Hi everyone,just bought a used SAFC2 and installed it on my G35 coupe.It may sound funny to you but it’s the only mod I have done so far cause I got a pretty good deal on it :o Anyways,can anyone help me with the tuning?Or tell me where can I go to get it done? Thx
If that is the only mod you’ve done, why have you put the SAFC on there?
Larger/Different MAF at all?
Ditch it ASAP.
SAFC after dyno tuned yield’s about 5-10hp if you have bolt-ons. The trick is… after 250km’s of driving, the ghey stupid self-learning ECU WILL OVERRIDE the safc and bam, you lose that 5-10hp you just spent $200 tuning on. Do a search on G35driver and my350z.com forums, there’s plenty of posts of SAFC being completely useless and not worth the time to install or tune. Even the new SAFC NEO had same results. Your best bet is E-manage blue if you want a cheap piggyback.
Here’s an advice, next time do a little research before buying/modifying something.
P.S. I have an emanage blue for sale. $200!
^^ buhaha … smooth plug for your emanage david
^lol, it’s true though. I wanted to get SAFC until I searched and found out it doesn’t work with VQ ECU, so I got emanage.
Or you can do the 2 min pedal trick before 250 miles
Or you can get the ecu aux memory power and it will rest on its own each time you leave the car for the night. ONly issue is come e-test time you will need to reconnect the wires as the e-test is looking for those factory maps.
The wire will not throw a code. Also if your in the ecu installing this thing anyways might as well do it. You won’t lose radio settings as those are stored on the radio. However, i’m not sure about your trip counter the odometer will be fine. I’m doing this after i get my e-test. But I also have a wideband so tune drift isn’t to much of a problem.
3rd solution is when you get your tune pull your 02 sensors so the car can’t mess around with its own tuen. However thsi will result in a SES light.
p.s. a safc-II will work wiht anythgin with a maf including the 350z it just takes patience to figure otu how to manipulate it. I don’t even run its the way its suppose to it wirks great for my needs.(boost safc-II is what I’m talking about). However, a legit standalone is always better but a bit much for set-up if your only looking to change your afr i.e. map sensors, crank angle sensors,… etc
^^^ I didn’t understand majority of what you just said man
Nissan Self-Learning FTW… Most of the time :S
Sorry i kinda just rambeled.
There ar wyas to get around the self-learnig ecu.
Option 1: pull 02 sensors
OPtion2: pedal trick to reset ecu
Option 3: Cut the aux ecu power ti stores the self learning map thing
What is the pedal trick and what it does exactly…?
Youcan read yuor ses codes and you cna reset them doing the pedal trick. You can also reset your idel whch at the same time resets your ecu maps.
On a sentra it goes a little something like this.
Put key to “On” position
Wait 3 Seconds
Fully depress and release your throttle pedal 5 times in about 5 sec.
With your foot off the pedal count to 7 seconds exactly then press the throttle pedal again but hold it there for 10 seconds. After 10 seconds the ses ligth will beging to flash. THe fast blinks are the beginning of the code. There should be 3 other sets of blinks following that one.
0-Ten blinks
1-one blink
2-two blinks
3-three blinks
4-four blinks
Etc.
If you have no codes you will blink 4 sets of 10 blinks meaning 0000.
Now to rest your idle. As soon as the blinks start to occur take your foot off the pedal compeletly. IN the next 5 seconds fully depress ti for about 20 seconds. This will reset all codes and your ecu altered maps. Then turn on your car and let it idle for about 5 mins. Your idle will reset codes gone and your computer will start all over again trying to construct its altered maps.
This is usefull when you do stupid stuff like me and turn the car on and forgot to reconnect the Maf harness, or after i installed my flywheel to reset air. Flood bov caused higher then usual idle and threw a code, when you clean the tb, and install new parts.
Oh yes most important tune you car after you have performed thsi trck so you are making corrections on a ecu corrected map. Every 300km or so reset the ecu maps and you will prevent the tune from “drifting”. There is another way around this to stop tune drift but it involves cutting some wires, and you need them for e-testing.(however, if you know what your doign reconnecting and and letting the ecu intentionaly regain its altered map will solve any situation at the e-test place.)
I think I wrote to much
Ok man I think I’ll try the pedal trick,dont really want to mess around with cutting wires…Thanks a lot for the info though
The Main thing is do the pedal trick prior to getting the car tuned, and about every 300km reset the ecu.