a good match but expensive engine might be to get an rb30 into an s chassis and left as non-turbo, maybe high-comp pistons and cams that thing would roar
reliable to beat on, zero turbo lag, musical exhaust
a good match but expensive engine might be to get an rb30 into an s chassis and left as non-turbo, maybe high-comp pistons and cams that thing would roar
reliable to beat on, zero turbo lag, musical exhaust
VG heads just need to be properly ported. Add some Z32 pistons to bump up the 7.8:1 compression ratio.
A set of 200 dollar ISKY cams and you’re in the power business.
In 1990 the IMSA Z32 made 750hp in race trim and 900hp in qualifying trim.
Thing is that it wasn’t the DOHC…it was the SOHC. Super bad ass.
These engines are getting thrown away almost everyday. The VG30e is almost the same engine and was in many Nissan cars and trucks.
You could afford to have one fully tricked out VG30et/VG33et making roughly 500hp AND equal torque for about the same as a basic SR swap. And still have a few engines worth of parts left.
BUT it’s not an easy swap to do properly…
www.redz31.com/turbofaq/dyno.graphs.html
Look at the torque figures. The 2nd one is a very set-up similar to what a friend of mine and I built about 4 years back.
We got the entire donor car with rotten chassis but MINT engine (complete with maintenance records) for $100.
CA… Iron block as opposed to the pop can SR block. The block along with its internals can and will handle more power than the SR without any modification. The CA block is essentially an RB block minus two cylanders. Anyone that smack talks a CA in favour of an SR should do some research. A CA can handle 1000 hp with without blowing up, good luck trying that with any SR besides the $30,000 toda SR.
CA wins.
CA… Iron block as opposed to the pop can SR block. The block along with its internals can and will handle more power than the SR without any modification. The CA block is essentially an RB block minus two cylanders. Anyone that smack talks a CA in favour of an SR should do some research. A CA can handle 1000 hp with without blowing up, good luck trying that with any SR besides the $30,000 toda SR.
CA wins.[/quote]
Agreed, if anything the SR is the budget motor. Even Nissan downgraded to it because the CA was too expensive.
The SR makes cheaper power because cheaper parts are readily available and it comes with 200cc extra. Once you hit 400+hp, the CA is the clear choice.
CA… Iron block as opposed to the pop can SR block. The block along with its internals can and will handle more power than the SR without any modification. The CA block is essentially an RB block minus two cylanders. Anyone that smack talks a CA in favour of an SR should do some research. A CA can handle 1000 hp with without blowing up, good luck trying that with any SR besides the $30,000 toda SR.
CA wins.[/quote]
Agreed, if anything the SR is the budget motor. Even Nissan downgraded to it because the CA was too expensive.
The SR makes cheaper power because cheaper parts are readily available and it comes with 200cc extra. Once you hit 400+hp, the CA is the clear choice.[/quote]
how many rocker arms or valve trains you seen explode is a ca from reving? NONE.
I think people most common problem with them is they hear they are unreliable, which may or maynot be true. They are older motors, But all the parts to rebuild them are here and are cheap. If you get one, pop the head off and replace the gasket, you’ll thank yourself in the long run.
Yep… I’d buy a CA18 before I put anymore money into my SR20 and am even considering getting a CA for next year instead of rebuilding my SR over the coming winter… figured I’d be better of rebuilding a CA18 instead and then putting my mine into that the following year
List of all engines and specs
edit…most engines… wouldn’t you know it… found an engine that I wanted to know about and it wasn’t on there…
[quote=“mikeness”]
To my knowledge you have only been in 1 ca setup, and it did have some problems.
Don’t knock it until you really know what you are talking about. Its very comparable with the a sr with the same upgrades.
The main difference I notice is that aftermarket parts and full engine sets are usually eaiser to come by with a sr.
Ca is a great engine with turbo upgrade (even a sr t25), exhaust, and intercooler. Its a much smoother and freely revving engine.
Isn’t there some guy who owns a gas station or something around the Niagara area with an insane CA setup he imported ?
I’d reccomend a SR over a CA only because they are eaiser to get full sets , eaiser to get parts for, and its a really good engine.
If you can get a good CA setup for a good price, go for it, its a great engine aswell.[/quote]
i currently own this 180 with teh ca you speak of and yes indeed it is one nasty nasty car
I was debating the SR-20 swap but I don’t have all the money upfront are the moment. This is why I plan on a slight rebuild of the KA to make it not only run better but it would allow me to use a turbo setup. The plan at the moment is to gain around 200-250hp N/A and start working out a turbo system. I am debating still between this and an SR20.
you’ll put more money into making a 250hp n/a ka then you would a 300hp KA-T. N/A isnt really worth it unless you need the instant throttle responce without the lag. plus to build an n/a engine you want a higher c/r where as with a turbo motor a lower c/r is more desirable for reliablity.
I was considering the VG swap for so long. It just looked so awesome. www.180sxfaktory.com is coming out with a kit to do the swap with. Custom subframe, mounts, cross members, downpipes and all that goodness. I managed to talk myself out of it because the timing wasn’t right. Now, after reading billions of forums and looking at tons of web pages, I think I am going to beat on my KA over the summer and really get to know the car, then garage it for the winter. Thinking of doing a CA, and getting it all prepped and familiarizing myself with it over the winter, and then dropping that in. I do not need a ton of power as I already have tons of fun with the KA. I like the design of the CA head, and the relatively bulletproof design of it all gives me room to grow in the future if I change my mind. Anyways, it is just my opinion. No more or less valid than anyone elses!
is a vg30de swap difficult for an s14?
been looking at some…
does anyone know if it’s a straight fit? what about wiring?
google anyone?
how bout we throw in vs LS1 …since these swaps are being done more now…
i will wager the Ls1 is the ultimate s13/s14 swap…
what about an LS6 or LS7…
i have no idea about domestic motors but i think these are what come in never vettes amirite?
yep…
there is Ls1, Ls6, ls7
all variations …ls6 and ls1 are the same…except for heads and some other parts…ls7 is the newer motor that the vette uses
If ur doing a vg30de might as well add in the TT part… Theres a mount kit for 1500 from cali. that mounts them in… comes with everything you’d need… tho It recomends having a front clip
ive read that theres way to much work involved wit turbo’ing the vg30de
did the research when i thiking about buying a Z.
Check this out… turboing a VG30DE… Why would you turbo it when you could just get a VG30DETT froma 300zx twin turbo.
Check out the site. Its different alright but oh soo cool