Passing the new emission test standards with '97 and older vehicles

SON240sx Automotive
1

I have no idea how emissions work and I need to get my car emission certified. unfortunately, the swapped KA has the EGR deleted.

So i’m not sure if the car will pass the 2 speed idle test. can someone who’s is certified in this field chime in on the details of this procedure?

from the past, I know people usually run 94 octane with the sure pass additive and drive it hard so the cat is nice and hot before the test. does this still apply?

Light-duty vehicles from the 1997 or older model year are not equipped with an on-board computer. These vehicles are given a two-speed idle test, where emissions of CO and HC are measured at “curb idle” and 2,500 revolutions per minute (RPM).

^ from MTO’s website : http://www.ene.gov.on.ca/environment/en/category/drive_clean/STDPROD_075681.html

the 2 speed idle test checks for:

CURB IDLE

HC ppm up to 200 ppm …

CO% up to 1.00% …

NOx is not measured at curb idle cause the Egr does not open at idle, or it will cause poor idle conditions, so NOx is exempt on curb idle.

^ is this true?

^ here is the link stating all conditions of the new emission programs, took it off MTO’s site

Also, I want to make this thread into an informative and helpful thread for others. so people who have questions about the new e-test standards can find answers here. So, try to keep unrelated topics off this thread

2

should be fine with a good cat.

3

ya i’m thinking to just follow the steps prior to an e-test like;
-use shell 91 or 94
-use the sure pass additive
-drive it hard before I go in.

4

High octane fuel is a waste of money if your engine doesn’t have a high enough compression ratio to warrant it, and sure pass is a joke. Just make sure you don’t have any vacuum leaks after the MAF, I only say this because you have your EGR deleted so I’m sure you’ve done other vacuum-line related work. Get it warm and go in for it. Good cat of course, and yes thats true that NOX isn’t checked at idle for the reasons you posted.

5

sure pass is just methyl hydrate…it makes your engine run lean i used methyl hydrate a couple time and it help just go to the paint section and u can buy it for 1/10th the price of sure pass

6

I’ve read 100% isoproylalcohol works as well. just to clean out all the crud from the engines

7

The check engine light is the biggest caveat… even if your emissions are clean a CEL will fail you regardless (in theory)

Of course if you go to a trusted shop that will ignore that wee tidbit, you’re fine