S-K
October 29, 2007, 4:17pm
16
not a ton different as far as the quality of the roll goes however you can’t roll it to the same extent/angle as you can with a proper roller
i did my own car with an eastwood roller which is one of the better rollers to my understanding and it was really easy to do and i got a pretty decent roll out of it even having never used one (there is a little bit of technique to it believe it or not).
I’ve since rolled fenders with both methods and although I prefer to use a proper roller it’s definitely not a big deal if you roll with a wooden bat or a metal bar with some tape on it, etc.
Be warned that in both cases you’ll likely be cracking/chipping the paint on the inner part of the lip of the fender - I’ve never had any cracking issues on the outside of the fender where you can actually see it but I’ve heard of it happening to people who don’t use a heat gun (heat gun is highly recommended). Most s13’s, even a lot of really clean ones have some rust starting to form on the top of the lips of the rear fenders because dirty/grime/moisture can shit on there forever until it gets cleaned off… it’s just one of those things we deal with… point being that unless the lip is super super rust-free you’ll very likely be having the paint crack and even then you might see some flaking/cracking. Like I said though, it’s not where you can actually see it so it’s not a cosmetic issue, but you definitely should spray it with some rust paint from the inside of the wheel well if it does happen to help avoid rust issues in the future since the bare metal would be exposed where it flaked off.
Yeah i would imagine that as the metal streches some the old paint would not hold up to well, I would deffinatly need to seal it after the rolling. I will probally be getting the little body work i need done (just my rear quartes at the very bottom) and then new paint all togher.