did it fire tonight? you have to be getting excited it has to be close
haha was gonna do it but it got dark so i called it a nite. I had to run to the parts store 2 times to try a different belt. March has 2 belts listed that are required but neither will work as i already measured before getting them and it was CLEAR they were wayyyy short. Assholes. SO i got belts that I thought were gonna be perfect. They were not. WEnt back to get different ones. One works fine for the alternator but the power steering one now is too long. I need an inbetween if they have it else i dont know what the hell i can do other than look into another pulley?
Goin back tomorrow morn to see about the belt and then finish the install. May work on the base tune file tonight and prepare that.
It will fire one way or another tomorrow.
one step closer at least
better to take your time than to rush it
curious… I presume your running a Return fuel system… Are you feeding the rails first then crossing over then down the other rail then into regulator then return line?
looks intersting and curious how all this will play out
sweet justin,works paying off for u!
sweet diesel u got mphboy 
Yep return style like stock. Feed in, then cross over then into regulator, then into return line to tank. I wanted a parrallel system but Lonnie said it wasnt necessary
sounds like how mine is. mine feeds passengerside and regulator is off the driverside. simple but effective way of fuel routing
It packaged up real nice, regulator mounted to the firewall easily and I still have room for the dizzy. Its nice having victor EFI with elbow on top since it leaves sooo much more room around the top of the motor to work on.
Stealth ram was sweet intake but the plenum was massive and couldnt work on anything around the intake
so dose she run?
decided to refab the ypipe today and fit rest of the exhaust. Everything is just about done. Oil in the motor and its primed up. Gonna add gas, power it on and flush the fuel line then go for startup tomorrow if everything electrical seems to be in order.
Working on a base tune for it now. I got a supercharged 383 bin file and several cyclone/typhoon turbo 4.3L files to look at but I got an idea of what to put in for a target
ur gettin it!
from my experience trying to use a supercharge file isnt as help full as one thinks. they have a constant power increase at set points of the table. A Turbocharged tune has various points where it needs more addressing then others. Since a turbo vehicle gets loaded differently thruout the rpm range in various gears.
best advice i can give you is for safe tune. anything over 100 g/cyl make your timing 8* and anything over 115 kpa make your fuel around 115. this will net you a rich tune but it will be safe till you can start leaning the car out. now the when your boost starts ramping scale that 115 back down to 107 smoothly so you have a easier transition into boost.
the 115 and 107 are referrring to the VE table. since a NA vehicle sees tops of 98% ve on its best day.
as you start leaning the car out start playing with timing 1 degree at a time.
not sure how intelligent your software is none of this might apply or it might. If you need any insigt feel free to ask
good luck with your build!!!
Fired it up today. Doesnt want to run on its own, i gotta play with the tune more. SOunds badass, not much different from last years car except a touch quieter…which is odd since the compression and cam are completely different.
Quik, thanks for the advice but the software i’m using doesnt quite have the same numbers but I understand what your saying. I plan to keep it safe and try to go up slowly
try this for your idling issue. what is the new motor with cam and etc? how much different is it vs a stock 350 vs your 383?
take a combination of the two and use that for your idle and part throttle fueling. a Boosted tune isnt that much different then a NA tune untill you see over 105 kpa. Since a NA motor is 0 to 105kpa your tune in that sector shouldnt be much crazier then it would be if the turbos arent on there. once you see over 105kpa then that is when you need to start really playing with timing and fuel
one thing youll have to tune around is that style intake your not running. that will take some playing around with since the air coming into the motor isnt how your used to tuning with.
Thats the problem, this tune (code) is completely different from other thirdgen camaro tunes available.
My old motor was MAF sensor and this one is 3-bar MAP. I’m using whats called code $59 which is modified GM syclone/typhoon code. The parameters inside this code are slightly different than the 3rd gen fbody $8D code. $8D is naturally aspirated only code for one
I do have a code for a naturally aspirated 383 using $8D code. Some of the tables in there I may beable to borrow but the way the fueling is done on $59 is different from $8D.
I’ll keep playing with the stuff I got in the car now. It was doing ok with slight throttle input to keep it idling although very rich. I just need to reset base timing to its correct position and go from there. I thought i had it but I forgot to disconnect est timing wire since its been awhile for me with running vehicles.
I believe I need to lean it out a ton and once air fuel is somewhat in the area of 14-15 to 1 and the motor is happy, then i can really work out the idle bugs. I got a few more ideas tomorrow to try.
For me the idle is the hardest thing to get. Hard to find a base bin with a setup like mine, most bins available are not as radical and I dont even consider mine as radical.
damm MAF sensor cars
SD is actually alot easier to tune but im sure with the older pcms being as unintelligent as they are its harder to dial them in. Im not familar with those style codes youre referring to. For the amount of work you have done you probably could of got a LS1 based engine harness and pcm and adapted it to your setup. you would of needed a front engine cover like on the vortecs to get your cam signal. I looked into doing this on a LT1.
with combos not of the ordinary you have to think on your own in cases and outside box.
your motor is what 401? im sure the cam is smaller then the 383’s. if yoru little rich then take a percentage and reduce it and see how that goes. if it richens it then go the opposite direction. also adding timing will stablize idle much better of a decent size cam
MAF>sd
MAF should be easier to tune than SD. Atleast in the thirdgen world, MAF cars are easier to tune. Its just that the MAF runs out of reading room and you have to rely on PE mode to get the extra fuel. If they had an LS1 type maf, things be alot better
I’ll see how it goes tonight. Motor is a 401 with a 233/233 .564/.564 cam on a 112. Bit smaller than last years cam but motor is larger so it should make it act smaller. It sounds pretty badass tho so idk.
I just need to get my startup down. I need to adjust my low rpm/high map ve’s to see if that helps
LS1s are based off VE, the LS2+ pcms are a more MAF based pcm.
with that being said just keep at it and keep it safe till you figure things out. also so you know you dont hurt the motor keep yoru WGs open so next to no boost is built till you work out hte bugs