[PICTURES PG2] winter is coming, HELP ME PLAN BUILD!

Canada Nissan Automotive
1

SO! All you pros outthere, I need some help with my build. What I am trying to do is budget.

So… the prices are just speculation, this is the very start of my planning proccess, of course, parts are changed as I find new, better, cheaper parts. Most of the prices are from autodream, but Im sure I could find this stuff cheaper elsewhere. Im thinking EBAY stores, but im worried about getting fake shit.

Anyways!

My car is a 1991 black coupe. Fully loaded, non hicas, vlsd.

Wanted: Drifter-ish car, not a serious track beast, but something thats fun, but can be daily on the street in the summer. Not a huge masher ass turbo, something small, will probably stick with stock, want quick spooling.

Parts so far:
Front and rear strut bars
short shifter

Wanted:
Snail
errm… sr20 specifically

Parts and Price:
SR20 Redtop - 1800 - from jdm source, easier to find cheaper, but…
- Waterpump … 100
- Alternator - not sure if its worth it? price unknown, lets say 200
- Clutch, thinking spec stage 2 thick, or other, Exedy 500-1000
- Main and rear seals, when motor is out. 100 Tops

Turbo Timer - Blitz - 175
- Thinking about going HKS because all I hear is good things, dont mind getting one that I have to set, cheaper. Automatic set doesnt matter to me

Boost Controllor - manual - not sure on price, but I dont believe I need a 500+ electronic one, as im not going to be running sick numbers.

Intercooler - Megan racing small - roughly 300.
- Piping, garages13 told me like 2-3 hundo’s

Blowoff Valve - HKS SSQV - 400, I know its kinda ricer as shit, but I just love a loud ass BOV. I have been researching and there are cheaper bovs that work just as good and sound just as good.

Gauges - Boost, air fuel, dont feel I need much else…
-http://www.tein.com/defi/blue_racer.html I like the looks of these ones, but there not for looks, they have to work. But I assume if tein backs them, they have to have some quality. I was also thinking Megan Gauges, but i hear stuff about seeing them in the day sucks ballz.

Fuel - Walbrough pump - 200 or so, is it a must?
- SAFC? hmm… dont think so

Exhaust - Fuck… i have no clue even where to start. I do need one though, 500 or so.
- help.

Murphys Tax - 500
- Cause shit’ never works how u plan does it?

Total:4975, sound about right? There is still parts missing from the price list though.

Anything that I have listed that I can do without? Anything I didnt list that I should?
Im looking for some advice, so feel free to help me out.

I expect that price to drop, as I find cheaper replacements for all this. If anyone knows any good reliable websites that they have ordered stuff from, let me know. There are just soooo many, I dont wanna just try my luck with one.

Thanks for the help. If u wanna chat it up msn, paintball_scott is the msn.

2

those SSQV’s sell for different prices everywhere. fulblown told me 420 $. then matrix said 300 $. :roll:

3

How about just focusing on the SR swap if you want it. You will be supreised how much money a motor swap can consume. Look at it this way, SR20 swap installed with a FMIC and a BOV, running PROPERLY can easily run 3G’s and thats if you do alot of the work.

Get your motor in and running good then start thing about the other things

4

wow, 400 dollar BOV’s ?!

what a waste of fucking money.

5

I was thinking about just focusing on the swap. I know these cars were daily driven in japan without help from electronics and upgrades. But things such as an exhaust and bov and fmic are pretty much what I need to get. The rest of the stuff is just precaution.

Anyone buy shit off ebay? How do you know which shit is fake and which isnt? Because I know its not all fake, there are tons of retailers selling real stuff for a wicked ass price…

6

fullblown is a joke IMO :vom:

7

Be glad you don’t own a 300ZXTT then, where every mod you want to do requires TWO of everything not just one. The HKS SSQV “kit” for my car goes for ~$530-580 USD, which gets you two BOVs and the flanges for a bolt-on fit.

8

by the time you have your swap done your looking at this:

$2000 for engine
$500 for fmic (ssautochrome, pressure drop tested -1 pressure with a t25)
$200 re-wiring of harness
$50 intake filter
$100 for megan down pipe
$550 megan exhaust
$300 new clutch, don’t buy spec, go with an exedy
$150 all your fluids
$190 walboro fuel pump

------------total
$$4000ish

9

Good luck on that goal. To do it PROPERLY you are looking around 5500. Why not put some new seal in (rear main etc) as it is a 10 minute job when the motor is out but about a 5-6 hour job if the motor is in a car. And probably want to buy a new exhasut side gaskets and such.

