the final synopsis is the amp cannot be bridged to handle 2ohms, therefore the least i can go is 4ohms, which is the dual 2 voice coil wired in series. that will be 150w rmps for the sub.
i was a little worried that would be less power than needed, but was told for my particular setup it will work great, and many people hook up the same way. afterall, im aiming for SQ over deafening bass.
for reference, i dug out the boxes for my “setup” i had in my blazer. it was only a planet audio p60.2s baby amp and a JL 12w0. final output was only like 120watts. that was enough bass for me, and had a lot more space to fill, and the positioning wasn’t as great. now i will have slightly more power to the sub, and much more power going to my other speakers, plus the better receiver. should work good for me. if i want more power down the road, there is a nice 5-channel amp that delivers a LOT of power for pretty cheap… i’ll see how this works first
its not going to be as big a fuel system as previously planned. it is going to be a twin walbro again, this time with one on a HOBBS switch. This means only one pump running full duty (like stock) unless i’m boosting, in which case the radio wont be blasting anyway. the fuel will obviously have priority, with a “hotwire” style hookup
not to mention, this isn’t exactly a large system. it is a more efficient receiver/amp plus a small external amp.
All you need is a amp thats 2ohm stable and you can wire a 4ohm dual voice coil sub to 2ohms, Should sound good, Also with the CD player i would make sure you have a ipod hook up, I dont know if the old one your using has that and or plays MP3 cds.
mp3 cd’s. good enough for me. i’m not spending anymore money on this setup.
hell, for the better part of the last 2-3 years i dealt with the shitty stock(ish) system with a BADLY blown speaker. this will be a very very good improvement.
i already have the amp, not interested in returning it.
eh… this will keep you happy for now, but you really will want more power. In an SQ setup you need all the power in the world because you’re trying to control the speaker’s movements more accurately which in turn requires power.
I’m just going to throw this one out there…but I have 2 12" jl audio subs in a box for $130. great condition, high quality subs. The thread is somewhere in parts trader.
im debating, but this is what i think im going to do…
i think im going to see if elemental designs will let me swap my 2ohm DVC for a 4ohm DVC. i dont think they will have a problem with that if i ship. that way i can wire to 2ohms. then i will run the amp i have two power 4 speakers instead of 2+sub, and i will get this amp:
i read decent things about it. i’ve had good look with my alpine, they seem to build quality. plus it is decently small (the main thing i was trying to avoid was clutter and added weight, but this thing is only like 7lbs and is pretty small/clean.
any opinions on this amp? i think its a pretty good bang/buck
just did a chat with eD…they said i could swap no prob. i don’t think i will NEED or USE the 500w rms over 300w rms, but i’d rather have the power on the table, and keep the power/gain/heat down on the sub/amp if i can do this now rather than later
8" kicker L5 hands down. put one in the gf’s car recently and it sounds amazing. and the best part is, the box only had to be .3 cubic feet, which ended up being only like a 10x10 box. I’ve been working in car audio for about 4 years and I’ve heard a lot of subs… this one is def very impressive.
What is your final setup now going to be? Can you post links, im basicaLy looking to do the same for my car, good quality setup low on weight. And you already did all the hard work
mostly because I feel that their headunits are garbage in term of output. even in audio stores when you A to B alpine vs. eclipse the difference is obvious. The alpine units sound over EQed, and underpowered on their line outs. The highs sting my ears even without a metal tweeter. Everybody lies about the specs, but I feel that alpine lies the most of any reputable brand.
I am starting to believe that they are turning around and doing a little better currently. I have a friend who has a new ipod one that doesn’t have a CD player and really liked the interface and thought it made his S2000 sound a lot better over stock. So I’m going to try and keep an open mind, but it’s hard to do based on all the installs I’ve listened to over the last decade.
It’s like their goal is to make cheaper or stock speakers sound really good. The downside is that if you actually have quality amps and high speakers that you get an over processed result. Just like how most CDs are mastered way too hot.
when i ran this headunit in my old blazer, the only external amp was the baby amp for my sub… i really couldn’t distinguish “premier” sound vs “average quality sound”. all i know is i want the music clean and clear, and under control (wow that was SUPER GAY). anyways it SEEMED good then (2+ years ago). it should do the trick. i did notice the ratings of this receiver are QUITE HIGH compared to most other comparable stuff in the market, especially considering it’s 4 years old. either way, remember this is just a budget-quality setup, trying to keep it simple as possible. hell, im used to shitty blown stock system, it can only get better. i’ve learned a LOT so far researching this. i think i put more hours in studying this stuff than i’ve done in 18 credit hours all semester, which is sad :lol:
setup right now is:
Alpine cda9811 headunit (already had it)
^^ powering rear sail speakers at 22w rms 50w peak mosfet
Polk dba651 coaxials in the doors (already had them)
PowerBass coaxials in the sails (already had them)
eD Nine.4 Amp
2 channels powering door speakers at 65w rms @ 4ohms
2 channels bridged powering Sub at 150w rms @ 4ohms
eD 11Kv2 D2 DVC
wired to 4ohms
my revised setup is probably going to be:
Alpine cda9811 headunit (already had it)
all externally powered with 3 sets of 4v pre-outs
Polk dba651 coaxials in the doors (already had them)
PowerBass coaxials in the sails (already had them)
eD Nine.4 Amp
2 channels powering door speakers at 65w rms @ 4ohms
2 channels powering sail speakers at 65w rms @ 4ohms
as the saying goes… your system is only as good as the weakest link. I think you’ll be a lot happier with your new setup.
the next upgrade I would probably do is either line drivers with your current headunit, or upgrade to something with better preouts and maybe a parametric EQ and time alignment if you don’t already have those features.
