my mistake. /pound
so…anyone know of a place in buffalo?
so
just had all 4 wisdom teeth pulled, been feeling pretty shitty
but on a lighter note, some goodies came in
i started routing some wiring, but then thick blood started drooling out of my mouth lol
i likely keep working tomorrow or this weekend.
Honestly you should pay someone to do this before you pay some twice as much to fix what you’ve already done.
ha honestly you dont know me then.
Did you test the valves with pressure on them?
im tapping my fuel line today and then ill test both.
:tup:
got a ton done yesterday.
all my wiring is fucking complete. switches are in place. wiring is legit and ran everywhere it needs to be. purge is set up. gauge is set up. controller in place and functional. basically all that is left is tapping the fuel line and drilling the intake for the fogger.
unfortunately, i did test open the bottle and found a leak at my purge solenoid. so i pulled everything apart again and slapped a shitload more telfon paste on there. i let it harden overnight and hopefully no more leak today. i guess the upside is that was the only place there was a leak, at least that i could hear/feel.
pretty happy with everything.
oh, and i got to purge the lines when i started taking everything apart. lol that was fun. and loud!
i guess i didnt take as many pictures as i thought. mustve been really drugged up (go wisdom teeth). i wish i couldve gotten a picture of the wiring BONANZA behind my dash…with all my gauges, my car alarm, switches, and now this new stuff, theres a lot of shit back there. fortunately, its all pretty organized and secure.
sorry most of the pics are dark, i took em at night with the flash (ghey)
noids after i took em back out to fix the leak, all that shit was nicely tucked before. ill get another pic of em once they’re back in place and organized
arming switch. i was gonna make a panel, but said fuck it, i like drilling holes in my dash.
purge. and DONT give me a single comment about hitting it when i turn on my car. ive tested the distance, i dont. and even if i accidentally knock it, its a tough button to press, and has to be pressed down fully for it to purge
i shouldve lightened this picture up a bit. buts it the controller, fits nicely in a slot above the right cupholder, which has had absolutely no use, until now! i also left enough slack so if i want, i can pull it out and hold it in my hand, but i programmed it in that location last night, and it was comfortable. btw, programming this thing is EASY! i love it!
nitrous gauge. i just used the little cup they gave me. it works good, and fits nicely between my two other gauges. i like the way it looks, if its ricer, so be it.
for tps and rpm signal, i REALLY didnt want to pull the ecu. the 02-03 spec ecu is really hard to get to and get out, and didnt want to risk messing up my safc connections in there. i also didnt want to search with a voltmeter around the throttle body for the right wire either, nor tear apart the tach doing the same. so i took the easy route, and spliced right into my afc neo harness. fuck it, its mine, i cant do what i want with it! i cut it open on the side where the wires are bigger so id have more room to play (this is the half of the harness that splices into the ecu, but at the other end where it connects to the part which holds the wires going into the unit…if you have an safc hopefully you understand). just for informational purposes, this picture and wires are located on the passenger side by the glovebox area.
just made a little slit on the neo green wire (rpm) and wrapped the dynotune controller green rpm wire around it like so
gave it a little droplet of solder
did the same for the neo gray wire (throttle signal) to the controller blue wire (tps signal)
my soldering table LOL
lastly, i just taped it all up. neo wires on top and bottom, wires for controller running to the left.
after that i decided to do a quick programming of the controller. which as i stated, was freakin EASY. i didnt test/set the tps yes, cause it was late at night and you have to have the car running, figured id wait till morning. and thats when i realized it was 2:30AM and i needed to get some fuckin sleep.
more will be done today.
You should not have to have the car running to test that switch. I have the nitrous outlet controller and you simply set the ON rpm to “0”. Then key and engine off and go WOT. You should hear the solenoids open. Don’t know if it’s an electronic TB, but if it is have someone under the hood to verify each solenoid opening and closing.
Also as far as the progressive, does that RPM/Window have gear lockout? My controller gives me the option of locking out up to 2 gears.
no no, i just needed the car running to set the tps voltage. sorry for the confusion. the switch turns on when ignition has power and i flip the arming switch.
its a 1-stage non-progressive from dynotune, buts its upgradeable to a progressive for 50 bucks.
yes, it has lockout, you can choose a lockout of up to 4 gears, but who would want that ;). ill only be using 1st gear lockout, and only at the track. its a sweet little machine tho.
got some more stuff done today. tapped the fuel line, the stock one was a PITA to get off! but we got it, did the “sharpie cap” trick. ran my high pressure fuel injection hose and split it for the T to my fuel solenoid. also put my fuel pressure safety switch in place. checked for leaks, had a minor one at the T, tightened things up, leak gone.
also did a test run with the solenoids. i guess the way i have it set up, you DO have the have the engine on to test them. my tps signal to the controller doesnt read WOT (4.2V) unless the engine is on, must be because its hooked to my afc. anyways, i zip-tied my nitrous line to the windshield wiper and had a friend place the fuel line into a fuel can. set my window switch to start at 800 rpms, and gave the pedal a quick floor and nitrous/fuel shot out as expected. which means the switch is funtional and set up right, the safety switch works, relay works, everything works.
ALL thats left is drilling the intake and tuning. unfortunately i dont have any jets except the two that came with the kit. theyre a 50 shot according to a NOS chart and the kid i bought em from, but we’ll see what my wideband says and go from there.
pics tomorrow, it got dark.
thinking about placing an order for a bottle heater this weekend, oh and an e-cutout ; )
Bench testing :tup:
:tup: enjoy the torque. mine only picked up about 210tq from a 150 shot.
210 just from the shot?? on top of natural power?? that mustve been fun.
ive already assumed that im going to need to start searching for a new clutch by the end of summer/fall.
update: drilled the intake. went smoothly. wiped the intake with a towel and sprayed compressed air to clean out any little bits that were inside. also used the air to clean out anything that mightve been stuck in the fogger. used some loctite on the threads and sealant on the outside area.
heres a shot of how the noids and fuel line/fpss is is set up.
a few shots of the intake
lovin it
a lil later i put everything back together
fogger connected
final setup
wont start the car till tomorrow. gonna try not to spray till i have the bottle heater (well see how that works haha), but it should be here sometime within the next 4 days or so. then tuning.
yay. basically done.
Will that motor safely support nitrous? And I like to put my phone I that slot:)
damn u bob… i need my bottle filled and a purge line hooked up…Nice Progress!
the QR has been known to safely run tons of 50 and 75 shots all day. there is also a friend of mine who has put about 200lbs of a direct port 100 shot on stock internals. his car no longer has nitrous on it, but its well over 150k now, and chugs along just fine n/a for his daughter.
im at 86k, and my compression is fairly good (180,180,171,180, with perfect compression being 180psi). im going to run a safe tune and hopefully everything will hold up as expected. things happen sometimes tho, and im aware of that. if worse comes to worst, ill throw a new engine in it, or rebuild if possible. but lets hope it doesnt come to that! haha
yes you do! purge is easy, you have the solenoid hooked up, correct? just run the line where you want it to go.
and get that msd fixed. cant you just change the settings from 8cyl to 4cyl? does it really have to be reprogramed?