I changed the thermostat, which didnt do much, put cardboard in front of the rad still nothing and so today while I was putting around, my temp gauge actually went over 1/4 and there was heat but as soon as I pick up speed the temp dropped too the bottom again. Somthing has gotta be plugged, how easy is it to flush the heater core. I just had a thought is it possible my clutch fan is screwed.
Your heatercore is plugged, or a passage to or from it is.
replaced it, never did one on a 240, but heatercores are always fun to change.
-deez
never did one on a 240 but a while back i changed the core on an Eagle Premier
the whole dash had to come out and yes, it was a whole bunch of fun
Should I not just try to flush it first, I did a heater core in a jetta last summer and that was a pain, at least you could move around in that car.
I dont even want to think about trying this one. I guess ill just wait till spring to drive the car.
You can try to flush it, or have it flushed ata rad shop. What they will do is remove both the input and output hoses and pump coolant through both directions, starting with the output to try and unplug it. Usually cheap enough to have done. Had it done on both my Suzuki Samurai and my Grand AM.
I had the same problem… Changed my stat, cardboard infront of the rad, and still no luck. Then i took the input/output hoses off the firewall, and pumped the water hose through it for 10 minutes, seemed to fix the problem…Lots of heat now 8)
Did you pump the heater core or the engine (probably the core right)
Both.
if the heater core was pluged, your temp gauge would still read hot as the engine will still heat up…most likely what you have is a air bubble in the cooling system that is not allowing the thermostat and the temp sensor to open, so the coolant doesnt flow …no heat. with the car COLD, as in dont drive it first, remove the rad cap. start the car and let it run 5-10 min, watching the coolant level in the rad, once it drops, fill it with coolant. this is the air coming out from behind the themostat, the level may drop and rise a few times so you may lose some coolant. once you can see the coolant flow int the rad, and it is now full…replace the cap and enjoy the benifits of in car heating. :twisted: :idea:
You know that kinda makes sence but not realy, even if there was a air pocket I would think that the temp gauge would go to red untill the thermo opened and then drop to normal and deliver heat. The weird thing with mine is it doesnt give any heat at all almost like there is no thermostat in it and its free flowing. Well what the hell ill try anything at this point. ill let you know what happens.
News update: Ok I just went out and took the rad cap off and started it, allmost imiediatly there was flow in the rad which leads me to believe that the thermo is stuck open. I let it idle for half an hour and the gauge did not move so unfortunately I have to replace the thermo again (hopefull not crack the housing).
an air pocket will definetly keep the temp sensor cold and not alow the thermostat to open. if you have flow instatanly then the thermo is stuck open, do not replace it with a fail safe, get a 192-195 degree tstat and be sure to bleed all the air out again, :twisted:
hey kawicowboy.
Did you ever figure it out?
I’m having the same troubles.
Yeah I know, it’s still hot outside. But I don’t want to be fixing this
when it’s freezing cold either.
Now is the better to fix this for me.
I’m thinking that it’s the actual air/mix door adjustment.
Might be stuck in cool air only.
Let me know. Thanks.
maybe your temp gauge is fucked?
you can drive without a thermostat and the engine will still get hot, you can’t trust that crappy gauge.
… also… make sure that when you have the “heat” on, you’re blowing fresh air in… not recirculating 
the thermostat works, and i had a coolant flush last year so i don’t
think it’s those.
the only thing i can think of that’s left is the actual climate control unit, or the vents that mix the hot and cold air.
Having a hard time checking it since i don’t know how to test if it’s the
climate control unit, or where the location of the vents are.
would anybody be able to tell me if the air mix for hot/cool air
is reachable through the dash.
Does anybody know what I’m talking about???
it’s just a big mechanical flap. when you move the adjuster on your dash it pulls a cord that moves the flap, you should be able to hear it move around when you change from 100% cold to 100% hot.
if you’re not blowing decent heat here are a few reasons
-
the heater core is clogged / tubes collapased; I doubt this is the cause 'cause like you said, you just had a flush and all that jazz… unless the car was sitting for a long time?
-
you got recirculation on instead of drawing in fresh air. I know this sounds stupid but for whatever reason when recirculating you don’t get any heat from the heater core (maybe the way it’s routed I don’t know)
-
the flap is boinked, if you take off your glove box you might be able to poke around, but like I said, you should be able to hear the flap when switching from cold to hot.
-
the fan doesn’t work. can you hear the fan roaring when you put it on full blast? does cold pull in air? maybe the entire system is clogged with leaves and other junk.
-
you have it set on windshield and you’re holding your hands infront of the driver vents thinking… “uhh… wtf?”
-
along with #5, the flap / actuator that changes from windshield to driver to legs is busted and is stuck in windshielf (the current state of my honda)
that’s all assuming you / someone else hasn’t touched anything (ie changing tubes, rerouting stuff, etc). if that’s the case then anything can be wrong.
hope this helps.
I had this problem too, my solution;
the as-hole that stole my radio forcably removed it from the dash, in the process he tugged the long wire that goes from the temp lever to the heater switching box deep within the dash, disconnecting it from the heater box
maybe the problem? ever fart around inside your dash before?
it’s just a big mechanical flap. when you move the adjuster on your dash it pulls a cord that moves the flap, you should be able to hear it move around when you change from 100% cold to 100% hot.
if you’re not blowing decent heat here are a few reasons
- the heater core is clogged / tubes collapased; I doubt this is the cause 'cause like you said, you just had a flush and all that jazz… unless the car was sitting for a long time?
Don’t think this is it either.
- you got recirculation on instead of drawing in fresh air. I know this sounds stupid but for whatever reason when recirculating you don’t get any heat from the heater core (maybe the way it’s routed I don’t know)
Maybe. Although I can’t confirm this since there’s no heat coming out at the moment.
- the flap is boinked, if you take off your glove box you might be able to poke around, but like I said, you should be able to hear the flap when switching from cold to hot.
Will try this one when I have the chance. I only took out the radio, and centre vents last time. Didn’t remove the glove compartment.
- the fan doesn’t work. can you hear the fan roaring when you put it on full blast? does cold pull in air? maybe the entire system is clogged with leaves and other junk.
Fan works. 1-4 setting works fine. It does pull in cold air. My A/C is freezing even if the temp setting is set to “HOT”.
- you have it set on windshield and you’re holding your hands infront of the driver vents thinking… “uhh… wtf?”
Definately no. Funny though.
- along with #5, the flap / actuator that changes from windshield to driver to legs is busted and is stuck in windshielf (the current state of my honda)
Even funnier than # 5.
that’s all assuming you / someone else hasn’t touched anything (ie changing tubes, rerouting stuff, etc). if that’s the case then anything can be wrong.
hope this helps.[/quote]
Thanks for you feedback Luka.
I’m at my wits end then.
try this., let the car get to operating temperatures and then CAREFULLY touch the inlet / outlet rad lines going into the heater core. maybe that’ll give us some insight.
or a messy way of doing thing, pull the inlet out and see if it pisses out coolant when the car is running (I recommond you drain it and put only water in for this experiment)
if it’s pissing out water then atleast you know the heater core is getting water. after that, reattach the inlet and take off the outlet, if it’s also pissing out water then you know you’re getting good circulation through the core and it’s all good from that respect.
if you don’t want ot get dirty then try to access the core from inside and try to touch it. although I don’t remember how easily accessible the actual core itself is.