lookin sweet
Question, as almost everyone here is more knowledgeable than me:
When converting to disk brakes, what all needs done?
I know I’m going to need a prop valve to control pressure to the rear. I was told and I believe so, but I’m not sure, that I’m going to need a new master cylinder too? What else is needed / any input? Being that I’m not going to be far from Jeff at school, I’m thinking of just buying the stuff and having him do all of that. Then the following weekend, I’d do the rear end swap.
i’d wait to do the brake stuff and rear at the same time. will need a proportioning valve from a disk brake car. Dont think you need to change the master but it wouldnt hurt.
Got my 1.7" Skulte spacers in the mail, so I drove home from school real quick excited to put the front wheels on. On the drive back to school, I noticed that my steering wheel shakes back and fourth at higher speeds. This has me worried. Either the wheels didn’t get balanced right, or I have no idea. When I do make it back home, I’m going to bolt my old wheels to the spacers and see if I get vibrations with that. Hopefully not. Any ideas guys?
Try rotating the spacers?
make sure the spacers are bolted down tight and check them after driving awhile. They can loosen up over time.
balance may be off too i’m not sure. Should get it checked out and aligned while your at it
The rears on yet? I dont remember if you got that rear end on yet or not
No rears yet. I did tighten them down after driving 5 miles like they said, but it might’ve gotten loose again. Asian Dan gave me a huge list of things to do. Oh, also, you know how there were some slight clearance issues on your car? Being at stock ride-height they fit the car like a glove. 
Loc-tite the nuts that hold the spacers,ur stuff will go out monday!
wheels look great Noah ! ! !
Awesome, thanks Brian! Loc-tite is a good idea.
From what I’m reading, I may be in luck as far as the rear-end goes. I’m not entirely sure on this as I’ll have to confirm, but I’m told that all 91-92 cars had the same MC’s and Prop Valves as the disk cars. If this is true, I can just bolt in the rear-end and bleed the brakes. Anyone have any input on this? I think it sounds kinda fishy. One way or another I’m going with an adjustable prop valve anyways, but if this is true, it’d certainly tide me over having all four wheels on the car.
i wouldnt think a drum car would have the same proportioning valve as a disk. completely different pressures between the two
That was my thought behind it. Mike (Quik83Z) thinks I’m going to need a new master cylinder too. So I’m just confused to all hell as to everything I’m going to need.
why not just throw it in and see how it feels ?
Only problem with that is if I do that, and it’s not right, I won’t have enough time to order the parts and put them in before I’d need to be back at school. And traveling on Route 28 and 279 without properly functioning brakes is worse than suicide.
car will look great doing it though!:bigthumb:
Brian said he has put them in and has had no issues buddy…he also said said the same thing on the 91-92 having the same MC & prop valves
from my memory 88-92 are the same disc or drum!
Thanks Brian. As soon as I get your care package I’m just swapping it in and seeing how it goes.
87 TA just took out some valve in the drum proportioning valve to allow more line pressure to the rear. Its worked good for him on his LT1 disk swap. Not sure exactly what he did but it worked
I’m not sure how it works but i know ppl have done disks swaps before and didnt change the drum MC or PV and it worked ok.
SSBC has an orfice for the trucks when switching from rear drums to rear disks. The Prop valve can be reused with the new orfice.
Just an fyi…