i want to find some rims 17X7.5-8.5 with a 10-20 offset they need to be 4 bolt thought. I would like somehting deepdish. The only ones i have found so far are falken hanabi and elite.
Also when will you start losing performance? at what width on the front? i am not turbo yet but plan on going sr soon.
any help is much appreciated
check some rota d2
and check the used wheels classifieds on diff sites.
Unless you start running 255 front and 275 rear, you wont lose any power, even then, a friend of mine has those tire sizes on his automatic S14 (soon to be RB26, he’s not a pussy lol) and he didn’t feel a diff when he put them on and he used to have steelies with 195s or 205s. (The tires are on GullFlame Gravity wheels, so pretty light.)
Go with something manly like 17x8.5 and 17x9.5 or at least 8/9. Or, if you feel exceptionally manly 17x9.5/18x10.5 stagger.
alright where is the best place to order or go in to get these wheels i have been a few local places and now where carrys these brands is it all online stores? you wont lose any steering performance or radious with 17x9 +15 offset wheels on the front or with these on all four corners?
My car will need some body modifacations after this i guesse being on coil overs. either rolled or maybe cut with bings over fenders something along those lines?
buyrimstodat.com this is a great web site
Look into the newer wheels in the Work Emotion series, the XT7, XC8 and XD9. They all have great sizes available in four bolt. I think Tires23 can get them.
And 17*9 +15 should only need a roll and some camber but thats with some stretched tires.
performance is a vague word. there are both disadvantages and advantages to larger wheels
some of those disadvantages/advantages are due to weight, some are due to size. No two of wheels will weigh the same even if they’re the same size and some tires are nice and light while others are heavy.
there is no set size where performance starts to decrease
sasha was running huge wheels and tires on his car, i think 10.5 wide rear and 10 or 9.5 front? tires were large also, i think 305 rear 275 front.
he won the cctcc gt championship, i dont think his tires were hindering too much.
at the same time, he was using uber light enkei rpf1’s but super tall tires which I imagine were fairly heavy.
i had 17x9.5" (255 wide tires) rear and 17x8.5" (235 wide tires) front on a stock ka and I didn’t notice much of any difference - especially not in acceleration.
I say find some 17x9 +15 all around and call it a day. (elite is that I believe) however like ramesh said you’ll need to run some stretch and a bit of camber for it to clear. You shouldn’t have to roll the front fenders but rears might need a little bit (possibly not, however… depending on tire width)
You won’t need that much fender modding. I have 8J +13 and 9J +13 and only needed a slight roll and I don’t have that much negative camber.
Alright well my front coils have camber adjustable plates so i might be alright there. and as for the back i hope i can get away without a roll. If i need one where can i rent the tool to get it done or have it done ? Also as for streatched tire i was looking at 1010tires.com or whatever and they say that a 225 will fit from 7.5-9 inche tires is that true or will it be rediculous. Also i want this all set up for grip just as a side not
Don’t stretch tires to much if you want grip. And a roll is esy, you don’ need a tool, just stick a broom handle or small end of a baseball bat between the fender and tire and roll it back and forth, make sure what you use is made of wood!
Are you being sarcastic? if not what does this look like finish product rough or alright? how would you get it in there if you have hardly any wheel gap? jack the car up and lower it untill there is a little pressure on it and repeat a little bit at a time?
hes not joking, no
and your tire is softer than you think… also you could lower the pressure a bit if you really had to but you can put a pretty massive bar in a small gapp… a lot more than you’d think after the tire absorbs most of it.
you should definitely have someone whos done it before there with you… if you want to bring the car to oakville one weekend when were working on cars you are more than welcome to… i’d be happy to do it for you.
-J
Thanks alot man! i dont head down to oakville alot but if i do i will let you know for sure. how does the finish product of this turn out compared to the machine that bolts up to your hub?
not a ton different as far as the quality of the roll goes however you can’t roll it to the same extent/angle as you can with a proper roller
i did my own car with an eastwood roller which is one of the better rollers to my understanding and it was really easy to do and i got a pretty decent roll out of it even having never used one (there is a little bit of technique to it believe it or not).
I’ve since rolled fenders with both methods and although I prefer to use a proper roller it’s definitely not a big deal if you roll with a wooden bat or a metal bar with some tape on it, etc.
Be warned that in both cases you’ll likely be cracking/chipping the paint on the inner part of the lip of the fender - I’ve never had any cracking issues on the outside of the fender where you can actually see it but I’ve heard of it happening to people who don’t use a heat gun (heat gun is highly recommended). Most s13’s, even a lot of really clean ones have some rust starting to form on the top of the lips of the rear fenders because dirty/grime/moisture can shit on there forever until it gets cleaned off… it’s just one of those things we deal with… point being that unless the lip is super super rust-free you’ll very likely be having the paint crack and even then you might see some flaking/cracking. Like I said though, it’s not where you can actually see it so it’s not a cosmetic issue, but you definitely should spray it with some rust paint from the inside of the wheel well if it does happen to help avoid rust issues in the future since the bare metal would be exposed where it flaked off.
Yeah i would imagine that as the metal streches some the old paint would not hold up to well, I would deffinatly need to seal it after the rolling. I will probally be getting the little body work i need done (just my rear quartes at the very bottom) and then new paint all togher.
well if you plan on doing that anyway, i would recommend either letting me or someone else do a really aggressive roll and no worry about the paint at all or have your body man do it completely flush (like 180* roll). That’s the best way to do it ideally if it’s going to be sealed and painted afterwards… it’s the most functional (provides the most clearance) and also eliminates the possibility of having a place for crud to sit and cause rust in the long term.
what do you mena by aggresive roll i know it would be better to roll the whole fender apposed to just the top so its tucked but does “aggresive” refer to the angel or pitch of the roll?
hmm, i dont know how to better illustrate this with words… so OUT COMES MS PAINT!
The view is like from the front of the car or back of the car… pretend the fender is cut in half or something so you can actually see it from this angle.
hopefully this makes sense… excuse my extreme talent in MS Paint but I can’t help myself sometimes.
John that is a masterpeice