alright i got my stance installed by a good friend who was really helpful.
now the car is pretty low, but drooped a bit more.
its probably 1.5" off the ground, and the dp is literally 1" off the floor.
now, i/we didn’t mean to make it SO low but watever its balln
just a few hrs ago im starting to hear a SLIGHT binding sound. only at low speeds like 10km/hr or less. if im at a standstill and try to go to full lock, ill hit something and wont be able to go anymore. i have to move up a bit to go to the real full lock. wheels are STOCK and tires are only 205 so that can’t be the problem.
i remember other guys on some forums who have lowered their cars A LOT also said somethng about a binding issue. is it bad? what causes it? much help would be appreciated.
i know s13’s if u slam them there is a peice of metal that ridges almost in the middle of the wheel well. bending im not sure tho your best bet is to go full lock and inspect. throw it ona jackstand
ditto i’ve never heard any clunk coming from mine or anyone else’s for that matter.
samson what you are hearing is likely exactly how you describe it, suspension binding. the configuration doesnt allow for too much lowering… i’d lift it up a half inch in the front and see if it goes away, it will take less than 30 minutes to do, its an easy job and its very worth it. binding = bad.
when u lower the s-chassis cars that much u run into all sorts of problems. Major one is rear tow arm hitting sub frame mount. Lowering our cars that much is retarded, its ruins how the suspension acts and throws the geometry all out of whack.
Damn that’s pretty low. You must be rubbing all over the wheel well liners at that height which is not cool sinces there’s a wiring harness running along the drivers’ side liner. If you want to stay low you should re-locate it before you burn right through it.
Anyways, why not raise the car back up a little and see if you still get those noises. Like the others said it’s simple. You dont even need to remove the coilover. Just loosen the lower perch lock and rotate the coilover body. Let me know if you need a hand.
thanks guys, i’ve been so busy with work and then putting new parts on the car i didnt even touch the coils yet. i will soon tho, hopefully this weekend
ya maybe i’ll lift it a tad
i also suspected the tc rod because at first i didn’t hear anything and then it suddenly came. tc rods are slightly ripped/stretched and im guessing with the stiffer spring rates more things are prone to get loosened etc. when i was taking off things i checked the coils and they were slightly loose as well. got maybe 1/2 to 1 turn into them
shrugs ill keep you guys updated once i finish gettn the parts in and after an alignment.
thanks for all the help guys, i’ll let you know if i need a hand Paul! thanks for the offer
edit: anyone use a hammer to tighten the collars? i think that woud help a great deal, but not sure if its damaging. obviously using the hammer to a certain extent, not all out brute force.
friend tried helping me out but ended up tightening the lower collar way too tight and tried to untighten them and fucked up both my spanners.
neways so i put everything back and drove around. sound still there. sounds like my spring is moving. i can single handledly twist the spring without undoing the collars. something wrong? if i tightened the collars that surround the spring, wont that change preload? being able to twist the spring single handled does not seem right and im sure im missing something. this is 95% of what i’m probably hearing. the sound of the spring twisting/rotating.
any help much appreciated. oh ya, and some advice on loosening the bottom collar before i keep breaking spanners.
you can twist the spring when the car is jacked up or on the ground on its own weight?
i assume you mean jacked up, in which case there will be no load on the spring (other than a few mm of preload) and you should be able to twist it pretty easily.
You should go loosen your collars if you tried to hammer them on, they usually seize in place and are a bitch to get off even when they are hand tight.
I’ve never had the collars on my stances seize, even when i didn’t touch them for a year and had 15mm preload on the springs. You don’t need to tighten the collars together with retarded amounts of force. Especially the bottom one :S
Did you raise the car? Man this shit isn’t rocket science.
EDIT: to remove the bottom collar take the bottom mount off the car/uprights so you can spin it. You should be able to spin the whole bottom assembly with ease once its unbolted from your uprights.
he is right though, being aluminum it doesnt take much force at all to lock the collars in to place nicely, just make them snug - it might feel loose while the car is jacked up but trust me, when you have the weight of a car sitting on them that shit isnt moving too easily and even if it were to move, it’s not the end of the world. just take it easy!
i called stance and they actually said to make it zero preload because adding preload actually changes the spring rates. the stance are valved for zero so i just did a few turns and thats it. it was preloaded at 1/4 inch before. also adding too much preload COULD cause slight understeer since your stiffening up the springs.
had some other bugs like the front would feel loose when going over bumps, seemed to be the top bolt holding the shock and etc together was a bit loose. the one where the camber plate is. stance told me to tighten to around 50-70bs. couldnt go anymore then 50lbs on one side cause the spring would just rotate so ill get someone with an impact to tigthen it a bit cause that one side that can’t go higher then 50lbs SOMETIMES feels loose when going over bumps.
going to get alignment done tmw and we’ll go from there. thanks to all those who have helped me!
ill give an update when all these lil things sort out, and hopefully soon!
EDIT: the binding sound i was hearing was becuase i added a bit of preload to it making the springs more tighter. the guy said when you turn the spring rotates but since i added some preload i guess it caused more friction and that was the sound that i was hearing. shrugs, it made sense to me, maybe its total bs. oh well. i don’t hear the sound that much anymore.
EDIT EDIT: On zilvia, a member, Munch, posted a thread on this same problem at the bottom of the page. good info and im wondering if any other members had this same problem in the beginning?
heres the thread, scroll down to where Munch posted.
thats interesting, I ran 15mm preload all last track season on my stances and I never heard any binding. It does not make sense to me, to have double collar adjustment coilover and not run any preload. Besides the fact you can keep the same stroke length at different ride heights. Which version are you running?
I have to admit that I don’t entirely understand how adding pre-load would cause binding. One would think that the tighter the spring is compressed the less chance there would be of it shifting around and making sounds. Now I could understand how a zero pre-loaded spring would make noises. Each time the damper expands past the point of where the spring is snugly seated you’ll get that annoying clank/pop sound of it re-seating upon compression of the damper.
As for that guy on Zilvia I wonder if he’s rotating the the wheel while the car is off the ground. Like the guys on here said if there’s no weight on the spring everything is going to be loose. I know that if my car is on stands and move the wheel left/right the coilover will rotate pretty much everywhere except at the top plate.
Also as a note When I spoke with the guys at Stance they told me the dampers were initially designed and valved for 9/7 spring rates. He also mentioned that they’re capable of handling rates from 5/3 up to 12/10 depending on how you set up the damping…that’s pretty badass! I don’t think you need to worry about slightly changing your spring rates by adding a bit of pre-load. I swapped out my springs to 6/4 to make my drive around T.O. a bit more comfortable and everything has been perfect.
i think its becasue the pillowball isn’t fully functioning and is moving as one unit, forcing the spring to move as well.
i’m not entirely sure, just waiting on the alignment now.
they also said for the binding sound, that flipping the spring helps as well. something about tolerance. if it doesn’t go within 1week flip the springs. if it still doesn’t go away they will ship new springs.
