It’s time for a new thread. I changed the knock sensor (with a less cracked one with intact harness I found in my basement lol), now I have code 55, all clear. All on a stock KA24DE.
Car runs great when cold, even after it gets to operating temp, if I beat on it or have been driving for a while, it becomes super anemic. It feels like the ECU is pulling significant timing or something. It took me like 10 seconds to get from 80-100 km/h in 5th at WOT…
I have a Walbro fuel pump, new O2 sensor, new fuel filter, new air filter, new plugs, new wires. The engine stalls if I push the EGR diaphragm up, so that’s good too. MAF was cleaned, coolant temperature sensor gives good voltage.
If I turn the car off for 5 minutes, and then start it again, it feels super quick and punchy, but after a few minutes goes back into anemic mode. I don’t understand what’s going on, it seems ECU controlled, not a mechanical fault.
Thanks for reminding me, that seems like a likely candidate if I have dead spots, but it doesn’t seem to. It just felt really slow under 3k in 5th. I’ll test it tomorrow. I can’t believe I overlooked that one.
Btw, does anyone have a timing light in the Scarborough area? I’ll buy you a beer. lol
is it misfireing? or just acting gutless. Double check all your grounds, make sure they are clean and protected. It’s amazing how many weird problems can be caused by a bad ground. How is the distributor?
The distributor cap has one screw missing, lol. So you can pretty much flex it away from the distrubutor assembly on one side. Not my fault, the guy who reinstalled the engine took many, many shortcuts.
It is definetely not misfiring, it just feels like its pulling timing and just making noise while barely accelerating. Kind of like having a 300 lbs. passenger. I KNOW my car should be faster than this, but this is the only 240 I’ve ever driven.
Well let’s put it this way, I had to get into the right lane, while I was in the left lane at a light. There was an automatic altima in the right lane. I barely passed him flooring it, taking the car to almost 6k…like wow.
ouch, I want to say it almost sounds like something is restricting the motor, almost like clogged exhaust…though if the problem is intermittent this obviously is not the case. The dizzy missing the screw isnt helping your cause, the fact that this problem only flares up when the car is warm would point to a connection issue,…suck as corrosion in or around a connection, or even a burnt wire in the harness. Start simple and cheap, make sure all your grounds are squeaky clean, check all electricial connections pretaining to the ignition system, and the crank position sensor. If possible try to follow the wires back as far as you can. Let me know how this turns out for you and we can take it further once we have covered some basic problematic areas.
I checked the codes again after driving to Peterborough and back. Long drive.
I got code 14, which is speed sensor. My speedo has been cutting in and out, especially at lower speeds, and when the car’s cold it doesn’t even move until about 45 km/h. lol
IIRC, this started happening after 240coupe did my 5 spd. swap. I was under the car a few days ago, I noticed that the 2 yellow wires coming from the transmission, which I’m assuming is to the speed sensor, were bare and only one was electrically taped. lol fail.
The weak issue is only happening in fifth gear under 3100rpm intermittently. It feels like the motor is lugging, that shaking feeling when you apply minimal throttle. If I had a clogged cat, I’d have no top end in any gear, right?
I’ll check the wiring, but all the grounds seemed to be good last time I checked. And to Fobwall, the engine’s running ok, just leaks oil like before. Btw, I did like 280 km’s to almost half a tank during the long highway drive. Yay, finally above 20mpg. I think replacing the knock sensor and eliminating code 34 really helped. Better acceleration too.
To impact spoon, I’m located in Scarborough, 5 mins west of Kennedy Commons, if that helps.
Damn, if you were closer Id come by and take a look at it for you. Its much easier to diagnose these gremlins in person. Oh and definetly go over all electricial connections that were don by this guy, solder and shrink tubing ftw.
this happened to my brothers cavy it was clogged and he was onlyable to do about 20kms took him 20 mins to get from his house to mine normally takes like 3 mins
^Please read the post, if the cat was clogged it wouldn’t feel awesome and torquey initially. I seem to have more problem at low rpms, especially in 5th, car shakes a bit on application of minimal throttle. Cat was replaced less than 2 years ago.