-new sparkplugs
-new cap and rotor
-new ignition wires
-new fuel filter
-fresh gas
ASM 2525
HC ppm - limit 64 - reading 115 - result FAIL!
CO% - limit 0.35 - reading 0.74 - result FAIL!
NO ppm -limit 727 - reading 1333 - result FAIL!
rpm 2833 valid
dilution 15.2 valid
CURB IDLE
HC ppm - limit 200 - reading 274 -result FAIL!
CO% - limit 1.00 - reading 0.19 - result PASS!!!
rpm 720 valid
dilution 10.5 valid
bought a magnaflow hiflow cat yesterday and ill put that in… people were telling me to get an O2 sensor but i dont have a check engine light and i dont have money to waste, so im not sure if i should buy one…
need to know if someone knows what else i could do?
I strongly suggest you get an O2 sensor as well (do the multimeter test to determine whether it is responding fast enough), and if you can clean out the EGR vacuum hoses, do so!
If they are clogged, you’ll fail NOx emissions almost certainly. Try pushing the diaphragm of the valve up by hand when the car is idling, if the engine stalls, then your system should be good to go, if not, something is plugged up. Also make sure the diaphragm goes up with not too much resistance, carbon buildup can cause a sticky valve.
Hope that helps. Inspect your spark plugs, and change them if required. Also, make sure your spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor have been replaced recently. All of this will help with the emissions, and best of all with how well the car runs afterward.
While you’re at it, check the resistance on the injector coils after unplugging the electrical clips on each of them. It should read around 11.8ohms, if it is much higher than that or much lower than that, replace the injector. You can go the extra mile by removing your MAF sensor and cleaning the filament with brake fluid or something that evaporates leaving no residue.
Honestly corpse, swing by my house, I’ll have your car running so shit it should pass, if not, play around with the timing and lean the fuck out of it, it should pass then.
car is not registered, not insured, cant get a temp slip cuz my insure company (belair) doesnt insure un safetied vehicles and im running plates i found in the trunk with 06 stickers!
#1 cylinder FI is from my spare motor since the original died
checked on my spare motor and i have 2 injectors that read 11 ohms and one that is an open circuit…
is there anyway that something electrical could cause a good injector to fuck up and “melt” causing that much resistance? im going to put in one of the 11 ohms injectors inplace of that number one on my car…
ill check that O2 sensor, but i dunno what that EGR thing looks like…
Even then ur injectors all have low resistance. As far as i know they are all suppose to be between 12-14 ohms. Although having them all at 11 probably won’t be that bad either.
The O2 sensor will make a huge difference, and i assume that one injector thats messed is also whats causing your emissions to be whack. I don’t think you’ll need to much else to pass emissions on a ka, because you are already changing the Cat.
Yeah, dude I had the same problem with the injectors but on cyl #3. I had like 45ohms on it while the rest were 11.8ohms. I changed out the crappy injector, and all is well now. Car picked up some acceleration there too.
By the way, use shitloads of penetrant like PB Blaster or WD40 when removing the screws on the injector caps. They love to strip. I used a ratchet parallel to the fuel rail to use as leverage for a flathead screwdrivers to pop out the bad injector.
