the engine was run there is no way of telling if the engine has a spun bearing.

As far as I’m concerned, when you buy and SR your taking a chance. Like I said before many a time. If I was to buy any imported engine no matter the reputation of the importer, its getting a rebuild before it goes in my car.

Andrew.

20

Yea i guess ure right about the fact that its a junkyard engine etc. But ill do what ever i can in my power to help schrites in this situation. For now, ive told him to play with it and run the correct fuel in the car and let the whole engine break in a bit. These enginea have been sitting for atleast a year for sure. So maybe it will take a while to get the thing lubed up and running right. Hopefully the knock will go away…its a weird situation…
Even if the oil pan wasnt banged out properly it may have caused this problem…i dunno…anyways…shit happens…being an engine seller i have to lern how to deal with this shit i guess…atleast the rest of my customers are happy and not calling my service Absolute Bullshit…
:smiley: