My 2000 civic just had a new stainless header back system put on. The person who welded it together flipped the test pipe/converter and the o2 bung is facing the ground. The car is lowered so with the sensor in it will smack the ground if i hit a bump. My question is could i just use a 90* elbow and insert the sensor without a problem since that o2 is just a monitor and wouldn’t cause driveability issues or will it not read? Any help would be great since i don’t have any time to deal with this screw up. Thanks
UPDATE: Found out my header has a bung that’s capped off, would it matter to move it before the converter?
The secondary O2 sensor is basically just a monitor for the cat. If you move it before the cat, it will think the cat is bad and throw a CEL.
If you move it pre-cat, you can do the spark plug antifouler trick, but it may still throw a CEL.
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Wait juat?
I was gonna say I have an 02 defouler that I don’t need anymore. . .
here is a pic of what i mean.
Technically that should throw a CEL for low cat effeciency.
Yeah that should throw a CEL, you can try a defouler, but that might not always work. Also you can try and insert a resistor to try and trick the computer that way…
lemme see if I can find a link to that method…
this is for a Mazda3, but should be fairly universal
Thanks for the info. Ill try moving it and using a defouler and post results today.
can you get a bung welded into the exhaust behind the cat? that should be a quick and easy fix at any muffler shop.
why dont you just take it back to the dumbass that welded the pipe in that way, have em cut it out turn it 90 degrees and weld it back in? itll take all of 30 minutes on a lift and itll work the way it was meant to.
thats what i was going to say… should have put it in the right way the first time, no need for you to have to dick around with something they did wrong.
Sooo is the pipe with the bung a test pipe or a cat? you keep calling it both? and if it is a test pipe, no matter where the bung is you will need something to fool the second 02 sensor, no matter its location. I would use the anti fouler method, as it has worked well for me in the past on a couple of cars.
^ its not just a straight test pipe. It is a magnaflow hi-flow converter. Before the full exhaust was changed the previous stock converter was hollowed out and no CEL was on. As far as taking it back to the guy to redo it, i have already gotten my money back for the hack work and just trying to get it driveable until i can take it elsewhere.