So would a +25 wheel, with a 10mm spacer be 15mm, or 35mm
because the 17x9 +28, with 7mm spacer would have the same clearance from the suspension as a 17x8 +35 wheel correct?
A +25 w/ 10mm wheel would be = to a +15
The lower the offset the more it POKES
Just buy a wheel that has the proper backspacing to begin with so it doesn’t interfere with
suspension components. Lower offset = less backspacing so it clears suspension bits, but it’ll
poke out more. Gotta find that perfect width/offset combo so it has the ideal backspacing but
also so it fits inside the fenders.
lol, what about cars that come factory with spacers?
If my 10,000lb Audi with coil overs and lo-pro tires can handle massive south towns pot holes with bolt-ons I think they are safe for most cars. lol
the only reason i dont track with mine is my rear suspension is so soft that it would rub all the time and my track wheels are a +24 compared to the +31 on the roush wheels
rubbin is racin son…insert Days of Thunder pic
CHANGE MY SPACERS!
Errr I mean tires!
haaaa love you mike
fuck spacers! buy proper wheels 
negative offset FTW
Sorry im not going to be running fucking 16x6.5 shitty ass 40lbs steal salad tosser shitty ass OEM rims
I know what i have to do in order to get my wheels to fit. I was just asking if bolt on spacers are safe or not.
thanks for the people who actually provided useful information
wooooo we are just having fun…spacers are fine…get some eibach or H&R DRS series…they come with longer studs…and you will be ok
i was saying that to everyone saying, run the right sized wheel blah blah
i think im just going to get bolt ons. less of a hassle. and i can’t slam my car anyways, so i dont think the sticking outside the fender will matter, other than ruining my paint. Mudflaps ftw
i run spacers on both of my cars full time plus track… no changing.
however, i run my custom bings spacers that are perfectly hub centric to nissan hubs and always run good studs.
on my coupe i had these custom machined:
perfectly hub centric to the hub and to the bore of my CCW classics. ARP 100-7708 studs pressed into the spacers and more ARP studs pressed into the hubs on the car that were milled down to the perfect length to fit on the car… a little excessive but with the integrated centre cap it works out well… $500+ option though because it was one-off.
On the rear of my coupe and all corners of my S14 i run these:
again, perfectly hub centric to the car… Peak extended studs but only because they came on a parts car i bought and i swapped the hubs over onto this car… otherwise i would most certainly use ARP studs because ARP studs are fucking awesome… i have never had a failure with ARP’s and i am not delicate with my studs at all… this is the big problem with most bolt-ons, they use sketchy hardware.
I have literally had lugs shear right off the studs on my car when i was driving… they were cheapo Touge Factory stackable spacers from 2006… china parts use shit hardware… okay for some parts of the car, but not your wheels.
If you use proper stuff… hub centric spacers and ARP studs then they are 100% safe… at times probably better than stock because ARP studs are probably higher grade than OEM in many cases.
Moreover, even though newman is an engineer and i wouldnt go toe to toe with him on that type of thing there are other reason to use spacers.
Offset is the distance of the mountian pad of the wheel from the centre line of the wheel… but it give no indication of clearance of the spokes. you can have low offset wheels with a short mounting pad and thus very low clearance for the spokes to clear larger brake calipers or other suspension pieces…
as an example, clearing Z calipers on 240sx’s is not offset dependent, it is spoke clearance dependent.
wheel spacers address both spoke clearance and offset issues… getting the ‘right wheel’ based on offset does not address spoke clearance if you have larger calipers.
Moreover, alot of awesome wheels, like BBS for example, may offer multiple offet configurations but on their mesh wheels the caliper clearance can be tight… spacers may be required.
I run spacers on my 350z wheels on my S14 simply to go with a wider track and flush out the wheels… yeah i could buy better fitting wheels but i got these wheels and tires for like $400… so why would not strap on some spacers…
if you swap wheels relatively often or swap cars or wheels between them often then spacers is a great way to add wheel-choice-flexibility into your car/wheel option/diet.
people who don’t see the value havent owned enough like-cars & like-wheels at the same time over a long enough period of time…
fukkin snobs.
thank you very much bing
too bad nissans center bore is 66something, mines 67 
the ichiban spacers are from touge factory, but i think they use pretty legit hardware. The main reason im considering the spacer/stud combo is because im not sure how long i’ll have my car, but i want to keep the rims because i can use them on any other car that i would be interested in owning