no start problem

98 sentra, 1.6 (ga16de)

ok, driving down the road today, car just shut off and i coasted to a stop…got the car towed home, started testing things, wasnt really getting much spark, and i also broke one of my plug wires (werent that old to begin with…bosch platinums<6mo. old) so i ran over to advance and got me some new plugs and wires and threw them in, still nothing…cap and rotor are less than 6 months old as well, can pop start car and it will idle at about 300-400rpm and slowly die out…about 20 or 30 ft. after i let go of the clutch…if that…any ideas?

gas

between 1/4 and 1/2 tank…lol

distributer

Will it idle fine if you don’t engage the clutch?

Does it die after the same amount of running time each time?

Does it sound like it’s missing when it’s idling or it sounds just right?

im down to that or the fuel pump…hopin its the pump…haha

it wont start unless pop started (if its running and i engage the clutch it will die)

yes, about the same amount

it idles about as smoothly as it can at half the normal idle RPMs…lol but it will die after about 5-10 seconds in gear

P.S. thanks for helpin me out in a tight spot frank!!

But without trying to engage the clutch it will stay idle’ing at half the RPM’s? Or does it die like that too?

What happens when you turn the key and it won’t start under normal circumstances? One click and nothing? Lights dim? The trrrrrrrr sound of relay constantly clicking?

How does it die when it does, sputter or just instand cold death?

why would you be hoping its the fuel pump? thats a shit ton more work if you are fixing this yourself and if you bring it somewhere its a lot more money.

well it initially happened when i was driving…just shut down…when i went to restart it…it cranks and turns over like its trying to start…but it just sounds like nothing is catching…

if i depress the clutch after popstarting…it will die…

fuel pump is ~$44
distributor is ~$173

and the pump is a hell of a lot easier to install…

It doesn’t sound right if it won’t start under normal circumstances but will start after pop starting.

Could be your cam or crank angle sensor even, hard to tell without more description.

However if it runs at all, its unlikely that it’s your fuel pump, they are usually all or nothing, this seems to be a disagreement with the sensors that it dies as soon as you engage load and get off your idle air control valve onto other running sensors.

if its the cam sensor i need a new distributor…its all together/one unit…(distributor, cam sensor and coil pack) :banghead

EDIT: ill also clean out my IAC valve and see if that helps…
and also…it might have sputtered off the starting fluid i tried spraying in there…

Clogged cat?

i doubt it…i drove the car from slingerlands to scotia, then back without a hiccup…car ran smooth as glass…until i was turning onto 85 off blessing rd…:frowning:

Make sure your MAF is clean. Any debris sucked into the MAF sensor itself will kill the engine if its big enough, it will definately hinder the engines ability to run smoothly, rev, idle, etc…

Pull off your dist. cap and just make sure the contacts are clean. Kind of preventative at this point. This issue would slowly deteriorate the performance of the car… but it doesn’t hurt to check.

Could be a fuel pressure/pump issue. Chances are good its a pump by the sounds of it, but check the free stuff first. Easy to replace at least!

i turned key to ON position…heard faint humming/buzzing maybe hissing? it was hard to describe…idk if it was the fuel pump cuz from what i could remember before it was louder (than it is right now)…

i hear the hissing part more when i have my ear in the filler neck…light buzzing/humming inside the car…sorry if it sounds weird…im just trying to convert what im hearing to words the best i can…

also…checked the cap and rotor…they seem to be in good shape…there was also oil in my airbox…immediately cleaned that out…as well as wiped out my MAF, checked ignition switch fuse, as well as other fuses, havent found any blown ones yet…

You can wipe out the MAF and it probably won’t do much. Remove the sensor from the housing (this is what matters) and get some electronics cleaner or MAFS-specific cleaner.

If anything gets on that wire (like oil and dirt), it will not vibrate properly - or at all - depending on the buildup and the ecu won’t know what to do.

If you hear hissing now, with the key on, it should be the fuel pump as those don’t have secondary air systems iirc. Make sure its not your blower motor on low or something though too… haha. If it is indeed the pump and is quieter, it could be shot, or you could be loosing your mind/going deaf and it was always that quiet.

my blower motor doesnt work on low so i know it wasnt that! haha…thats another one of the stupid little problems with the car…and im pretty sure its quieter than it was before…but at the same time im getting little/no spark…could that be because im not getting any fuel? or am i just retarded and not testing spark correctly? this shits annoying the fuck out of me…

If you’re getting weak spark, the only thing that has anything to do with spark is the distributor/cam sensor, coil, plugs, wires, and ecu (plus associated wiring from ecu to dizzy). If spark is weak, but present, its probably a coil issue.

Fuel pump and MAF do not have anything to do with spark.