The main parts add up to about 4000-4500 but it is the small things that add up, fluids, hoses, clamps, vacuum lines, and sooo much more.

Honestly in my opinion it is ALOT cheaper to buy a JDM.

10

For your intercooler, check out Yonaka, they have some VERY nice pieces for VERY cheap. A huge one will maybe run you $300-$380. I’m running a medium one with no problems, it cools very well.

11

oh SSQV … they so suck

12

Good luck on that goal. To do it PROPERLY you are looking around 5500. Why not put some new seal in (rear main etc) as it is a 10 minute job when the motor is out but about a 5-6 hour job if the motor is in a car. And probably want to buy a new exhasut side gaskets and such.

The main parts add up to about 4000-4500 but it is the small things that add up, fluids, hoses, clamps, vacuum lines, and sooo much more.

Honestly in my opinion it is ALOT cheaper to buy a JDM.[/quote]

ya mine was just a quick ball park. but i do agree with rob. get a jdm car, you can grab on for $7000ish

13

190 bucks for a walbro? i paid half that for mine brand new…

14

Thanks for the tips guys. I would buy jdm, its cheaper but I dont want jdm, i mean… I do, a silvia would be tiggggggght… But I dont want to wait, and I dont want a shitbox, if I was serious about a jdm car, I would call allan in japan, fly down there, and hand pick a car if possible. My car is nice, clean, bought it stock, and it was never bagged. Trust me, I got a good car. Heres a little run down. I bought the car off 30 or so year old guy, no kids, just a wife. Goes to church on sundays, very honest guy, this guy told me every possible problem that the car ever had. He told me things that he replaced when he bought it, over 100,000.

Plus the car had 4100rpm belt squeal, happened EVERY time without fail. If he knew it was happening, he would have told me. I mean, I found it out 5 minutes after I bought the car and drove away haha. It was obvious and he didnt know, so, he never drove the car past 4000rpm.

My car is clean, when you look at it, there is no rust you can see. Only a very little on the bottom of the rockers. But fuck, who cares lol. Its clean!

SSQV sucks? I havent really seen anything bad, but thanks for the tip. Im looking at other bovs but can you suggest one? I wish more people would post specs of there builds and stuff on here so I can get a good idea of what the local boys do.

I would like to do a complete rebuild on the sr20, but, $$$$. And I figure if I buy from a reputable source then I will be fine. Seals are a great idea, ill add that to my list.

Lorenzo, good list, thanks. Rewiring of harness? im going to be doing the work myself most likely. With help from a few friends. One thing I am worried about is the tuning of the car, it comes out running, but I doubt it will run perfect when you put it in. is dyno time needed? Thats one thing that pulls me away from the swap myself, someone experienced will be able to deal with all the problems, and get the car running good. This swap will be the biggest thing I have done, but I have a fair bit of car knowledge and garage time as well. My bestfriend is an apprentice mechanic but might as well be a journymen, smart as hell!

Thanks YALL!! :drinkers:

15

Rob is right when he says to do seals and things on the engine while it is out. You will want to hang yourself if something goes that would have been way easier to do out of the engine bay. But things you should do while its out i would say is exhaust gaskets, rear seals, clutch if you are doing one, throw out bearing obviously, oil filter, engine mounts if yours suck, but most seem to be fine. Also just do the bare minimum to get it running. Once you get it running, you know if it stops running or running well then its probably what you just added. If you add a bunch of crap then good luck trying to figure out what you did to screw it up. Good luck man.

16

Personally I wouldn’t bother spending money on a A/F Guage. Honestly they are not very help full. What you should really look for is a wideband O2 setup that has a display. AEM makes on that has a scale of LEDs on it like a regular AF guage aswell as a digital display. Or you could go for a cheaper PLX system that displays the AF ratio.

17

Thanks for the tips.

Exhaust, is it worth it for high end exhaust? Megan seems pretty good, i really like there products haha. They are affordable but still decent.

Things from megan I own and will probably own in the next few months
-front and rear strut bars(own)
-small intercooler
-cat delete
-sr20 exhaust

think I can get a sponsership? :partyman: haha

Im wondering about there BOVs though, im gonna go do some research.

18

If you really want that HKS BOV theres a used one for sale right now for less than 200…

19

Parts and Price:
SR20 Redtop - 1800 - from jdm source, easier to find cheaper, but…

Sorry for the double post, but you do realize on JDMsource that 1800 is 1800 USD. I havent looked at all of your other prices, but Im assuming theyre all CAD.

20

Really…

But you know how you meet a lot of people who say they can get an SR for cheap etc etc…
like a grand or so… doubt it would be worth it though.