Putting nitrous on the se-r. Starting with a 50 shot.
just got my nitrous kit, picked up from a guy in Rochester, good deal. (pics soon). also came with a brand new dynotune purge kit.
will be ordering a fuel pressure safety switch and nitrous gauge today (gauge recommendation?). still looking for a bottle heater, remote bottle opener, and a progressive controller.
also, if anyone has a good place for parts/getting the bottle filed, let me know. (amherst/buffalo area). Ive read the name J&J thrown around but have no idea who/what/where it is. im likely gonna need some jets and other nic-nacs here and there. bottle came half-filled but thatll go quick.
any tips, tricks, comments, or concerns will all be welcome.
i might have some questions on wiring on some point. planning on a doing a slow/clean install. want it hidden but accessible. today, ill be throwin the bottle in place, drilling holes for the line and running it to the engine bay. more if i have time. pics soon.
solenoids: i thought a piece was missing from this at first, since it only had 1 blue npt->an fitting, but i guess the fuel in/out and the n2o out dont need any, they just plug right onto the lines.
that little fitting had a filter, im assuming that would go before the solenoids, correct? its the only place that would need an/npt adapter. also, is no filter needed for the fuel solenoid?
you can see it here, plug into the “IN” side of the n2o solenoid. i originally thought this wasnt the place. since that outside end was a coned shape, i thought it should probably be facing the same direction as the flow, but i guess not…
thanks for your criticism, but my wiring is just fine. ive wired plenty of safc’s and sound setups, not worried about my skills. just never done a nitrous system, and wasnt sure about the relay. i recently found this, which seems very helpful: http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/nos-199r10297.pdf
just to add, the previous owners shitty “twist and tape” wiring will be re-done with solder
wtf? besides one being red, and the other blue, they seem to be the exact same part, if anything, the nitrous filter should be more expensive since it undergoes a higher pressure. any input would be great. i know its a measly 8 bucks, i just cant figure out why lol
Ha. I got the relay, no worries. Just wasnt sure which line went to the solenoids and which one came from the wot switch.
Never dealt with a wot switch before either, figured it would need a ground (as most switches do), as i said im new to nitrous. Thanks for all your help tho, i dont know what i would do without you guys <3
its a simple switch… a switch that requires ground would light up. relays work the same for every application, nitrous or not. that has absolutely nothing to do with it. youve never used a relay in any of your audio installs? if most of the switches you’ve encounted have 3 wires, you might be ricer ;). you asked for help and a member referred you to a course at ECC and you got pissy about it. dont you want to learn how to do things on your own and not post on a forum everytime you have a question about basic 12v elec?
mounted the bottle, ran the feed line and mounted the solenoids, started wiring for the relay. more this weekend.
went to j&j for some help with my fuel feed. forgot who i met, but he was a good guy (maybe scott?). tapped my existing T for a fpss and threw me an adapter real cheap. hopefully throwing that on this weekend as well.
said he fills bottles for 5/gallon. thats decent minus the fact its in elma. anyone know of a place around buffalo for a similar price?
